Wilson on Wines

Blog

Home → Author: admin

Author Archive

A host of new Irish whiskies including one for €260

Posted by on January 31, 2017

ImageFirst published in The Irish Times, Saturday 28th January, 2017

On a wonderful, crisp, clear, sunny morning last December, I headed up to the beautiful Ballydowling Wood in Glenealy, Co Wicklow. There, I watched a 150-year-old native Irish oak tree being felled. The tree was destined to become an oak barrel, (in fact three to four barrels) used to mature and season the latest edition of Midleton Dair Ghaelach, the unique single-pot-still whiskey that is aged in virgin Irish oak.

Gabriel Fernández Rodríguez of the Madebar sawmill in Galicia was on hand to approve the quality of the wood, and to work out how many barrels he could garner from this tree, as was master cooper Ger Buckley, along with Irish Distillers head blender Billy Leighton and head of maturation Kevin O’Gorman. All three have been involved in this fascinating exercise for the last seven years.

The forest, sustainably farmed by Coillte, was one of the first to be managed under the Native Woodland Scheme, and part of the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification. Along with 11 others, the felled tree would go on a trip to Galicia, where Gabriel and his father would saw them into staves. Then the staves would be transported to Jerez in the south of Spain, to be seasoned for 15 months and fashioned into 250-litre casks, before being returned to Ireland some two years later. Back home, they will be filled with some of the finest old single-pot-still whiskey. All being well, this will become the third release of Dair Ghaelach. Each bottle will be traceable back to a specific barrel and the individual tree.

A few specialist off-licences still have stocks of the first release of Dair Ghaelach, yours for about €260. The next release is planned for later this year.

Irish Whiskey Magazine

Further whiskey news: Irish Whiskey Magazine, run by a group of very knowledgeable enthusiasts, is, I think, our first specialist publication about Irish whiskey. See irishwhiskeymagazine.com for subscription details.

Whiskey aficionados will soon be flocking to city-centre Dublin. We already have the Irish Whiskey Museum on Grafton Street and the Teeling distillery in the Liberties. They will soon be joined, in March, by the refurbished Jameson visitor centre in the Smithfield area of Dublin 7, followed by the Pearse Lyons Distillery in the renovated deconsecrated St James’s Church in Dublin 8.

In the meantime, I would be tempted to take the train to Killarney and the Irish Whiskey Experience to enjoy one of their 50-minute courses covering various aspects of Irish whiskey and how to enjoy it (see irishwhiskeyexperience.net for details).

While in Kerry, a visit to Dingle Distillery would certainly be on the cards too. Alternatively, the Kilkenny Whiskey Guild is a group of 10 establishments in the city, all of whom offer at least 60 whiskies, served by a trained bartender.

Image 7Redbreast 12 year old Single Pot Still Whiskey

40%

€59

One of my favourite whiskeys, and very well priced; dried fruits, raisins, toasted hazelnuts and coffee in a delicious warming spirit.

Stockists: Widely available

 

 

 

 

Image 1Teeling 10 year-old Single Cask Amarone Finish Whiskey

46%

€65

Deliciously richly fruity with raisins, toasted almonds and caramel. A limited edition made exclusively for O’Briens, using Amarone casks from Musella, one of their suppliers. It works really well.

 

Stockists: O’Briens.

 

 

 

 

IMG_2976Tipperary Knockmealdowns 10 year-old Whiskey

47%

€70

Chocolate, vanilla and butterscotch with a touch of honey.

Stockists: Celtic Whiskey and other independent off-licences.

 

 

Tags: , , , , ,

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

The problem with Dry January

Posted by on January 23, 2017

First published in The Irish Times, January 14th, 2017

I have given up giving up. I don’t avoid alcohol in January or November. Throughout the year, I try not to drink on Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday. I dismiss most research showing the positive effects of alcohol, but reckon that wine and beer have been around for more than 5,000 years, so a moderate consumption is unlikely to harm me.

I post my consumption online every week, and it usually consists of six bottles, enjoyed by two or more of us over four nights. Not all are empty either, but under current HSE guidelines, I am still probably drinking too much. The HSE advises no more than 11 standard drinks a week for women and 17 for men. For wine, a standard drink is 100ml. (35.5ml for spirits, and half-pint for beer), much smaller than the average serving in a pub, restaurant or at home. A measure often contains two or more standard drinks. Ely Wine Bars are one of the few establishments to provide a marking on the glass. Their 187.5 ml serving is a ¼ bottle of wine.

The HSE guidelines are for wines with 12.5 per cent alcohol; most wines contain more, and it can be challenging to work out how many units you are drinking. One (industry-sponsored) website explained that multiplying the alcoholic volume of a wine by 0.8 (the alcoholic density of wine) gives you the grams of alcohol. So 12.5 multiplied by .8 = 10 grams of alcohol in a 100ml serving which represents one unit. A 15 per cent bottle of wine (12 grams of alcohol per 100ml) has nine units, while a lighter German Riesling Kabinett might contain 6.5.

Three pints

Binge-drinking is defined as six units or more at one sitting. If, over the course of an evening meal, you have an aperitif, followed by a glass of white wine with your starter and two generous glasses of red wine with your main course, you are a binge drinker. Or if you consume more than three pints of beer or three glasses of wine on a night out. This probably includes a sizeable portion of the Irish population.

We already have the highest tax on wine in Europe, so pricing may have a limited influence, although alcohol consumption has actually fallen 20 per cent since 2002. What we need urgently is a change of attitude. Twice recently I heard radio presenters laughing about how we drink ourselves into oblivion on stag weekends and at staff Christmas parties. It was the usual boasts of “if you can remember it, you didn’t have a good time” and “how bad was your hangover”. I also heard a friend dismiss her teenage son’s binge drinking with a shrug and a “sure what can you do?” If we continue to think like this, no legislation or minimum pricing is going to make any difference.

DSCF7124Torres Natureo Delcoholised wine 2015

0.0% (0 Units)

€7.95

An alcohol-free Muscat that is the closest I have tasted to the real thing. A refreshing enjoyable drink.

Stockists: Very widely available.

 

 

 

Image 1Domaine de la Pépière, Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine, Organic

12% (less than a unit per 100ml serving)

€17.95

Light and refreshing apple fruits, with a wonderful zestiness.

Stockists: O Learys, Cootehill; Clontarf Wines; Hole in the Wall; O’Driscoll, Ballinlough, Quintessential Wines, Drogheda.

 

 

 

DSCF7152Vale de Capucha 2011, VR Lisboa, Portugal

15% (1.2 units per 100ml serve)

€21

Seemingly restrained with damson fruits, good acidity and a very attractive mineral core. Great wine with real character.

Stockists: Corkscrew; Gibney’s, Malahide; Redmond’s, Ranelagh; Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2; Blackrock Cellar.

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

Breaking Booze – its wine o’clock but there is a shortage!

Posted by on January 23, 2017

Dire predictions of future wine shortages make for good copy. The media needs a constant stream of stories and tales of hailstorms, late frosts, flooding and other random acts of nature help fill pages, online and off. A year or so ago, it was northeast Italy. I certainly haven’t noticed a great Prosecco shortage in our wine bars, or any massive price increases. If anything the opposite seems the case. As well as providing news, such scaremongering may help producers push their prices up a little. Generally I ignore these tales of alarm. If there is a genuine shortage of one wine, we are lucky to have plenty of alternatives from other regions, although when the stories are genuine, naturally I do feel sorry for the unfortunate producers who may have lost an entire year’s income in a few short hours.

 However, it does now seem possible that we are facing into a worldwide shortage of wine. World consumption has been increasing steadily over the past decade or more, particularly in the US and China, two of the largest markets. At the same time, production has declined, mainly in Europe, where growers have been paid to grub up vines. To make matters worse, France and Italy, the two largest producers, have suffered a series of small harvests. Further afield, Argentina, Chile and South Africa are all looking at a reduced harvest in 2016. Australia and New Zealand both saw increases, and are reporting high quality too, but this is unlikely to make up for the shortfall elsewhere. As it takes several years for a vine to become productive, and a decade or more to yield high quality grapes, it could take time to address the shortage.

In 2016, well-known names such as Sancerre and Chablis suffered from late frosts in April and early May, and parts of Beaujolais from hail. We will probably see shortages of these over next year. The harvest in Burgundy overall is 20 per cent down on 2015 with some areas suffering far more. The finest region of Burgundy, the Côte d’Or, has experienced a series of smaller and smaller vintages, affected by frost, hailstorms and floods. Prices for the top wines have rocketed as demand has increased dramatically in the same period.

More worrying in the long-term is the increased demand worldwide for the finest wines. Consumers in China, Hong Kong and elsewhere are happy to pay large sums for the very best labels. In the most sought-after areas, the scope for increased production is very limited. It is likely that the great wines of the world will continue to increase in price, and we will have to look elsewhere for our wine.  I will return to this subject again in the near future.

ImageViré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes 2014, Florent Rouve

13%

€20

Sophisticated textured green fruits, underpinned by subtle hazelnuts, with real depth.

Stockists: Marks & Spencer

 

 

 

DSCF7121Johann Geil Pinot Noir 2015, Rheinhessen

13%

€17.95

Charming free-flowing light supple cherry fruits. By itself, with salmon, tuna or pork.

Stockists: Mortons, Sweeneys, Redmonds, Wicklow Wine: Mitchells, Listons, Jus de Vine, Drinkstore, Corkscrew, Blackrock Cellar, 64Wine; Grapevine.

 

 

 

 

Image 2Langhe Nebbiolo 2014 G.D. Vajra

13%

€27.99

The friendly face of Nebbiolo? Floral and elegant with very approachable red fruits.

Stockists: Baggot St. Wines; Clontarf Wines; Fallon & Byrne; Green Man; Jus de Vine; Searsons; The Corkscrew; World Wide Wines.

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

The Best in Party Wines

Posted by on January 23, 2017

First Published in The Irish Times, December 24th, 2016

Its party time! If you are holding a New Year’s bash, now is the time to stock up on wine. Today, a last-minute look at less expensive party wines being offered by the multiples and independents in the final run-up to Christmas.

The sparkling wines below would be fine served as they are, but could also form the base of a seasonal cocktail – why not try a few drops of sloe gin? I have chosen lighter oak-free wines that are not too high in alcohol, perfect for sipping without food. Do remember to give your guests something to nibble on though; it will help soak up the alcohol. Make sure you have a few mocktails or other adult soft drinks for those who don’t drink alcohol.

Aldi have the ever reliable Crémant du Jura (€10.99), the excellent textured fruit-filled Lot 18 Baden Pinot Blanc (€13.99), and the pleasantly fruity Exquisite Fleurie (€9.99). Some branches of Lidl have stocks of two excellent Austrian wines, the Wachau Reserve Grüner Veltliner and Wachau Reserve Riesling (both €12.99). For a party red, I would take a look at the lightly fruity Cepa Lebrel Joven for a remarkable €6.99. If you need fizz, SuperValu has a very tasty Cremant de Loire (€15). For white, they have the Abello Albariño at a competitive €10, and for red either the Le Petite Perrière Pinot Noir (€11.99), the Rare Vineyards Malbec (€10) or the softly fruity Goichot Fleurie (€12). Tesco has an exceptional own-label Prosecco for €17.99, a decent South African Chenin Blanc for just €7, as well as the Viñas del Rey Albariño for €12.65,

Marks & Spencer have the delicious Mâcon Villages Blanc (€14.80) and Craft 3 Chenin Blanc (€15). For red wines, chose from the Sapin Beaujolais (€12), Old Vine Tempranillo (€11) and the warming Chateau Triniac Latour de France for €14. O’Briens offer the Viña Vedra Albariño (€12.95) and the great value fruit-filled Les Beauchamp Viognier Blanc for €10.

I have mentioned it before but the Pouilly-Fumé Domaine de Bel Air (€16.95) is a very tasty sophisticated Sauvignon Blanc. For a really good sparkling wine go for the L’Extra par Langlois (€17.95) and for red wine, the Leyda Pinot Noir Reserva (€11.95) and Begude Pinot Noir (€14.95) are both very keenly priced. The La Vieille Capitelle (€10) will suit those on a tight budget, as will the ever popular Porta 6 (€10).

Moving upmarket, Whelehan’s Wines have taken delivery of a delicious delicate dry Sancerre rosé (€19.95) that would be a wow at a posh drinks party.  They also stock the Godello Luna Beberide (€19.95) that would make a welcome change from yet more Sauvignon Blanc, and a very attractive red Sancerre (€19.95), made from Pinot Noir, to complete the range. Their Champagne from Bénard-Pitois, is utterly reliable.

Most independents will have stocks of the National Off-Licence Association (Noffla) award-winning Adega de Pegöes white (€14.99), and the Albizu Tempranillo (€12-€13) offers amazing value for money. Lastly if you want to push the boat out, the Noffla award-winning Champagne Louis Roederer (€60) will go down a treat. Happy Christmas!

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

Specialist Retailers at risk

Posted by on January 22, 2017

The Public Health (Alcohol) Bill currently working its way through the Oireachtas could have profound effects on the way we drink. Minimum pricing makes some sense to me, although a ban on below-cost selling might be more effective. However, we already have some of the most expensive alcohol in Europe, so obviously price alone will not curb excessive drinking. Many of those creating mayhem in our urban centres every weekend will have paid very high prices for their late-night drinks and it certainly hasn’t prevented them bingeing.

The Bill does not propose to limit the number of outlets that can sell alcohol. I am uneasy that my local garage sells a range of wine, beer and spirits alongside petrol. If alcohol is so dangerous, surely its sale should be limited, or confined to specialists? If it works, I would certainly welcome the proposed restrictions on the constant barrage of dubious special offers on alcohol in our supermarkets.

The proposal to have a label on the back listing the alcoholic strength in grams as well as the calorie content, alongside other health warnings may sound good but actually could severely restrict the import of quality wine while leaving the cheaper stuff untouched.

Big producers typically ship a large consignment of a single wine so it should be relatively easy for them to affix a unique back label for the Irish market. For small artisan producers who make tiny quantities of multiple wines, and small quality importers who import these wines, it would be a nightmare. For instance, medium-sized importer Tindal & Co import 1,070 different wines from 125 producers. Imagine trying to deal with a small 100 case delivery of 10 different wines, opening each case, removing every bottle to attach a unique back label depending on the alcoholic strength and calories of the wine. Multiply this by a hundred and it simply isn’t possible. This could mean the disappearance of the most interesting wines from this country, and possibly a few importers too.

Under the legislation, retailers will be required to separate alcohol from all other products. Again, this seems a sensible idea, and should be relatively easy for large supermarkets with plenty of space. But many of the small specialist off-licences and wine shops also offer cheeses, charcuterie, and other foods alongside their wines. As things stand, they will have to cordon their wine off so that it cannot be seen from the food section. Our specialist retailers, already under severe pressure from the multiples, and hardly the cause of our alcohol problems, will be put under huge additional pressure.

I continue to believe that most of us consume alcohol in a way that does not seriously damage our health. I am in favour of anything that encourages us to drink sensibly, and to think differently about alcohol.  It remains to be seen whether this bill will do that, or simply demonise the intelligent drinker. jwilson@irishtimes.com

Image 2Vin Rouge, Vin de France

12%

€18.85

A lovely light juicy Gamay from natural winemaker Clos de Tue-Boeuf in the Loire valley.

Stockists: Bradley’s, Cork; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Green Man; Corkscrew.

 

 

 

 

DSCF7174Syrah d’Ogier 2014, Vin de France

12.5%

€21.95

Truly satisfying elegant savoury dark cherry fruits;

Stockists: Searsons, Monkstown; McCambridges, Galway; 64wine, Glasthule; Donnybrook Fair.

 

 

 

 

DSCF7049Dâo 201 Rui Reguinga, Portugal

13.5%

€24.50

Absolutely delicious wine. Elegant supple dark cherry fruits, concentrated and rounded with good acidity. Loved it.

Stockists: Terroirs, Donnybrook

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tags:

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

CHRISTMAS DAY SORTED

Posted by on December 23, 2016
CHRISTMAS DAY SORTED

This year, I intend going magnum where possible on Christmas Day. See below for the plan, and please excuse the poor image.

DSCF7143

Bollinger Special Cuvée (Magnum)

For many years, I received a magnum of Bollinger every Christmas from the late Pat Byrne, a friend and colleague in the wine trade. He is greatly missed. The magnum was my fee giving a wine talk to the members of the National Yacht Club in Dun Laoghaire, a very nice bunch of people. I would put the magnum away for a year, sometimes two, before opening it up on Christmas morning. This is my final bottle, so I will drink a special toast to Pat, who loved his Christmas dinner. The Champagne should be pretty good too.

Calvarino 2013, Soave, Pieropan (Magnum)

I have been eying this up in my local wines shop, La Touche Wines for the last year or more. I am a huge fan of Pieropan, one of the great white producers of Italy, and have a number of bottles of Calvarino stashed away; it matures beautifully. This one won’t get the chance to age gracefully. It might be a bit light for the seafood – prawn salad I think, but I doubt it. In any case, it will be light and elegant with a mere 12.5% alcohol, keeping everyone sober for the moment.

Viognier de Rosine 2014, Stephane Ogier, Vdp des Collines Rhodanniennes

In case that isn’t quite enough, I will chill a bottle of this wine from Stephane Ogier, also responsible for the wine below. This is made from vines located just outside Condrieu, home to the greatest Viognier in the world, which explains its lowly Vin de Pays status. I have written about the wine before, and it appears in Wilson on Wine 2017. It will provide an interesting contrast to the Soave, although it has the same 12.5% alcohol, less than in most Condrieu.

Côte Rôtie 2010, M&S Ogier (Magnum)

Stephane Ogier is one of the bright stars of the Northern Rhône and 2010 a very good vintage. Possibly a little young, but I will decant it into my magnum decanter, which up until now, has only been used for mere bottles. This was a thank you gift a couple of years ago. I am really looking forward to this.

Clos des Papes 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Magnum)

I am not sure we will need it, but I will have this standing up as a fall-back. A wine with an incredible reputation, from the amazing fine wine room at Jus de Vine in Portmarnock. I last tried this a few years ago down in Kelly’s Resort Hotel, at a tasting tutored by Vincent Avril, the owner of Clos des Papes, and brother-in-law of Bill Kelly. Back then it was very very good, but closed. We shall see.

Quinta do Noval 1970 Vintage Port

I intended opening up a bottle of Fonseca 1970 bought in the 1980’s, when I worked with Mitchell & Son, then located in Kildare Street. I think I have drunk two so far, but there is no rush with vintage port. However, I wasn’t able to get to my cellar, which is located in a (trustworthy) friend’s house, so I will open up this Noval 1970 instead. Some online reviews are very lukewarm, but we shall see. I have plenty of alternatives, including a few nice bottles of sherry.

Ch. Coutet 1989, Barsac (1/2 bottle)

I have a diminishing pile of ½ bottles of assorted Sauternes from my time in Searsons, so I intend opening up my last ½ bottle of this, to drink over a few days.

 

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Posted in: Blog

Leave a Comment (0) →

Dessert Wines For Christmas

Posted by on December 19, 2016

First published in The Irish Times, December 20th, 2016

If you still have room for Christmas pudding after the turkey, tawny or vintage character port compliment it very well; all of those spices and dried fruits work perfectly together. I will certainly crack open a bottle of vintage port on Christmas Day and, in the unlikely event that it is not finished, I will polish it off over the next few days. However, I am not a great fan of sweet foods, so I am happy to leave the pudding to others. Instead, I will also open a bottle or half-bottle of sweet wine and have a liquid dessert instead. A good dessert wine should never taste cloying; it is all about the fine balance of acidity and sweetness.

Many producers vie to make wines with the highest levels of extraction and a hefty concentration of residual sugar. This may be impressive at the tasting table, but such wines can bully rather than charm. Lighter – and often cheaper – sweet wines can be much more refreshing. They go really well with fruit salads and fruit tarts, both lighter alternatives to Christmas puddings, and blue cheese too. Half-bottles are a very good idea, as one glass is usually enough, and if your partner (like mine) doesn’t like dessert wine, a bottle might linger too long in the fridge door. I bought a batch of mixed Sauternes many years ago, and occasionally dip into my stash for a treat. An open bottle or half-bottle will keep in the fridge for a week or more. Moscato d’Asti is a simple but delicious dessert wine. Low in alcohol, it is exuberant, refreshing and sweet, all at the same time. It is possibly a little too light for Christmas pudding but goes really well with fruit salads and tarts, as well as creamy desserts such as panna cotta and pavlova. It is heavenly with some very unseasonal strawberries and cream.

Ice wine is made by crushing still-frozen grapes, leaving behind the water content.  Originally a German rarity, they are now routinely made in Canada. They have very high levels of residual sugar and acidity, but I find them overwhelming and enamel stripping. Aldi have a good example if you want to experiment. Sauternes, southwest France and Alsace are just three sources of good French dessert wines. You will also find some superb sweet Rieslings from Germany, Austria, Australia and South Africa.Vin Santo from Tuscany is delicious but very intense, and a 5 Putts Tokaji from Hungary one of the finest of all.

 Mitchell & Son have a fine selection of dessert wines in all price brackets from €15 upwards, including a half-bottle of Chateau d’Yquem 2006 for €284.99 if you are feeling flush. I have also recently tried the delicious Castelnau de Suduiraut (€32.99, half-bottles €18.99) from Jus de Vine and Wines on the Green.

My  bargain bottle this week is a bit if a cheat – it is a 1/2 bottle. It was too good to leave out and finding a good sweet wine for less than €15 proved beyond me on this occasion.

DSCF7093Petit Guiraud 2012, Sauternes

13.5%

½ bottle €18, Full bottle €39.99

Very attractive medium-bodied wine with light barley sugar and peaches.

Stockists: Mitchell & Son, chq, Sandycove & Avoca, Kilmacanogue

 

 

 

 

Image 4Max Richter Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Auslese 2006

€39.95

8.5%

Delectable honey and exotic fruits with a balanced long elegant sweet finish.

Stockists: Redmond’s, Ranelagh; The Corkscrew, Chatham St.; 64 Wine, Glasthule.

 

 

 

Image 1Viajra Moscato d’Asti 2015

€16.99

5.5%

 

Exuberant fragrant light wine with intense Muscat grapes on nose and palate.

 

Stockists: Fresh Outlets; Jus de Vine; The Corkscrew; Mitchell & Son; Wicklow Wine Co; Donnybrook Fair Baggot St. Wines; Blackrock Cellar; Martins.

 

Bargain Bottle

Image 2Ch. Jolys Cuvée Jean 2013 Jurancon

12.5%

€13.95 per ½ bottle

 

Delicious refreshing dessert wine with luscious pineapple and apricot fruits.

 

Stockists: Wines Direct Mullingar winesdirect.ie

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

Chablis 1er cru Vaulorent 2014, La Chablisienne

Posted by on December 15, 2016
Chablis 1er cru Vaulorent 2014, La Chablisienne

vaulorent€36 from Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; 64 Wine, Glasthule;  Redmonds, Ranelagh ; The Vintry, Rathgar ; Grape & Grain, Leopardstown; Clontarf Wines; Sweeney’s; Thomas, Foxrock ; Shiels, Malahide ; McHughs; Wine House, Trim.

A large certain section of the Irish population buy Chablis every Christmas simply because it is a safe recognisable name. Nothing wrong with this, although the cheap supermarket versions are not exactly thrilling and there are plenty of far more interesting alternatives. Unless you come across a  really good Chablis such as this one. Fresh and floral on the nose, with a fine racy minerality and lightly honeyed peach fruits, finishing long and dry. Wonderful wine, and perfect to start the Christmas fesitivites. Drink alongside smoked salmon, prawns and other seafood, but ideally I would like a half-dozen oysters.

Tags: , ,

Posted in: Top Drop

Leave a Comment (0) →

La Rosine Syrah 2014, Stephane Ogier, IGP Collines Rhodaniennes

Posted by on December 15, 2016
La Rosine Syrah 2014, Stephane Ogier, IGP Collines Rhodaniennes

DSCF7140€31.95 from Searsons, Monkstown; No. One Pery Square, Limerick; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock.

 

Stephane Ogier produces some of the finest Côte Rôtie and other wines in the Northern Rhône. This is one of his less expensive wines, made from vineyards outside of the more glamorous appellations. It is a beautifully elegant wine (12.5% alcohol) with savoury dark cherry fruits on nose and palate. Ready to drink now, this is an impeccably balanced wine. Try it with turkey if you wish, but it would also go nicely with goose or pork dishes.

Tags: , , , , ,

Posted in: Top Drop

Leave a Comment (0) →

My Top Ten Red Wines under €20 for 2016

Posted by on December 14, 2016

This post came about as a result of a challenge set by a Twitter follower; to name my top five red wines for under €20. I have expanded it out here to ten wines. All have appeared in the Irish Times or on my blog before, and many in Wilson on Wine 2017, but I thought it might be good to see them all together. Doubtless they will change soon. In the meantime I have bought myself six bottles each of the Dâo, Geil Pinot, and Roka for drinking over the next few months.

 

 

DSCF7103Albizu Tempranilllo 2015, VdT de Castilla, Spain

 

I have a weakness for unoaked (or very lightly oaked) Rioja. I love the lively aroma, the pure cherry fruits and the refreshing acidity. Here they come together in an easy-drinking but sophisticated wine, great for sipping alone or for drinking with a variety or red and white meats. This example, made by a Rioja producer, from grapes grown within the region, doesn’t actually have the name Rioja on the label, but it certainly tastes like it. Worth buying in quantity for the season ahead.

 

€11.95-€12.95 from Mitchell & Son; Avoca Rathcoole; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Baggot St wines; Blackrock Cellar; Corkscrew; Fallon & Byrne; Listons; MacGuinness; Green Man; 64 Wines; World Wide Wines.

 

 

Sa de Baixo 2014Sa de Baixo 2014, Douro, Portugal       

 

This has been one of my go-to wines for a few years now, and I know I am not alone; many of our independent wine shops do a brisk trade with it. The label has changed recently, but the wine is just as good . Succulent ripe red fruits with a smooth tannin-free finish. Light harmonious and very quaffable. A good all-rounder to drink by itself or with white meats – creamy chicken with pasta sounds good.

 

€13.50 from Mortons, Ranelagh; McHughs; Blackrock Cellar; Gibneys, Malahide; Avoca Rathcoole; Wicklow Wine Co.; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Baggot St Wines; DrinkStore, D7; Martins, Fairview; Browns Vineyard, Portlaoise; Red Island, Skerries; Probus, Fenian St; Sweeneys, Glasnevin; 64 Wine, Glasthule.

 

 

DSCF6516Borsao Garnacha Seleccíon, Campo de Borja, 2015, Spain

 

The label is fairly dazzling, and so is the wine. The Campo de Borja region produces large quantities of big ripe warming red wines, usually made from Garnacha. This is a warm hug of a wine. 14.5% alcohol, it is big, rounded and ripe with soft spicy strawberry fruits and a very decent supple finish. Fantastic value for money. Perfect for barbecues and other red meats.

 

 

€13.95 from Bradleys, Cork; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Next Door, Arklow; Searsons.com & Searsons Monkstown; Drinkstore, D7.

 

 

DSCF7060Acón Joven 2014, Ribera del Duero, Spain

 

A world away from the big tannic oaky monsters that once made up most of Ribera del Duero. This unoaked ‘young’ wine has forward floral aromas and delicious pure damson fruits. It packs a fair punch too, coming in at 14.5%, but you would hardly know it. Great value for money and perfect with roast lamb and beef.

 

€14.50 Red Island Wines; 64 Wine; Wicklow Wine Co; Clontarf Wines; Listons, Camden St.

 

 

 

Domaine des NuguesDomaine des Nugues, Beaujolais Villages 2014, France    

 

Beaujolais is finally coming back into fashion as we seek wines that are lighter in style. I spent a few lovely days in the region earlier this year, tasting the various crus. I also visited this estate. This wine is one of the best, and certainly superior to many of the cheap Fleurie you will come across in the shops. Wonderful aromas and pure sweet red cherry and blackcurrant fruits with a touch of liquorice. Patés, cheese and all things porcine, including belly of pork, ham and boiled bacon, as well as roast chicken.

 

€16.75 from Martin’s, Fairview; 64 Wine, Glasthule.

 

 

 

Roka BlaufränkischRoka Blaufränkisch 2015, Stajerska, Slovenia

 

Made by Irish couple Sinéad & Liam Cabot from their own grapes, both this and their equally delicious white Šipon are really good wines, and quite amazing for a first real effort after a few limited releases. The Blaufränkisch is a true vin de soif, with fresh supple cherry and damson fruits, but that really does it a disservice; this is a wine with plenty of depth and concentration. Well worth seeking out.

 

€16.99 from Cabot & Co;, Westport; No.1 Pery Square, Limerick; Grapevine, Dalkey; The Poppyseed, Clarinbridge; McCambridges, Galway.

 

 

 

DSCF6122Dâo Rótulo 2015, Niepoort, Portugal

 

If your tastes run to rich full-bodied reds, stay away from this wine. It is a delicious refreshing light red with a savoury edge to the clean damson fruits. Moreish, and with a mere 12.5% alcohol, you don’t have to deny yourself.

 

€16.99 from Redmonds, Mortons, Martins,Jus de vine, Green Man, Donnybrook Fair, Clontarf Wines, Blackrock Cellar and Baggot Street Wines

 

 

 

DSCF7121Geil Pinot Noir 2015, Rheinhessen

 

Charming free-flowing light supple sweet cherry fruits with a nice kick of acidity. Try it with salmon, tuna or pork. I have tried this several times in wine bars recently, including La Touche and Grapevine in Dalkey. It seems to suit all tastes, and is light enough be drunk without food.

 

€16.95-17.95 from La Touche; Grapevine; Mortons; Sweeneys; Redmonds; Wicklow Wine Co; Mitchell & Son; Listons; Jus de Vine; Drinkstore; Corkscrew; Blackrock Cellar; 64Wine.

 

 

 

DSCF5905Ch. Pey-Bonhomme Les-Tours 2012, Blaye – Côtes de Bordeaux, France

This was a really enjoyable wine, classic Bordeaux, with clean blackcurrant fruits, a seam of acidity running through, and a light dry tannic bite on the finish. I had mine with a roast shoulder of pork (Tamworth, from ethicalpork.com, excellent) and it was very good. I suspect it would be even better with lamb. Affordable well-made Bordeaux.

€19 from Green Man Wines, Terenure; 64Wine, Glasthule; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street; Clontarf Wines; Mortons, Ranelagh.

 

 

 

 

 

Quite 2014 BierzoQuite 2014 Bierzo, Veronica Ortega

 

Medium-bodied and perfumed with fresh clean dark fruits; delicious, but if I was feeling flush I would go for Ortega’s Roc (at €30). I have been on a big Mencía kick for the last few years. I still love the Castro Valtuillé Joven, and the Brezo de Grégory Pérez, both widely available from independents, but I have really enjoyed this several times at home over the last eight months.

 

€19.50 from 64wine, Glasthule; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Blackrock Cellars; Clontarf Wines; Drinkstore, D7;

 

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Posted in: Blog

Leave a Comment (0) →
Page 24 of 68 «...10202223242526...»