Made from a blend of local grapes including Juan García, Bruñal, Rufete and Bastardo, this is a light, slightly pithy wine with mouth-watering crunchy ripe forest fruits, good acidity and finely etched tannins. I loved it and will certainly try it again.
€27.75 from WineSpark.com
I tasted a range of Spanish wines from online retailer WineSpark last week. It was an impressive line-up. I will cover more of the wines later, but today I feature one that I really enjoyed. I have to admit that I looked up Arribes on Google – it is a remote narrow region that follows the Duero River along the Portuguese border. Although vines have been grown here for centuries, it only received D.O. status in 2007. The main grape variety is Juan García and El Hato y el Garabato, set up by oenologist José Manuel Beneitez, who returned to his homeland with his wife Liliana Fernández.
It may just be the most perfect summer wine of all. Sitting out on a warm sunny evening, I can think of no other drink I would rather have in front of me. The words fragrant, charming, filigree and delicate are frequently used to describe the unique combination of fruit, acidity and sweetness that you get from a Mosel Riesling Kabinett. With age comes a rich (but never heavy) honeyed complexity, while younger wines usually have a seductive floral fragrance and fresh pure fruits.
Many younger wine lovers are looking for drinks that are lighter in alcohol. They don’t have a hang up about enjoying something with a little sweetness, and so worldwide a generation is turning to German wines. With an ABV of 7-11%, a Riesling Kabinett from the Mosel fits the demand perfectly, and sales are booming. While they have some residual sugar, they often “drink dry” or off-dry thanks to the vibrant racy natural acidity and delicious delicate fresh fruit.
The vineyards along the river Mosel rank as some of the most spectacular and beautiful in the world. Vines cling to impossibly steep slopes that run down to the serpentine river, giving way to green forests as it twists and turns. Every vineyard has been carefully mapped, and producers know where the ideal combination of slate soils and south-facing vineyards come together to produce unique single-vineyard wines of the highest quality. More sunshine and warmer weather means poor vintages are far less likely. Vines were first planted here by the Romans, and Riesling has been grown since the 15th century.
Like Pinot Noir, Riesling reflects the terroir, changing in a subtle and wonderful way depending on where the grapes were grown. Wine anoraks love to debate the differences blue, grey and red slate soils of the Mosel bring to the wine. Given the tiny yields and huge labour costs involved in working these vertiginous vineyards, it is hardly surprising that the best Mosel Rieslings are not cheap. But there are plenty of less expensive options too. As well as the wines below top names available in Ireland include Immich-Batterieberg, Fritz Haag, Markus Molitor, JJ Prum, Alex Pauly and Heymann-Löwenstein.
Understanding German label nomenclature is not always easy. Kabinett is the lightest style, made from grapes with the lowest level of sugar. Sometimes the wine is fermented dry, in which case it can be labelled Trocken or Kabinett Trocken, but usually it is off-dry. Germany also produces great dry wines, Pinot Noir and some of the world’s greatest sweet wines, but today I focus on Kabinett and other off dry wines. While they are the perfect warm weather aperitif, these will also go very well with food, including sushi, sashimi, prawns and lighter chicken and pork dishes.
Nicely balanced with smoky green apple fruits, good citrus acidity and an off-dry finish. Perfect on its own, possibly better with oysters or grilled sea bass.
From Dunnes Stores
Dr. L Riesling 2020, Loosen Bros, Mosel
8.5%, €14.99-16.50
Rich honeyed red apples and pears with good racy acidity and a medium-dry finish. A lovely aperitif or with Chinese chicken and prawn dishes.
Available from O’Briens, Select Mulloys Liquor Stores, and independent off-licences including Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; wineonline.ie; O’Donovans Wines, Cork; Martins, D3; McHughs, D5; Ardkeen Stores, Waterford; Redmonds, D6; Baggot Street Wines, D4; Blackrock Cellar; Barnhill Stores, Dalkey; Nolans, Clontarf; Dwans, D16; Bradleys, Cork
Max Ferdinand Richter, Elisenberger Riesling Kabinett 2020
8%, €24.99
Floral and springlike with intense opulent nectarine fruits, piercing acidity and a lovely lingering off-dry finish. Classic Mosel Kabinett, and a delight to drink. Enjoy solo, with sushi, prawn tempura or Thai Crab Cakes.
From Mitchell & Son, IFSC, D1 and Glasthule; Redmond’s, D6, Martin’s, D3; Blackrock Cellar
Maximin Grünhaus, Single Vineyard ‘Abtsberg’ Grosse Lage Mosel Riesling Kabinett 2020
7.5%, €39.99
Intense rich pear and peach fruits with a laser-like mineral streak. Off dry but wonderfully fresh and vibrant. Keep for up to ten years or enjoy with scallops, chicken salads, asparagus or green salads.
From Blackrock Cellar; Clontarf Wines; wineonline.ie; The Corkscrew, D2; Ely Wine Store, Maynooth
This article was first published in The Irish Times, 16th July, 2022
This week we return to lighter red wines to enjoy over the summer. Lower alcohol is always welcome, but so too is the lighter, brighter fruit found in wines with good acidity. We are approaching peak holiday season, so if you are planning a staycation, remember to include some summer reds alongside your rosés and white wines. I believe in buying local so if you have a decent wine shop close to your holiday destination, make sure to give them your business. If not, there are plenty of online specialists, and remember that most wine shops will deliver to your rental home.
The red wines of the Loire Valley are enjoying a revival; warmer temperatures mean the grapes ripen more reliably and wines are far more consistent than in the past. The two black grapes to remember are Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc.
I have always had a weakness for Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. Typically low in alcohol, with light, refreshing fruits and good acidity, they make great summer wines and (like Beaujolais) go really well with cold meats, cheeses and other picnic and al fresco meals. Less expensive Cabernet Franc can be served lightly chilled to bring out the fresh fruits and acidity. They have been very fashionable in Paris wine bars for years. More serious, expensive wines will happily mature for up to 20 years and take on the most gorgeous soft, leafy flavours.
Pinot Noir has always been grown in Sancerre and a few other regions of the Loire. Plantings have expanded but are still dwarfed by Cabernet Franc and Gamay. At one stage, most Sancerre rouge was a bit weedy and austere, but this has changed due to global warming. There are now some seriously good wines, often at prices that compare favourably with Burgundy. Sancerre rosé is well worth trying, too; the better ones are superior to most Provence rosé.
I also feature two more Austrian reds, both light and summery. I wrote about Zweigelt a few weeks ago, just before Aldi introduced the limited-edition version featured here. It is unusual to see Austrian wine sell for less than €10 in this country (although Lidl also has a Grüner Veltliner for €7.69, while stocks last), so this is well worth trying. Pinot Noir makes up 1.3% of Austrian vineyards but there are a few great examples available, including the Rabl Pinot featured here.
Whelehan’s Wines obviously shares my taste for the red wines of the Loire; the Dublin shop has a great selection. I feature two today. In addition, Le Caveau in Kilkenny, Terroirs in Donnybrook, and O’Briens all have a good selection of Loire reds.
Aldi Specially Selected Austrian Zweigelt 2021 Limited Edition
13%, €8.99
Nicely perfumed with juicy sweet ripe raspberry and strawberry fruits and a rounded finish. Try it with chicken kebabs, gourmet herby sausages, or stir-fried tofu.
From Aldi stores, while stocks last
Lena Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny 2018, Domaine Filliatreau Organic
13%, €20
Mouth-watering crunchy fresh redcurrant and dark cherry fruits with a lovely lightly tannic bite. Enjoy with all sorts of charcuterie, mild cheeses, grilled lamb chops or summer vegetables such as asparagus, broccoli, and courgettes.
From Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown, Dublin
Rabl Pinot Noir 2017, Vinum Optimum, Langenlois, Austria
13.5%, €26.95, reduced from €29.95
Light and juicy with concentrated dark cherry and plum fruits. Serve lightly chilled with grilled salmon, chicken dishes or dishes featuring goat’s cheese, mushrooms, and root vegetables such as beetroot and carrots.
From O’Briens
Sancerre Silex Rouge 2020, Domaine Delaporte 13%, €35 Gorgeous, pure soft silky dark cherry fruits that are so seductive. Voluptuous yet refreshing with real depth and concentration. Try it with grilled chicken or duck or a cheesy frittata. From Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown, Dublin
This article was first published in The Irish Times, 9th July, 2022
Time for a spritzer or spritz? The Italian classic is a great warm-weather drink
Spritzers and spritzes are hugely popular throughout the year but consumption really takes off when summer comes around. Generally lower in alcohol and drunk well chilled, they make great warm-weather drinks and are the favourite aperitif in Venice, Milan and other northern Italian cities.
The difference between the two? A spritzer is made from wine and sparkling water, a spritz from Aperol or some other alcoholic bitters or liqueur and (usually) sparkling wine, prosecco being the favourite, and sparkling water. Various legends exist as to how a wine spritzer was invented but the most likely seems in Hungary or Austria, where the newly invented carbonated water was added to wine to make a sparkling wine.
The classic, and by far the most popular, spritz is the Aperol or Veneziano. Once consumed exclusively in Venice, it has gained popularity around the world over the past decade. Aperol is an Italian bitter, made from various ingredients including gentian, rhubarb, bitter and sweet oranges and cinchona. It is a vibrant orange colour. To make an Aperol spritz, fill a very large wine glass with plenty of ice, add three parts prosecco to two parts Aperol, and one part sparkling water. Garnish with a slice of orange and serve.
Aperol was invented in 1919 by brothers Luigi and Silvio Barbieri in Padova. The Aperol spritz was created in the 1950s and soon gained popularity as a refreshing low alcohol pre-dinner drink. Lidl has Bitterol, a cheaper alternative, for half the price of Aperol, available for some parts of the year.
However, there are plenty of other options. These days, any mix of liqueur with sparkling water or wine can be called a spritz and the possibilities are endless. Campari, the classic north Italian bitter, is drier than Aperol. To create a Campari spritz simply mix Campari, Prosecco and sparkling water, or you could try a bicicleta, made with still white wine, Campari and sparkling water. Negroni fans can enjoy a sbagliato, made with Campari, sweet vermouth and sparkling water.
Consumers and mixologists are adept at creating new variants, using all sorts of ingredients including St Germain (elderflower), Chambord (raspberry), Limoncello (lemon) as well as various vermouths too. Basically, as long as it has something alcoholic and something fizzy, you can call it a spritz. Aperol is 11 per cent abv, so the classic spritz is lower in alcohol than many cocktails, but you can make it even lighter by adding more sparkling water.
Here are four alcoholic ingredients you can use in a spritz. Remember though that there are plenty of non-alcoholic spirit alternatives that you can use as a base for your alcohol-free spritz. Simply add sparkling water and maybe some alcohol-free wine too.
Luxardo Limoncello
27%, €22-24
Most of us will have tried limoncello in Italian restaurants as a chilled digestive. Made by macerating lemon zest in alcohol, it is fragrant, lemony and sweet. You can make your own with lemon zest, sugar and vodka. Limoncello is widely available. The Luxardo is from Celtic Whiskey.
Aperol
11%, €15-20
The classic semi-sweet bitter aperitif is made from a variety of herbs, roots and oranges. It has herbal flavour with bitter oranges and citrus, finishing sweet. Widely available in off-licences and supermarkets.
Campari Liqueur
28%, €20-28
Campari is more bitter and less sweet than Aperol, and is often drunk simply with sparkling water, fresh orange juice, or as an ingredient in a negroni. Widely available in off-licences and supermarkets.
Saint Germain Liqueur
20%, €32-35
A French liqueur made from fresh elderflowers, Saint Germain is floral and fragrant with sweet elderflower flavours. Available from O’Briens, Molloy’s and specialist off-licences
Made from a blend of two of Encruzado and Arinto, two of the finest white grape varieties of Portugal, this wine offers exceptional value for money at €13.95. Fresh peach and pear fruits with a really well integrated mineral acidity. Perfect on its own but better with lighter seafood dishes. We enjoyed ours with clam linguini. 13% €13.95 down from €17.25 in O’Briens
I have always had a soft spot for both the red and white wines of Dão. The best reds are elegant, refreshing and subtle. The white wines can be equally good, with concentrated succulent fruits and a lively acidity. Typically based on excellent local Encruzado grape, they have been compared to Chardonnay in style and I can see why.
First published in The Irish Times, 22nd June, 2022
To celebrate July 4th, here are some interesting American wines. Wine of some description is made in every US state, although the vast majority comes from California. Washington state, Oregon and New York state also produce significant quantities. Hats off to David Whelehan of Whelehan’s Wines in Loughlinstown, in Dublin, for importing a range of wines from New York state. I have included one of the wines here.
As mentioned a few weeks ago, you could also try the excellent Finger Lakes Riesling (Whelehan’s, €39) or the Washington State Château Ste. Michelle Riesling is very good value from O’Briens at €16.95. O’Briens, which offers a comprehensive range of US wines, also has a Syrah (€17.95) from the same producer.
California can take credit for introducing a generation of Irish people to wine. At a time when few people understood complicated French names, producers such as Paul Masson offered inexpensive carafes of easy-drinking wine, with labels written in English. Some even featured the grape variety — a novel idea at the time. The flip top lid meant no corkscrew was required, and once used, the carafes could be used to store pasta, rice and other kitchen staples.
Inexpensive Californian wine is still very popular here, but there are plenty of very high-quality wines available too. Sadly, many are eye-wateringly expensive. California has the fifth-largest economy in the world and a population of almost 40 million, so there are plenty of consumers happy to pay top dollar for the local produce. That said, the wines certainly compete with Bordeaux and Burgundy in terms of quality. The difficulty has always been finding mid-priced wines — those in the €15-€30 price bracket. From trips to San Francisco, I know they exist, but again most are snapped up by local consumers and rarely find their way to Ireland.
Californian wines have a reputation for being full-bodied, oaky and alcoholic, but not all are big and powerful. With more than 1,300km of coastline, and countless valleys and mountain ranges, there is a wide variety of soils and climates. Classics include rich, cassis-laden Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, fragrant exquisite Pinot Noir and elegant Chardonnay from the Sonoma Valley and various cooler coastal regions, and Zinfandel from a variety of regions.
Moving away from California, Oregon is famous for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Domaine Drouhin, Sokol Blosser and La Crema are all available here. In addition to O’Briens, JNwine.com has an excellent range of American wines, as does Mitchells.
As for food matching, full-flavoured Californian red wines go well with barbecued red meat, including burgers, steaks, and barbecue sauce, as well as vegetables such as peppers, and aubergines. Barbecued hot dogs and sweetcorn might be better with a Riesling, rich Chardonnay or a well-chilled American IPA craft beer.
Gallo Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, California
13%, €9.99
From the largest winery in California, this is a light wine with sweet plum and raspberry fruits, a touch of vanilla and a rounded finish. Try it with the July 4th barbecue — hot dogs, burgers sweetcorn and ribs.
From: Widely available from most supermarkets
Dr Konstantin Frank Cabernet Franc 2018, Finger Lakes, New York state
13%, €29
Medium-bodied with cool plum fruits, an attractive spicy, earthy note and fine-grained tannins on the finish. Try this with grilled pork or roast mushrooms.
From: Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown
Ridge Geyserville 2019, Alexander Valley, California
14.5%, €54
From one of the great names of California, this is a beautifully crafted full-bodied wine with opulent plums and cassis. There is a lovely savoury touch and fine structured tannins. Enjoy with duck, pulled pork or a very posh barbecued burger.
From: jnwine.com; 64wine, Glasthule; La Touche Wines, Greystones; Baggot Street Wines, D4; Blackrock Cellars; Terroirs, D4. Northern Ireland (£45): Crafty Vintners; The Vineyard, Ormeau Road; Kilkeel Wine Merchant
Journeyman Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2019, California
14.5%, €69
Rich layers of textured peach, pear and pineapple fruits offset nicely by some toasty new oak and a seam of acidity. For a real treat, enjoy it with lobster slathered with butter.
From: Baggot Street Wines, D2; Avoca, Ballsbridge and Rathcoole; Terroirs, D4; wineonline.ie
The article was first published in The Irish Times, 25th June, 2022
Known as Pinot Bianco in Italy and Weissburgunder in Germany and Austria, Pinot Blanc, which makes a light, summery white wine, is widely grown but rarely gets the attention it deserves. A less colourful cousin of both Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris (as in Grigio), it can make very good, occasionally excellent white wines. These days it is found mainly in Germany, Italy and Alsace in France. As an ingredient in sparkling wine, it is permitted in Crémant d’Alsace, Crémant de Bourgogne, Franciacorta in Italy and even Champagne. As a white wine, it tends to be light and refreshing with low alcohol (and therefore a great alternative to Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc), although in Austria it produces some deliciously textured wines, as well as some decadently rich sweet wines.
Most Riesling lovers go a little giddy at the mention of the name Maximim Grünhaus. This is one of the finest and most historic estates in the Ruwer valley, part of the Mosel in Germany, and responsible for some of the most delicate, exquisite Rieslings of all. There are three vineyards, the Herrenberg, the Abtsberg and Bruderberg, that produced wine for the choirmasters, abbot and brothers respectively when it was under church ownership. There is a small plot of Pinot Blanc in the Herrenberg, which produces the wine featured here.
Georg Prieler runs an organic estate on the gentle slopes running up from the Neusiedlersee in Austria. Here he produces an impeccable range of wines including some very stylish Sankt Laurent and several outstanding Blaufränkisch. However, the wines that really impress are his Weissburgunders. As well as the Seeburg here, he offers two superb single vineyard Pinot Blancs. While not cheap, I would rank this alongside great Riesling and Chardonnay produced elsewhere.
The Hans Baer is new to me, but is a great example of inexpensive Pinot Blanc. Aldi and Lidl offered a good well-priced Pinot Blanc last summer. Sadly neither have repeated the exercise this year. I featured the excellent Kuentz-Bas (€16.95/€18.95) from O’Briens earlier this year. Elsewhere Trimbach and Hugel both offer good versions at just under the €20 mark, and Mitchell & Son has one from Sipp Mack for €17.95. At just over €20, Meyer-Fonné, Zinck, and Ginglinger are all well worth trying too. From Italy, Wines on the Green have Pinot Blanc from the highly regarded Cantina Tramin, as well as Schiopetto. I am also a fan of Franz Haas Lepus (€25.50).
As a fresh crisp dry wine, Pinot Blanc is an ideal partner for all kinds of fish and salad dishes. The more textured style is perfect with pork and chicken dishes. Try Alsace versions with onion tart, quiche and flammkuchen, and Italian Pinot Blanc with lighter risottos and frittata.
Hans Baer Pinot Blanc Trocken 2020, Rheinhessen, Germany
€11.99-€12.99, 12.5%
Snappy fresh green apple fruits with a racy zesty citrus acidity. A nice aperitif, or with grilled sea bass or white fish.
From: Wineonline.ie; Cheers Gibneys, Malahide; Mc Hugh’s D5; The Vintry, D6; Martins, D3; Londis Malahide; No 21 Cork; Matson’s, Cork; Dalys; Redmond’s D6; Myles Creek, Kilkee Co Clare; Cove Stores, Tramore; Brosnans, Schull; Jus De Vin Portmarnock; Select Carry Out and SuperValu outlets.
Brisk and reviving with a charming perfumed nose, crisp citrus, pear and melon fruits, finishing bone dry. Try it with baked or poached salmon with dill.
From: Red Nose Wine, Clonmel; Martins, D3; Redmonds, D6; Wineonline.ie.
Seeberg Pinot Blanc 2020, Burgenland, Prieler, Austria (Organic)
13% €26.50
An utterly delicious wine with inviting gently floral aromas, followed by textured pear and yellow stone fruits that linger very nicely. Enjoy it with richer fish dishes, and roast pork or chicken.
A seductive light delicate spring-like wine with fresh herbs, thirst-quenching green fruits, and a crisp dry finish. Solo, with nibbles or light summery salads.
I drink Riesling throughout the year, but when there is no R in the month – that is, summer – my consumption increases exponentially. I am planning a trip to Germany, the true home of Riesling, and will report back. But in the meantime, here are four bright fresh summery Rieslings from elsewhere. Most Riesling is low in alcohol with enticing aromas, pure fresh fruits and a wonderful brisk, thirst-quenching acidity. It is all about fruit; if there is any oak-ageing, it is well-used barrels that impart no flavour.
New Zealand produces a range of high-quality white wines, including Riesling. Framingham is one of my favourite producers in Marlborough, and they make an excellent range of Rieslings, including the dry wine featured here. Elsewhere from Marlborough, look out for the delicious Greywacke Riesling and JN Wine has the very good Doctor’s Riesling from Forrest for a reasonable €17.50, as well as the Felton Road Dry Riesling.
Australia might not seem the obvious place to grow a cool-climate grape, but Riesling has a long and noble tradition going back to the mid-19th century. The cooler, more elevated sites, such as the Eden and Clare Valleys, produce wines that are usually bone dry with a crisp acidity and mouth-watering green fruits. Favourites include Pewsey Vale, Henschke, Mount Horrocks, Grosset and Leeuwin Estate. O’Briens has two worth checking out; the Koonunga Hill Retro Autumn Riesling (€21.95) and the Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling, Clare Valley (€31.95).
Alsace, lying just across the Rhine from Germany, once produced steely, bone-dry Riesling with more body than their German counterparts. These days some are a little sweeter, but the best retain that wonderful austerity that goes so well with food. And, like Grüner Veltliner, Riesling is a fantastic and versatile food wine. It has a sweetness to the fruit that makes it ideal with scallops, prawns and crab. It also pairs nicely with sushi and sashimi, as well as smoked salmon. In Alsace, it is frequently enjoyed with chicken, including coq au Riesling, fatty pork and creamy sauces. And also, of course, with choucroute garnie. Slightly sweeter Riesling is one of the great matches for spicy Thai and Vietnamese seafood and chicken dishes as well as herby, spicy salads.
Looking further afield, O’Briens has the Château Ste Michelle Riesling (€16.95) from Washington, and Whelehan’s the delicious Dr Konstantin Frank Margrit Dry Riesling (€39) from Finger Lakes in New York State.
If you enjoy mature white wines, or want to build up a cellar, I find Riesling is one of the most reliable white wines to lay down (or if it is screwcap, stand up). Over the years I have stashed away odd bottles and now have a collection going back a decade or more, and I have yet to be disappointed.
Specially Selected Kooliburra Clare Valley Riesling 2020, Australia
Specially Selected Kooliburra Clare Valley Riesling 2020, Australia
12%, €8.99
Fresh, crisp and dry, with green apple fruits and a zesty lime acidity. Great value for money and perfect with most fish dishes or mild Thai green curries — chicken or prawn.
From Aldi
Tim Smith Wines Eden Valley Riesling 2021, Australia
Tim Smith Wines Eden Valley Riesling 2021, Australia
11.5%, €15.95
Fresh free-flowing green fruits with racy lime and lemon zest. A lovely wine at a very keen price. By itself, with crab salad, or a spicy Thai prawn salad.
Clean as a whistle with vibrant yellow fruits, a strong mineral edge and a lip-smacking dry finish. A posh aperitif or with smoked salmon.
From Mitchells, Glasthule and CHQ, D1; Avoca, Kilmacanogue and Dunboyne; MacCurtain Wine Cellar, Cork.
Framingham Classic Riesling 2021, Marlborough, New Zealand
Framingham Classic Riesling 2021, Marlborough, New Zealand
12%, €26.99
Very moreish tangy orange peel and succulent peach fruits in a beautifully balanced wine of real quality. Enjoy solo or with all manner of fishy delights.
From Baggot Street Wines, D4; Clontarf Wines, D3; wineonline.ie; Redmonds of Ranelagh, D6.
This week a delicious Chardonnay from Burgundy available exclusively from Whelehan’s Wines. This has a lovely richness, with peaches and dried apricots alongside some subtle toasty oak; there is plenty of citrus acidity to keep it fresh and it finishes well. Good value for money.
€28 from Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown whelehanswines.ie.
We enjoyed ours with salmon baked in foil with butter, lemon and dill, but this would go nicely with most salmon, turbot and black sole dishes as well as creamy fish pie. Vegetarians should try it with cauliflower cheese, sprinkled with toasted almonds to complement the oak.
Saint-Véran is a part of the Mâconnais region in the south of Burgundy, a source of reliable inexpensive white wine; we in Ireland are very familiar with Mâcon-Lugny and at a higher level, Pouilly-Fuissé. Generally, the wines here offer great value for Chardonnay-lovers. The region is now starting to reach its full potential with some high-quality wines. I have generally found the various Pouillys (Fuissé, Vinzelles, and Loché) to be superior to Saint-Véran but this is one of the exceptions.
First published in The Irish Times on Saturday 11th June, 2022
Freshly returned from a trip to Vienna, I am full of enthusiasm for Austrian wines. Grüner Veltliner, covered a few weeks ago, is the country’s flagship grape, but Austria produces a range of other world-class white wines, from Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and other varieties too. If you haven’t caught up with the changes in Austrian red wine, then you have a treat in store, and now is the time to try them out. Most have a vibrancy and freshness that makes them perfect for summer drinking. Many can be enjoyed by themselves, but these are among the most food-friendly wines of all. Don’t make the mistake of believing that lighter red wines will always be simple. They can be every bit as complex and stylish as more full-bodied reds.
The best-known indigenous Austrian red grape is probably Blaufränkisch, a variety capable of producing great wine with succulent dark fruits. Less well-known is Sankt Laurent, the best examples of which have a beguiling purity of blackcurrant and dark cherry fruits, leading some to speculate that it might be related to Pinot Noir. This has never been proven. Both of these varieties can also be found, in smaller quantities, in neighbouring countries, including Germany, Czechia, Hungary and Slovenia.
However, today a look at Zweigelt, Austria’s most widely grown red grape. A cross between the two above varieties, it has a growing reputation. The cross was made in the 1920s by Dr Friedrich Zweigelt who worked in the Austrian wine school at Klosterneuburg. The logic was simple; Blaufränkisch is late-ripening, high in acidity with firm tannins, whereas Sankt Laurent is early ripening with moderate tannins and delicate fruit. Crossing grape varieties is a hit and miss exercise, often creating something unintended. However, with Zweigelt it worked; it is generally mid-ripening and produces fruit-filled wine with soft tannins and acidity. Handily, it also gives good yields and isn’t too fussy where it was grown.
Not surprisingly it has grown in popularity, both in Austria and elsewhere. The best wines generally come from Burgenland and Carnuntum and vary in style from crowd-pleasing light fruity summer wines to quite serious bottles that repay ageing. I have tasted sparkling, sweet and rosé Zweigelt, but the vast majority are light and fruity, leading to comparisons with good Beaujolais. And, like Beaujolais, they go with a wide variety of foods, from richer fish dishes to cold meats, firm cheeses, schnitzels, roast pork and mushroom risottos. I find they go really well with grilled chicken and pork chops and other foods that we love to serve from the barbecue.
As well as the four wines below, I featured one of my favourite Zweigelts, the Pittnauer Heideboden (€22-25) in this column last month.
Zweigelt 2021, Niederösterreich
13%; €12.50
Lively, juicy ripe raspberry and red cherry fruits with no oak flavours and a smooth rounded finish. A good all-rounder to partner with medium-bodied pasta recipes, white meats and tomato dishes. From:Marks & Spencer.
Allram Rosé vom Blauen Zweigelt 2021, Niederösterreich
12%; €19.95
An attractive salmon pink colour, with subtle rhubarb and redcurrants fruit, good persistent acidity and a bone-dry finish with a gentle tannic bite. With sushi, sashimi, and light shellfish dishes. From: DrinkStore, Dublin 7; Thomas’s of Foxrock; Nectar Wines, Dublin 18; SC Grocer, Monkstown, Co Dublin.
Judith Beck Ink 2020, Burgenland, Biodynamic
12%; €20.35
Made from a blend of 80 per cent Zweigelt and 20 per cent Sankt Laurent, this is a delicious exuberant fruit-filled wine bursting with red cherries and raspberries. Perfect summer drinking with firm cheeses, charcuterie, chicken and pork dishes. From: Saltwater Grocery, Dublin 6; Avoca, Ballsbridge and Rathcoole, Co Dublin; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 2; Bradleys, Cork; DrinkStore, Dublin 7; Fallon & Byrne, Dublin 2; Gibneys, Malahide; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6; Martins, Dublin 3; The Wine Pair, Dublin 8; Pop-up shop at Ballymaloe; L’Atitude, Cork.
Zweigelt Nouveau 2021, Dorli Muhr, Carnuntum1
12%; €27
Delicious silky smooth vibrant dark fruits that dance around the palate. Free of tannins, this is a posh picnic wine to enjoy lightly chilled with an array of cold meats, salads and cheese. From: Ely Wine Store, Maynooth, Co Kildare; Lilith Wines, Dublin 7; Sweeneys, Dublin 3.
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