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Monteraponi Baron’ Ugo 2014, Chianti Classico, Organic

Monteraponi Baron’ Ugo 2014, Chianti Classico, Organic

DSCF7168Monteraponi Baron’ Ugo 2014, Chianti Classico, Organic

12.5%

€34.50

Delightful fresh light Chianti with smooth dark cherry fruits, good minerality and a soft easy finish. Not a wine that will age, you would imagine, but drinking beautifully now.

We drank it with grilled lamb steaks with spinach and hummus.

I am told that the single vineyard Baron Ugo is usually bottled as a Riserva and retails for around €70. 2014 was not a great vintage, so Monteraponi downgraded it to a Chianti Classico and halved the price. A great label too, but apologies for my poor photography.

€34.50 from Sheridan’s Cheesemongers.

 

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Last weekend

DSCF7314

A very pleasant weekend, with two lovely light inexpensive Pinot Noirs and three interesting new arrivals from wine importers Vinostito, who know a thing or two about Spanish wine. A good hit rate; I reckon all of these will feature in the future, either in the Irish Times or on my blog.

Windy Peak Pinot Noir 2015 Yarra Valley

Very delicious elegant clean lively dark cherry fruits. At around €16.99 pretty good value too. This will feature as a wine of the week soon.

 

Safrà 2015, Celler del Roure

Grown high up in the mountains of Valencia, the local Mandó and Garnacha Tintorerra grape varieties make for a surprisingly light (12.5%) fruit-filled wine. Well worth investigating. Will sell for just under €20

 

Domaine de la Renne Touraine Pinot Noir 2015

A very gluggable light juicy Pinot with a slight earthiness that I enjoyed. Great value for money. €13.75 from Wines Direct

 

La Bicycleta Voladora 2015, Rioja

Apparently exclusive to 64wine in Glasthule, a delicious unoaked Rioja packed with succulent dark cherry fruits. Made by Germán Blanco, the talented winemaker responsible for the delicious wines from Quinta Milú in Ribera del Duero. (€16.50)

 

Vía Arxentea Mencía 2015, Monterrei

Missing from the pic above. I wrote about the white version least week. The red, made from Mencía, is equally good. Lovely refreshing red cherry fruits. (€17.50)

 

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Try the uncharted wine regions of southern Italy

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 18th February, 2017

For many wine-lovers, the south of Italy is uncharted territory. If pushed, they might remember Salice Salentino and perhaps Primitivo. And yet, these are some of the oldest vineyards in the world. The entire region is coming down with little known indigenous grape varieties, most of which date back to Roman or Greek times. Today we skim the surface of three areas, each with their own unique wines.

Our journey starts in Campania, the area surrounding Naples and Salerno, dominated by the Campanian volcanic arc that includes Vesuvius and Campi Flegrei. We think of southern Italy as being hot. Yet the icy mountain slopes back from the coastline here have one of the latest harvests in the entire country, producing some excellent, vibrant white wines. We will look at those another time; today the reds.

Backhanded compliment

Aglianico is often called the Nebbiolo of the south – a slightly backhanded compliment. It may be the most long-lived, but the wines can be tough, dry, tannic and austere in their youth, especially those from the most revered, cooler sub-region of Taurasi. Instead of fruit, you often find liquorice, tobacco and dried spices. There are other red grape varieties in Campania: Coda di Volpe and Piedirosso are two ancient varieties, both producing softer, easy-drinking wines. Piedirosso, the second most-planted red, is often blended with Aglianico to soften those tannins. As well as Taurasi, Aglianico is found in Taburno and neighbouring Benevento. The high limestone content and volcanic deposits are said to give that tannic bite to Taurasi. Others are more forthcoming.

Devastated by decades of emigration to the Northern cities and the US, Calabria is the most obscure of the three regions. This is the “toe” of Italy. The most important grape here is Gaglioppo – you can rest assured that most wine buffs have never heard of this grape either, but it can produce perfumed, warming soft wines.

Stiletto heel

Lastly Puglia, or Apulia, the stiletto heel and calf of Italy. This long, narrow region is responsible for massive quantities of red wine. Negroamaro produces rich wines with dark fruits and plenty of oomph. Primitivo, the same grape as California’s Zinfandel, can produce wines high in alcohol, tannin and fruit. Some, including the example below, can be sensationally good. Sadly, not all reach such peaks; I tried a host of semi-sweet soft wines that desperately needed an injection of character. Less common is Uva di Troia (or Nero di Troia) possibly named after the city of Troy, which produces wines that range from soft and fruity to full-bodied and tannic.

Anyone looking to improve their knowledge of Italian wine should buy the newly released The Modern History of Italian Wine, edited by Walter Filiputti (Skira), a fascinating, unique look at the development of Italian wines over the last 50 years.

 

ImageSavuto Rosso DOC 2014, Colacino, Calabria

13%

€16.99

Moreish clean ripe blackberry and red cherry fruits

Stockists: Corkscrew; Green Man Wines; Blackrock Cellar; Wineonline.ie

 

 

 

DSCF7266Il Cancelliere Aglianico 2014, IGT Campania

14.5%

€18.95

 

Big powerful concentrated earthy dark fruits, with well-integrated tannins on the finish.

 

Stockists: Quintessential Wines, Drogheda; Atasteofitaly.ie; Morton’s; Hole in the Wall; The  Grapevine; Dublin 9; Martins.

 

DSCF6603Primitivo Lamie dell Vigne 2012, Masseria Guttarolo, Puglia

14%

€24

 

A delicious, full-bodied wine with intense ripe dark fruits, lovely acidity and leathery length. I love it.

 

Stockists: 64 Wine; Green Man; Mitchell & Son; Sheridan’s.

 

 

 

 

Bargain Wine

 

Image 1Le Vigne di Sammarco Uve di Troia 2014, Puglia

13%

€14.85

 

Smooth, medium-bodied ripe plum and black cherry fruits. Mid-week with pork chops?

 

Stockists: Wines Direct, Mullingar

 

 

 

 

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Eco Viognier 2015, Chile

Eco Viognier 2015, Chile

Image 7Eco Viognier 2015, Chile, (Organic)

13%

€13.95

 A very tasty refreshing Viognier from Chile; light and brimming with citrus and peachy fruits, this is a well-made well-priced wine.

With oily fish; mackerel, salmon or maybe sea bass.

Even inside its home territory of the Northern Rhône, Viognier varies from light and refreshing to rich and flabby. Get it right, and you get a combination of zesty acidity and luscious slightly bitter apricots and nectarines. However, cheaper versions often have very confected sweetish flavours. This is one of the better examples I have tasted recently.

Stockists: Searsons, Monkstown

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Illuminati Riparosso 2015, Montepuliciano d’Abruzzo

Illuminati Riparosso 2015, Montepuliciano d’Abruzzo

DSCF7210Illuminati Riparosso 2015, Montepuliciano d’Abruzzo

13.5%

€14.99

Very seductive smooth warm dark fruits, a touch of tobacco and a slight earthiness.

We had this with a spicy lamb dish (from Diana Henry’s Simple cook book) and the two went perfectly.

This is an old favourite that I hadn’t tried for some time, so I was delighted to find it is as good as ever. You can find plenty of very cheap Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, but usually it is fairly nasty too. Illuminati is one of the good guys.

Stockists: SuperValu Ballinteer, Lucan; Charlesland, Blackrock, Deansgrange, Swords, Rathgar, Sundrive Road Donnybrook Fair, Londis Terenure.

 

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Via Arxentea 2015, Monterrei, Spain

Via Arxentea 2015, Monterrei, Spain

Image 5Via Arxentea 2015, Monterrei, Spain

13%

€18.50

Refreshing crisp dry wine with plump melon and pristine green apple fruits. A perfect balance of crisp and soft that bites and comforts at the same time.

A great aperitif, with shellfish, or white fish – hake or cod. I had mine with hake, served with spinach and mussels in a buttery sauce.

Monterrei is a very small D.O. in Galicia in North-west Spain. Its neighbours, Rías Baixas and then Valdeorras, have grown in populrity for their excellent white wines. I suspect Monterrei will be next. In the warmest and driest part of Galicia, Monterrei produces both red and white wines, the red from Mencía. The white wines, generally a blend of Godello and Treixadura (Dona Blanca is also permitted), combine the richness of the former and the crisp acidity of the latter in a very attractive way. This is a 50/50 blend of Treixadura and Godello.

Stockists; Sweeneys, Glasnevin; The Coach House, Ballinteer; 64wine, Glasthule; Liston’s, Camden Street; Baggot Street Wines.

 

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Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains 2013, Robert Groffier

Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains 2013, Robert Groffier

DSCF7257Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains 2013, Robert Groffier

 

Succulent rich, lush dark cherry fruits, balanced perfectly by just enough acidity. Soft and rounded, drinking beautifully now.

 

With grilled duck breast and mushroom risotto.

I made this a wine of the week in the Irish Times but possibly didn’t realise then just how good it was. I tasted it early one morning, rushing to get copy finished. It was very nice, and well-priced. I Coravined it and tried it again the following evening when it opened up beautifully. Although a Passe-Tout-Grains, and therefore a Pinot Noir/Gamay blend, this apparently was made from 90% Pinot Noir in 2013. It is a dead-ringer for a high-quality Bourgogne Rouge, and excellent value.

Stockists: Greenacres, Wexford, www.greenacres.ie

 

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2015 Burgundy – wines to buy before they disappear…

BURGUNDY 2015

This is an expanded version of an article I wrote for the Irish Times on Saturday 11th February 2017, on the 2015 vintage in Burgundy.

Image

I worry about Burgundy. It produces my favourite red wine, and has probably given me greater pleasure (and at times heartache) than any other wine. But now supply, always a problem at the best of times, is getting worse. And more expensive. Interest in Burgundy from the Far East and elsewhere has exploded, with collectors willing to pay very high sums for the top names. At the same time, a series of small harvests has restricted availability. And now along comes the 2015 vintage, heralded by some as the greatest since 1929. Prices are moving steadily upwards, and quantities are even more limited than usual, 20-30% less than in 2014. A number of Irish importers are currently offering ‘en primeur’ offers of 2015 Burgundy, with more to follow later this year. This means buying a wine that is still in cask, only receiving later this year or in early 2018.

Image 5

I traveled to Burgundy last November with Liam & Sinéad Cabot of specialist importer Cabot & Co. The couple work with a range of exciting producers in Burgundy, so we had the opportunity to taste a wide variety of wines. While most people tend to concentrate on red wines en primeur, they also offer some outstanding white wines as well. In addition to their own wines, the Cabots receive allocations from other importers, including a few very good names. They are also awaiting confirmation of an allocation from Georges Noellat one of the most sought-after new stars of Burgundy.

There is no doubt that 2015 was an excellent year for red wines; leaving aside the hype (and there is no shortage of that) most are laden with perfectly ripe, succulent fruit, excellent concentration and good acidic balance. In a generally warm and dry growing season, the biggest danger seems to be low acidity, and an over-supply of sugar leading to high alcohol levels. In a region that traditionally struggled to ripen grapes (and frequently added sugar to increase alcohol levels ) this is an unusual problem.

Two warnings. No matter how good the vintage, poor winemakers can still produce very average wine. Buy from producers (and importers) you feel you can trust. Many of the wines below are available in tiny quantities, so move quickly if you are interested. If you cannot find afford to buy caseloads of wine, keep an eye out for 2014 reds – an underrated vintage for both red and white Burgundy, and if you should happen to come across any from 2010, snap them up; this is an excellent vintage. I would also suggest keeping a few euros for 2015 (and apparently 2016 as well) from the Northern Rhône, as well as exceptional Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) and Riesling from Germany. Having said that, I am certainly going to buy some 2015 Burgundy. Burgundy 2015 is being offered by Burgundy Direct, Cabot & Co., Searsons Wine Merchants and Greenacres. See below for comments on each offer.

Image 12

 

Cabot & Co.

According to Liam Cabot, “2015 is an outstanding vintage – it’s a vintage of pleasure and enjoyment and the wines will drink well from release, yet have the structure to age. Many are comparing it to 2005, but those of a slightly older generation also point as far back as 1949 and 1929. However there are a couple of things bear in mind. Firstly, it’s a ripe vintage which is generally good, but a few wines had excessive extraction. Those who emphasised freshness and fruit purity have produced wonderful wines. Secondly, there is quality all across the hierarchy of appellations – from the entry-level wines to the Grand Crus. Although prices are rising, it is possible to find classic wines that will deliver real pleasure at very reasonable prices. I suppose it was inevitable that prices would rise given the quality of the vintage and also the fact the vignerons now know that 2016 will be a small vintage – so for some it’s a case of “make hay while the sun shines”. That said, some producers have been a bit more in haymaking mode than others!’

Contact Cabot & Co. on 098 37000 or email sales@cabotandco.com for a copy of their Burgundy offer. Their others lists are available on their website, www.cabotandco.com My personal highlights from Cabot & Co were as follows:

Image 4

Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg

This is a great domaine, run by sisters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée Mugneret with their mother Jacqueline. Hard to chose here; all of the wines are impeccable, perfectly ripe and balanced, showing real elegance but with an underlying structure. I have no tasting note for the Bourgogne Rouge, but on past evidence, I would earmark this for drinking over the next few years, and the outstanding Echezeaux or Clos de Vougeot for laying down.

 

Jean Marc Millot

Jean Marc Millot, now aided by his daughter Alix, makes some beautifully understated wines with wonderful purity of fruit. I have followed the Côtes de Nuits Villages ‘Aux Falques’ for years (currently drinking the lovely 2010) and would certainly buy again. Of the other wines, I loved the fragrant, pure Vosne-Romanée, and the superb Echezeaux, but all are of a very high quality.

Image 19

Domaine Livera

The Fixin here is very reasonably priced and with its cool, crunchy dark fruits has what the French call ‘un bon typicité’.

 

Domaine Voillot

Not the most glamorous estate, but well-made wines at very fair prices. Liam Cabot tells me they age very well too. Here I enjoyed the a lovely classic reasonably-priced Volnay and an excellent Pommard Les Epenots that will certainly repay keeping.

 

Pierre-Yves Colin Morey

The intense and studious Pierre-Yves Colin Morey recently moved into a large new cellar in Chassagne. From a string of brilliant white wines, I would go for the elegant Saint Aubin ‘Le Banc’, the excellent Chassagne Caillerets, or the stunning Meursault Genévrières. To be honest though I would be very happy to have any of these wines in my cellar; they have an impeccable fresh minerality and elegance.

 

Burgundy Direct

Conor Richardson of Burgundy Direct is making his 25th Burgundy offer. He says ‘2015 Burgundy is an excellent, possibly an outstanding vintage. Though much hyped, much anticipated and certainly much sought-after, there is always the thought that perhaps ‘excellent’ and / or ‘outstanding’ vintages come around too often to merit such laurels. Skepticism is understandable in what has become an increasingly commercial world, but there will surely be no doubt that wine lovers generally and Burgundy lovers in particular can only be hugely impressed by this very, very fine vintage’.

From the very fine Burgundy Direct offer, I am a huge fan of Ann Gros and her wines, and I would love to have a few cases. I have bought both the Hautes Cotes de Nuits and Bourgogne Rouge before and always been very happy with them. But there is also Robert Chevillon, Patrick Javillier (excellent whites) de Vogué, Marc Colin, Vincent Dancer and Joblot, all excellent producers.

Nomad Wines

Ex sommeliers Charles Derain and Thierry Gillet import an excellent range of wines from Burgundy and elsewhere (see nomadwineimporters.com). Nomad Wines will wait until June to make his offer. Derain is however, very positive; ‘In Cote-d Or, the yields were quite small too, some areas showed a volume decrease of 20-30% compared to 2014. The grapes were absolutely healthy, beautiful to eat. Everything I had tried was outstanding so far, reminding me of 2005. The wines are coloured with a incredible balance and structure. It will take some time for the wine to settle. I have tried some super Bourgogne Hautes de Beaune and Nuits 2015 that will give some great value.’

Greenacres

Donal Morris reports ‘the reds are superb and certainly the best since 2005 and even surpassing it. They have a lovely purity of fruit, a luscious concentration and are very fragrant.  And this is right across the region.’ From their offer, I would head straight to Benjamin Leroux, one of the new stars of Burgundy, not forgetting Marc Morey, Robert Chevillon, Robert Groffier, Hubert Lignier and many more besides.

Searsons

Searsons of Monkstown also have a good offer. Here, I would head straight for Tollot Beaut, one of my favourite producers (the Chorey-les-Beaune and Savigny 1er cru generally offer exceptional value) and also to Comtes Lafon, including his excellent wines from the Maconnais. See searsons.com for full details.

 

 

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Get ready for the best Burgundy vintage since 1929

Image 19

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 11th February, 2017

Burgundy has given me more pleasure (and at times heartache) than any other wine. But now supply, always a problem, is diminishing and growing ever more expensive. Now along comes the 2015 vintage, heralded by some as the greatest since 1929.

Prices are moving steadily upwards and quantities are even more limited than usual, 20-30 per cent less than in 2014. Three importers are offering en primeur access to 2015 Burgundy, with another to follow later this year. This means buying wine that is still in the cask that will be delivered later this year or in early 2018.

There is no doubt that 2015 was an excellent year for red wines; leaving aside the hype (and there is no shortage of that) most are laden with perfectly ripe, succulent fruit, excellent concentration and good acidic balance. In a generally warm and dry growing season, the biggest danger seems to be low acidity, and an oversupply of sugar leading to high alcohol levels – in a region that traditionally struggles to ripen grapes.

Liam Cabot of Cabot and Co says “2015 is an outstanding vintage – it’s a vintage of real pleasure and enjoyment – the wines will drink well from release, yet have the structure to age. Many are comparing it to 2005, but those of a slightly older generation also point as far back as 1949 and 1929. Although prices are rising, it is possible to find classic wines that will deliver real pleasure at very reasonable prices.”

‘Incredible balance’

Charles Derain of Nomad Wines will wait until June to make his offer. He is equally positive. “The grapes”, he says, “were absolutely healthy, beautiful to eat. Everything I have tried so far has been outstanding, reminding me of 2005. The wines have incredible balance and structure. I have tried some super Bourgogne Hautes de Beaune and Nuits 2015 that will give great value.”

Conor Richardson of Burgundy Direct, making his 25th Burgundy offer, agrees. “2015 is excellent, possibly outstanding . . . Burgundy lovers in particular can only be hugely impressed by this very, very fine vintage”. Donal Morris of Greenacres reports “the reds are superb and certainly the best since 2005, even surpassing it. They have a lovely purity of fruit, a luscious concentration and are very fragrant. And this is right across the region.”

No matter how good the vintage, poor winemakers make average wine. Buy from producers (and importers) you can trust. If your budget doesn’t stretch to buying wine by the caseload, keep an eye out for the underrated 2014 Burgundies. I would also set aside a few euro for 2015 (and 2016) from the Northern Rhône, as well as Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) and Riesling from Germany. Burgundy 2015, including some of the finest estates, is being offered by Cabot and Co, Burgundy Direct, Greenacres and Searsons.

DSCF7240Côte de Nuits Villages 2014, Jean-Marc Millot

13%

€34.95

 

Lovely meaty succulent dark fruits, with a savoury edge.

 

Stockists: Grapevine, Dalkey; Cabot & Co, Westport.

 

 

DSCF7257Domaine Robert Groffier, Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains 2013

13%

€25

 

Bright fresh dark cherry fruits with a lovely succulent quality. Rounded and dense.

 

Stockists: Greenacres, Wexford.

 

 

DSCF7228Givry Pied de Chaume 2014, Domaine Joblot

13%

€35

 

Richly concentrated, with firm dark fruits and excellent structure. Drink or keep a year or two.

 

Stockists: La Touche, Greystones; Burgundy Direct; 64wine.

 

 

Bargain Bottle

 

DSCF7242Coteaux Bourguignons 2015, Joseph Drouhin

12.5%

€14.95

 

Light refreshing cherries and raspberries with a leafy touch.

 

Stockists: La Touche, Greystones; Jus de Vine; Grapevine; McHugh’s; Donnybrook Fair.

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The Best Off-licence in Ireland

First published in the Irish Times, Saturday 4th February, 2017

Blackrock Cellar: well-trained staff, free delivery and a vast and eclectic selection of interesting drinks

Location is everything, and not just for your property investment portfolio. Wisdom has it that a wine shop or off-licence should be situated well away from competition, the supermarkets in particular. It also needs to have easy access to ample free parking, enabling customers to drop in and pick up a case of wine. So what possessed Frenchman Joel Durand to start up Blackrock Cellar on the busy main street of Blackrock, with very limited parking and competition in the form of two large shopping centres, each featuring a major supermarket with a reputation for its wine selection?

Five years on, Blackrock Cellar is still there, boasting one of the finest selections of wine, craft beer and spirits in the country. Recently it won the ultimate drinks-business Oscar, the Noffla National Off-licence of the Year award. The premises first opened as a branch of UK off-licence chain Oddbins in 1997. When Oddbins ran into difficulties, its four Irish stores closed down, bequeathing the Irish wine trade a cohort of well-trained individuals, many of whom have achieved success elsewhere. Durand had been working at the Blackrock branch and knew it had potential. Prior to that, he trained as a chef in France, working there and at restaurants in Italy and the UK.

“At first, we were going to do just wine, but it didn’t make sense,” says Durand, “Oddbins had been importing quality beer and were always running out. So craft beer has been there from the start and has really helped us.” As for the supermarkets, he thinks they help each other. “SuperValu are not the worst neighbours,” he says. “I can’t do the big-label brands and they cannot stock all the small producers we do.”

It took a while to get the landlords’ agreement, but they finally opened in March 2012. Two months later, Durand contracted a flesh-eating bacterial infection from a small shoulder wound. “The staff in St Vincent’s were fantastic,” he says. “I made so many great friends there; the doctor is now my customer.’ Six months and 40 operations later, he went back to work.

So how does Blackrock Cellar survive? Basically by doing things the supermarkets can’t: having well-trained staff, a vast (450 wines, about 450 craft beers, and copious spirits) and eclectic selection of interesting drinks, free local delivery and a lively online presence. More than anything, it is a friendly, really well-run shop.

Other Noffla winners include Jus de Vine in Portmarnock, which won the Wine Specialist of the Year award for a record 10th time; McHugh’s in Artane, which grabbed the beer award; and Redmond’s of Ranelagh, which not for the first time carried off the Spirits Specialist award.

Three of this week’s wines were chosen by Joel Durand, while Julie Cullen of Jus de Vine selected the Vigneti Zabu.

Image 3Le Petit Caboche 2015, VDP de Vaucluse Domaine du Père Caboche

13.5%

€14.95

‘A baby Châteauneuf du Pape, with dollops of red fruit and warm, spicy flavours. Moreish to dangerous!’

Stockists: Blackrock Cellars.

 

 

 

 

Image 1Vigneti Zabu Il Passo 2015, Sicily

13.5%

€17.99

‘A rich ripasso style red from Sicily – a real winter warmer!’

Stockists: Jus De Vine; 64 Wine; Blackrock Cellar; Callans; Donnybrook Fair; Drink Store; Grapevine; Martins; McHughs; Red Island: Wine Well; World Wide Wines.

 

 

 

ImageCa De Frati 2015, Lugana

13%

€22.95

‘A staff favourite; floral, aromatic and full of ripe and vibrant fruit. Just great.’

Stockists: Blackrock Cellar; Corkscrew; Clontarf Wines; Donnybrook Fair

Deveney’s Dundrum; Drink Store; Fallon & Byrne; Grapevine; Jus de Vine; La Touche; Martins; Red Nose; Sweeney’s; Wineonline.ie; World Wide Wines.

 

 

 

Bargain Wine

Image 4Sangoma Chenin Blanc 2015

13%

€12.95

‘A cracker at the price – the label doesn’t do it justice; it is very nice inside. Fresh perfumes, crisp apples, pineapple and hay, clean and dry.’

Stockists: Blackrock Cellars; Bradleys; Leopardstown Inn; Martins.

 

 

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