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A Weekend’s Drinking 12th December

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Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2014, Mosel

From one of the finest producers in the Mosel, a delicious vibrant wine, with developing honeycomb to add to the green apple and pear. Excellent acidity keeps it fresh and interesting . 11.5% Vol. The perfect alternative to Champagne on Christmas morning? Imported by Tindal.

 

Mâcon Villages 2014, Nicolas Maillet

Very attractive well-made wine with easy plump apples, a touch of orange peel and lemon zest. Light elegant and moreish. Yum! €23.25 from Wines Direct.

 

The Edge Pinot Noir 2015, Escarpment, Martinborough

Light fresh juicy Pinot at a very reasonable price. A posh party wine with nibbles, but went very well with or roast chicken. €19.95 from independents, including Searsons. Imported by Tindal.

 

Valdecontina Viño de Parcela 2014, Casa Aurora

A Mencía from Germán Blanco, who makes the most wonderful Ribera del Duero. From memory, this is from his grandmothers vineyard in the hills above Bierzo. Excellent , structured cool-climate Mencía with savoury tight dark fruits. Real concentration and grip. Sadly I don’t think it is commercially available. From importer Vinostito

 

Venus ‘la Universal’ 2011 Monsant Sara Pérez I René Barbier

Two names to conjure with here. René Barbier has been one of the most influential winemakers in Catalonia since the 1970’s; this is his son, who is married to Sara Pérez, daughter of José Luis Pérez, another hugely important figure in Monsant and Priorat. Venus is her project. Made from Carignan, Grenache and Syrah, this is her ‘attempt to interpret femininity, the Earth, through a bottle of wine’, according to her website. If so, she sees femininity in fairly powerful terms. This wine has fresh dark cherry aromas, plenty of body, although not without some elegance, with a strong mineral element that runs throughout. In need of food. Imported by La Rousse.

 

Vigne Vecchie Nerello Mascalese 2005A.V. Calabretta, IGT Sicilia

A family-owned very traditional estate, located on the black volcanic soils of Mount Etna. When I say traditional, the wines are aged for 6-7 years in large 50-70 hectolitre oak casks, as was once practised by most producers in Barolo and Montalcino. The vines are 70-80 years old, some ungrafted. The result is a wine with a wonderful lifted fragrance, savoury dark fruits and swinging dry tannins on the finish. My wife commented that it needed ten years ageing until I pointed out that it already had that! The next day, those firm dry tannins remained. A fascinating wine but choose your audience carefully. Imported by La Rousse.

 

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Christmas – The Big Feast

First published in the Irish Times, Saturday 10th December, 2016

 I covered Christmas dinner in the Irish Times Winter Food and Drink magazine in November. But for those who may have lost their copy, to reiterate, I would suggest a Pinot Noir, Syrah (from the Northern Rhône) or Shiraz, or Grenache to go with turkey. From Spain, a Rioja Reserva will do nicely, although I would be tempted to try a lighter red from Bierzo. I know many of you will ignore me completely, but a tannic Bordeaux is not the ideal partner for turkey.

Do start the day with something nice – Champagne is great if numbers and budget permit. A Chardonnay of some sort would be the traditional white option, and most work very well with a fishy starter and the turkey, too, if required. But this year, why not experiment a little with a Godello from Galicia in Spain, a Grüner Veltliner from Austria, or a Chenin Blanc from South Africa? All three offer great alternatives. A Soave or Vermentino from Italy would also do very nicely. However, I have a bottle of the Viognier, pictured on the page, stashed away for our Christmas dinner.

Roast beef is popular for post-Christmas get-togethers. A rib roast is a brilliant partner for most reds, Cabernets and Bordeaux in particular. Jus de Vine has the lovely Château d’Angludet 2012 for a very competitive €40. Alternatively, the delicious concentrated tannic Nebbiolo (below) would be fantastic. The wines of Viajra, from the same region are also worth looking out for in independents. Just don’t try them without food. Both Cabernet and Nebbiolo go very nicely with that other seasonal favourite, roast goose. If you are serving something sweet, such as red cabbage or an apple stuffing, then Pinot Noir or Rioja is a better bet. If you only drink white wine, go for a really good Riesling from Alsace or Germany, or a rich Pinot Gris.

Turkey curry is traditional in some households, and here I would go for a Pinot Gris or good Pinot Grigio, a Grüner Veltliner from Austria, or maybe a rich Garnacha from Spain. I like my turkey and stuffing sandwiches accompanied by a light refreshing Beaujolais or a Mencía from Bierzo.

A few last minute buys: Mail order company Wines Direct has two Chardonnays, the excellent Chablis Moreau 2015 (€23.15) and the delicious Maillet Macon-Villages 2014 (€23.25). Whelehan’s has the lovely rich Bierzo Godello Luna Bebride (€19.95) and O’Briens has the very keenly-priced Pouilly-Fumé Domaine de Bel Air for €16.95. I recently came across the very well-priced Fonseca Quinta do Panascal Vintage Port 2001 for €30 from SuperValu. I love the days following Christmas, when I open up random interesting bottles. This will certainly include a German Riesling Trocken and a good bottle of Amontillado Sherry, along with many others.

Image 2Pouilly-Fumé 2014 Domaine de Bel-Air

13%

€16.95

A very attractive well-priced Sauvignon with tangy green fruits and a crisp dry finish.

Stockists: O’Briens

 

 

 

 

Image 1Langhe Nebbiolo 2014, Produttori del Barbaresco

13.5%

€23.75

Delicious firm austere dark fruits; perfect with beef or goose.

Stockists: Select Carry Out; Cinnamon Cottage, Rochestown;

Terroirs, Donnybrook; JJ O’Driscolls; The Corkscrew; Karwig Eines.

 

 

 

Viognier de Rosine 2014Viognier de Rosine 2014, Domaine Ogier,

Vdp des Collines Rhodanniennes

12.5%

€33.95

 

Peaches and pineapples perfectly balanced by a cleansing acidity. Exquisite wine.

 

Stockists: Jus de Vin; La Touche; Searsons; Bottle Shop, D7; Green Man Wines.; One Pery Square.

 

 

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Aldi Exquisite Collection Limoux Chardonnay 2015, France

Aldi Exquisite Collection Limoux Chardonnay 2015, France

Image 4 €9.99 from Aldi

This is a lovely mouth-filling wine with rich apple and pear fruits, and the lightest touch of toasty oak.

Try it with salmon, smoked or fresh, or pork dishes.

Limoux is a small area tucked away in the foothills of the Pyrenees, a mere ten minute drive from Carcassonne airport, yet unknown to most of the Irish who land there.  Best known for the sparkling Blanquette de Limoux, the region also produces some cracking white wines from various grape varieties.

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Protocolo 2013 VdT de Castilla, Spain

Protocolo 2013 VdT de Castilla, Spain

Image€9 from O’Briens

An inexpensive light red wine with light dark cherry fruits and a hint of vanilla.

With pizzas, tapas and lighter dinners, or just by itself. It would make a great party wine too.

A perennial favourite with O’Briens customers, this is  a sort of not-Rioja; made by a Rioja producer with Tempranillo grapes grown outside the borders for the wine or from younger vines within. The label, once black and circular, is now white and oval. I cannot pretend that the wine will taste like the finest Gran Reserva Rioja; it won’t. But for €9 a bottle on current promotion, you cannot ask for more.

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Fossil 2013, Vale de Capucha, VR Lisboa, Portugal

Fossil 2013, Vale de Capucha, VR Lisboa, Portugal

IMG_4469 €16.95 from Green Man Wines, Terenure; Baggot Street Wines; Gibney’s, Malahide.

A light herbal nose, textured on the palate with peaches and a strong saline mineral element.

Drink with all manner of seafood.

Located eight kilometres from the Atlantic coast, the Vale de Capucha vineyards are maritime and humid. Pedro Marques aims for wines that reflect both climate and the limestone soils. His white wines are fascinating; textured and broad, with complex fruits. They are a world away from the aromatic Sauvignon Blancs that are so prevalent.  Warning: stocks are being eeked out as the producer has run out. Also available in Heron & Grey, Bastible, L’Ecrivan, Black Pig Wine Bar and other restaurants. If you can’t find it, seek out his other excellent white wine as featured in my blog of 11th March last.

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Guardoilvento Etna Rosso 2014, Italy

Guardoilvento Etna Rosso 2014, Italy

DSCF6789€26 from Green Man Wines, Terenure; Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, Dublin, Galway and Meath; Mitchell & Son, chq, Sandycove and Avoca, Kilmacanogue; 64wine, Glasthule.

A wine with amazingly fragrant aromas (worth buying for the nose alone) wonderfully elegant savoury fresh dark fruits, and a powerful finish. It has a fine-grained tannic structure that would suggest keeping it a few years, but I would happily drink it now. Brilliant wine.

Grown on the slopes of the world’s most active volcano. 100% Nerello Mascalese. Author John Szabo, in his great new book ‘Volcanic Wines’ says that wines grown on volcanic soils share ‘a common mouthwatering quality and savoury character….a sort of weightless gravity, intense, heavy as a feather, firm but transparent, like an impenetrable force shield of flavour that comes out of nowhere but doesn’t impose itself’. Sounds a little pretentious, but try this wine and you’ll see what he means.

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Roka from Liam & Sinéad Cabot

Roka from Liam & Sinéad Cabot

Roka from Liam & Sinéad Cabot

Sinéad & Liam amongst the vines.

Sinéad & Liam amongst the vines.

I have been writing about Roka, the Slovenian wines made by Irish couple Sinéad & Liam Cabot, for the last year or so. Earlier this year, I visited the ‘winery’ – a the garage underneath their house. True garagistes! See my blog of 9th July. Their wines also feature in my latest wine guide Wilson on Wine 2017.

Good to see then that Tamlyn Currin, on jancisrobinson.com, gives two of their wines, the Furmint and Blaufränkisch, scores of 17/20, higher than many top Bordeaux, Burgundy and other fine wines. The Laski Riesling gets 16.5/20.

Her notes are as follows:

Roka Furmint 2015

Riesling-like elegance, focus and rapier intensity on the nose. Pickled lime and ginger. Such a stunning depth of flavour that the hair on my arms stood up when I first tasted this. Salty and lime and wax and lanolin with the sweet-tang vibrancy of apricots picked straight off the tree. A little hint of green fig, and the ginger-root warmth (but not alcoholic heat) prickling through the palate. Rounded but so precise and with razor-edge definition. Cardamom-spiked lime peel lingers on the finish for a long time. (TC)

Roka Blaufrankisch 2015

Beautifully soft black-cherry and pot-pourri nose, so soft and lovely that you want to rub your cheek against it – if red velvet has a smell, this is it. Wonderful juicy intensity that explodes in the mouth with just a smoky hint of star anise and clove. Then a little crescendo of real biting spiciness – chilli and ginger and Szechuan pepper. Fine, tight, glossy tannins that fit the fruit like a second skin. Absolutely delicious. (TC)

 

Hats off to Liam & Sinéad!  All this for a mere €16.99 a bottle from Cabot & Co, Westport; No.1 Pery Square, Limerick; Grapevine, Dalkey; 64wine, Glasthule.

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A weekend’s drinking December 2016

A weekend’s drinking December 2016

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Aldi Exquisite Limoux Chardonnay 2015

Limoux seems finally to have taken off as an appellation, with several of the multiples now offering inexpensive versions. You can also find some excellent smaller domaines, such as Begude in O’Briens. This wine, made by the ubiquitous Jean-Claude Mas, has pleasant rounded apple and pear fruits, good acidity and a very subtle toastiness. For €9.99, excellent value.

 

Sartarelli Tralivio 2014, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

Sophisticated textured apricot and apple fruits with a touch of honey, held together nicely by a cleansing citrus acidity. Charming, stylish wine. The less expensive Verdicchio is also worth trying. £12.99/€18.75 from jnwine.com.

 

Rara Avis, Raúl Pérez, VdT de la Tierra de Castilla y Léon

Raúl Pérez has been one of the driving forces behind the renaissance of indigenous grape varieties in Bierzo and Galicia. Most of his wines are individual and brilliant. This wine is made from Albarín, a very rare local grape variety from Léon in northwestern Spain. It is not to be confused with Albariño. Developed wine (no vintage that I can see) with textured grilled hazelnuts and soft stone fruits. I don’t think it is commercially available in Ireland – mine was a gift/sample from wine importers Vinostito.

 

Silice 2014, Ch. Les Croisille, Cahors

Time was when all Cahors was firm and tannic. How things have changed; you can now come across plenty of juicy ripe wines that are ready to drink in their youth. Fabien Jouves seems to be one of the prime exponents. You can find his wines in Terroirs, Donnybrook and elsewhere. Marks & Spencer had a wine from Ch. Les Croisille for a year or two. This is a different cuvée, available from O’Briens at €15.95. Light juicy and fresh with crunchy dark fruits. Delicious!

 

Bourgogne 2014 ‘Le Chapitre’ Marchard de Gramont

Light, floral Pinot Noir with elegant dark cherry fruits and a slight earthiness on the finish. Good value at €19.65 from Karwig Wines in Cork.

 

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2012, Domaine Anne Gros

I bought this in 64wine, for around €35 I think. Anne Gros is one of the top growers in the Côtes de Nuits, with holdings in some of the top sites, including Richebourg, Echezeaux and Clos Vougeot. This wine is from a single vineyard, Concoeur, situated just above the village of Vosne-Romanée. I was a little disappointed at first, but this opened up nicely after half an hour. Pure fresh dark fruits, good acidity and clean length. Nice wine.

 

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Hot to trot: Warm cocktails to cheer up the jaded Christmas palate

First Published in The Irish Times, Saturday 3rd December, 2016

If you are tiring of the traditional mulled wine at Christmas, why not spice things up with a few different warming seasonal drinks? Some are so simple I would hesitate to call them cocktails, but all are certain to add some cheer on a cold winter’s evening.

Hot chocolate and Irish cream liqueur

I am not a fan of cream liqueurs, but I once used up an unwanted gift by adding a splash to my mug of hot cocoa. It was delicious. You have to use unsweetened cocoa powder or dark chocolate; drinking chocolate is too sweet. Drink with your loved one in front of the fire on a cold night.

Egg Nog

Traditional on both sides of the Atlantic. It can be made with cognac, bourbon, sherry or rum, depending on where you live and what you like. In this country, whiskey seems the natural choice. Don’t use your finest bottle here; a good blended Irish whiskey will do very nicely. You can add more or less spirit, or even serve it without alcohol. Egg nog is a little fiddly to make, although you prepare it in advance. There are those who recommend ageing it in the fridge for up to a week, but this might raise safety issues. A luxurious creamy cocktail that can pack a punch.

One litre of full fat milk, 225 grams sugar, 12 large egg yolks, 225 ml Irish whiskey (or more to taste) 250 ml cream. Whisk milk and sugar over medium heat until sugar has dissolved. Whisk egg yolks in a large bowl, then add the hot mixture in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over a low heat, stirring frequently for around 20 minutes until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Do not allow to boil. Strain into a bowl and add whiskey and cold cream. Cool and then refrigerate. Serve cold, garnished with grated nutmeg and, if desired, the whipped leftover egg whites.

Whiskey Mac

One of the oldest cocktails, but one of the most satisfying, providing you use good quality whiskey and a decent ginger wine. If you want to take it a step further, use a ginger liqueur (the Celtic Whiskey Shop offer several). Otherwise mix equal quantities of whiskey and ginger wine, adding ice if you wish. It can also be served hot like a toddy, by boiling hot water.

Hot Buttered Rum

A delicious and warming drink, perfect on cold winter’s evenings. 125 grams softened butter, 125 grams brown sugar (or 2 tablespoons maple syrup) 2 teaspoons grated orange zest, ½ teaspoon nutmeg, 125ml dark or golden rum, a litre of boiling water. Beat the butter with orange zest, brown sugar (or maple syrup) and nutmeg. Combine 2 tablespoons of the butter mix with 3 tablespoons of rum in a glass. Pour over boiling water. Serve with a cinnamon stick.

A Mulled Apple Toddy

This is a mix of mulled cider and an apple brandy toddy that I came up with one evening, although I am sure I am not the first to think of it. Gently heat a litre of good, fairly dry Irish cider with a strip of orange zest, or a slice of orange, a few cloves and a good spoonful of honey. The sweeter your cider, the less honey you will need. Once it comes to the boil, remove from the heat and add a generous measure of Irish apple brandy (both Longueville and Highbank produce very good examples) to taste. Garnish with a stick of cinnamon.

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Aldi Lot 18 Baden Pinot Blanc 2015, Germany

Aldi Lot 18 Baden Pinot Blanc 2015, Germany

Image 9Aldi Lot 18 Baden Pinot Blanc 2015, Germany

Neither of the German supermarkets offer much in the way of native wine. Baden, tucked away in the south-west corner of Germany, opposite Alsace, specialises in the three Pinots – Noir, Gris and Blanc, the latter known as Weissburgunder in Germany. All three can be very good. This Pinot Blanc is completely dry, full of luscious peach fruits cut through with a fine crisp acidity. At €13.99, it is expensive for Aldi, but still offers very good value.

Drink solo, or with lightly spiced Asian prawns or chicken.

 

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