John Wilson

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Lowish alcohol white wines ideal for summer evenings

Posted by John Wilson on August 23, 2022

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 28th May, 2022

The Irish summer is notoriously unreliable, but we are a positive nation and always try to suck up every last minute of sun. As temperatures rise and we venture outdoors to enjoy the sunshine, we start seeking out more refreshing, lower alcohol wines to drink alongside summer salads and lighter fish and chicken dishes.

We are looking for enticing vivid, citrus-laden crisp wines with bright flowing fruits, wines that will satiate and quench our thirst. Alcohol levels for red wines seem to be on a steady increase, but it is still relatively easy to find lowish alcohol whites, ideal for those long summer evenings.

Don’t ignore richer white wines completely though; with more substantial dishes, they can really shine. A Chardonnay, Viognier or Rhône-style blend, especially those with a little oak ageing, can provide an excellent partner for salmon, chicken and pork served with creamy sauces, barbecued white meats and fish, as well as mild curries.

Our go-to white wines are Marlborough Sauvignon, Rías Baixas and Pinot Grigio from the Veneto, all great options. Check the label for alcohol levels, as they can vary in strength, remembering that producers are allowed a leeway .5% either way. There are plenty of alternatives though.

I am always drawn towards Italian white wines, most of which are 12.5% or less. This includes Soave and the nervy fresh wines of Trentino and Campania. As well as the Ribolla Gialla featured here, I would be tempted by the i Clivi Ribolla Gialla (€22.50, 64 Wine) for a special occasion.

Elsewhere you could look out for most dry or off-dry Riesling from Austria, Germany, Alsace or Australia, Grüner Veltliner from Austria, or fresher unoaked Chardonnay. Portugal and Spain offer plenty of choice. Alvarinho and Vinho Verde from Portugal are made for summertime drinking.

The green verdant Loire Valley in France produces a bevy of summer whites, often at great prices, from Muscadet to Sancerre, including many great Sauvignon Blanc. Don’t ignore other grapes such as Chenin Blanc and Melon de Bourgogne.

Here are four different countries and four different grapes featuring as wines of the week, and no Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Albariño, Riesling or Chardonnay among them.

Ribolla Gialla 2021, Venezia-Giulia, M&S Found, Italy 12%, €11 Light crisp orange peel and pears with subtle almonds. This would be great with herby pasta dishes, or clam linguini. From: Marks & Spencer

Domaine du Haut Bourg Pavillon 2020, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu sur lie 12%, €17 A very moreish summery Muscadet with succulent sprightly pear and apple fruits finishing dry. Perfect with a bowl of mussels, cold shellfish, or creamy goat’s cheese salads. From:Wines on the Green, D2.

Wagner Stempel Sylvaner Siefersheim 2021, Rheinhessen (organic)12%, €22.50-23 A joy to drink; pure limpid pear and apple fruits scented with fresh herbs and a thirst-quenching citrus. Drink it by itself or with al fresco salads and picnics. From: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Blackrock Cellar.

Xisto Ilimitado Branco 2020, Douro Valley, Portugal 12.5%, €24 Zesty and bright with lively stone fruits, pears and a strong mineral backbone. Wonderful wine; I can see myself sipping a glass of this looking out over the Douro Valley. Try it with grilled oily fish including salmon, or chicken salads. From: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Sweeneys D3; TheNudeWinecompany.ie; Pinto Wines, D9; Baggot Street Wines, D4; Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock; Loose Canon, D2; Green Man Wines, D6; Lennox Street Grocer, D8; Lilith, D7.

Tags: Douro Valley, Muscadet, Ribolla Gialla, Sylvaner Siefersheim

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In search of lower-alcohol red wines Four bottles, four countries, four grape varieties, and all with an ABV of 13% or less

Posted by John Wilson on August 23, 2022

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 21st May, 2022

I have been contacted by several frustrated readers unable to find lower alcohol wines. Lighter white wines are easier to find than reds; in general, white wines and sparkling wines tend to have higher acidity and less alcohol. Most are 13 per cent ABV or lower and very few reach 14 per cent. Many of those from cool climates, such as Muscadet, Austrian Grüner Veltliner and Australian Riesling are frequently less than 12.5 per cent, and the great German Rieslings are often less than 10 per cent.

Finding a lighter red wine can be tricky. Part of the problem is climate change. Regions such as Bordeaux once typically produced red wines at 12.5 per cent – 13 per cent alcohol; these days 14 per cent and 14.5 per cent is common. But it is also a stylistic choice by the producer. Red grapes are picked later when they are considered fully ripe. They have less acidity and higher sugar levels and as a result the wines will have more alcohol.

I suspect that many consumers in this country and other markets prefer richer red wines. There is something very seductive about a glass of velvety ripe fruit-sweet red wine – the alcohol provides texture, warmth and balances the tannins. Lighter reds tend to have higher acidity and taste fresher. This is not always to everyone’s taste, although the best have a delicious juiciness that is hard to beat.

I suspect it is going to become easier to find lower alcohol red wines in the future, as the multiples try to offer cheaper wines; under the new alcohol regulations, lower alcohol wines can be sold at lower prices

This week, the first of the summer reds; four wines from four different countries each made from a different grape variety and all with an ABV of 13 per cent or less. There will certainly be more as we move into summer.

Beaujolais, one of my favourite wines, tends to be lighter in alcohol, including the “crus” or villages such as Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent and Brouilly. The Domaine des Nugues below has been one of my go-to wines for many years. While there are many very insipid wines produced in Bardolino, wines such as the La Prendina are perfect in warm sunny weather. If you don’t live close to a Marks & Spencer, O’Briens has the delicious vibrant fruity Rizzardi Bardolino Classico Cuvée XV (13 per cent) for €15.45.

Many of the red wines from Austria and Germany (both have relatively cool climates) are lighter in alcohol. As well as the Zweigelt featured here, look out for wines made from Pinot Noir (sometimes called Spätburgunder here) and Blaufränkisch.

All of these wines should be served cool. As the weather warms up, you could even consider drinking them lightly chilled.

Bardolino 2020, La Prendina Estate 13%, €11 Light crunchy red cherry fruits, with a herby, earthy edge. This would be great with grilled fish or whipped goat’s cheese with roast peppers. From Marks & Spencer.

Beaujolais Villages 2018, Domaine des Nugues 13%, €19.50-€20 Utterly delicious smooth ripe but juicy dark and red fruits with very light tannins on the finish. A delight to drink, either by itself, with charcuterie, firm cheese, and most white meat recipes. From siyps.com; Ely Wine Store, Maynooth; Beshoff, Howth.

Thörle Spätburgunder 2018, Rheinhessen 12.5%, €21.95 Juicy ripe red cherry fruits with a lively peppery note. A true vin de soif. Drink this cool with tuna, duck breast, or risotto primavera. From the Corkscrew, D2.

Pittnauer Zweigelt Heideboden 2019, Burgenland, Austria 12.5%, €22-€25 A lightly earthy fruit-filled treat with vibrant dark berries, and soft easy tannins on the finish. A great picnic wine, or with dishes featuring cooked tomato sauces. From Drink Store, D7; The Corkscrew, D2; Martin’s Off Licence, D3; Morton’s, D6; SIYPS.com; Mitchell & Son, D1, Sandycove, and Avoca, Kilmacanogue & Dunboyne

Tags: Bardolino, Beaujolais Villages, Burgenland, Pittnauer, Spatburgunder

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`Catalò` Catalanesca 2020, Sorrentino

Posted by John Wilson on August 10, 2022

This is one of the most enjoyable white wines I have tried in a long while. It has that delicious mouth-watering natural acidity shared by many of the whites from Campania as well as being full of interesting complex flavours. Relatively deep in colour with herbs, yellow fruits and on the nose. The palate is deceptively rich and full of flavour while still being light and refreshing; cool peaches and other stone fruits, minerals and almonds. Try it with light pasta dishes or salads.

€26.99 from Ely Wine Store, Maynooth; Redmonds of Ranelagh, D6; Pinto Wines, Drumcondra, D9;
Wineonline.ie

The current enthusiasm for rediscovering old forgotten grape varieties has uncovered a host of really great varieties responsible for some unique and exciting wines. With some however, you quickly realise why they were discarded in the past. This is the first time I have come across Catalanesca, but if the wine above is any indication, it has a real future in Campania.

For decades, the Sorrentino family has been growing vines in the unique fertile volcanic soils found on the southern slopes of Mount Vesuvio. They specialise in local varieties, including Caprettone, Coda di Volpe, and Falanghina for white wines and red varieties such as Aglianico and Piedirosso. And the aforementioned Catalanesca.

Tags: Sorrentino

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Valtuille 2020, Vino de Villa, César Márquez, Bierzo

Posted by John Wilson on July 27, 2022

I am a big fan of Mencía and this is a great example; a lovely, elegant wine with real style – and at a great price too.

€20.86 from WineSpark.com

Aromatic, with wonderful pure refreshing juicy dark fruits; a welcome little bit of grip from the whole-bunch fermentation, and good acidity. It all comes together nicely in a dangerously drinkable, free-flowing wine that will brighten up your dinner. Drink it cool, not chilled and decant if possible.

The grapes come from two plots of vines in the villages of Valtuille. It is made from 85% Mencía, 15% Alicante Bouschet and other local varieties. 100% whole-bunch pressed and then aged in oak casks for a year.

César Márquez is a nephew of Raúl Pérez, one of the leading winemakers in North-West Spain. Márquez was introduced to winemaking by Pérez, and having worked in the family wineries and elsewhere, has now started a project of his own. The results are impressive to say the least. As well as this wine, WineSpark.com has the lighter and fruitier Parajes de Bierzo for a bargain €16.92.

Tags: Méncia, Valtuillle, WineSpark

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Delheim Chardonnay Sur Lie 2019, Stellenbosch

Posted by John Wilson on July 22, 2022

If you are a fan of white Burgundy, then this Chardonnay from O’Briens is well worth trying out. It’s not exactly cheap but compares very favourably in price and quality with many Chardonnays from Burgundy or California.

€26.45 from O’Briens

Medium-bodied and textured with mouth-watering peach fruits, citrus peel, subtle hazelnuts from the oak-ageing, and a fine mineral streak. Lively and full of flavour, this would go nicely with most chicken and richer fish dishes. We drank ours with a traybake of chicken thighs with lemon, but I suspect it would be even better with chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce, or salmon with loads of butter.

Delheim is a family-owned winery based in Stellenbosch close to Cape Town. They supply O’Briens with a range of very well-made, keenly-priced wines, including two great Chenin Blancs and a Pinotage Rosé. The sur lie is whole bunch pressed and fermented in 500 and 225 hl. French oak barrels, 15% of them new. It is then aged on its lees for nine months. 13.5%abv.

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The Côtes du Rhône: A great source of less expensive wine.

Posted by John Wilson on July 15, 2022

This article was first published in The Irish Times, Saturday 14th May, 2022

If you are heading off to France on holiday this summer, it is worth keeping the name Côtes du Rhône in mind, as it is an ever-present on lists in cafes and restaurants and on supermarket shelves in most parts of the country. This is not surprising as the Côtes du Rhône appellation is the second-largest in France (after Bordeaux).

Typically these are supple, warming, easy-drinking, food-friendly wines that don’t cost the earth. While quality certainly increases as you pay more, I find inexpensive Côtes du Rhône one of the more reliable options. This is partly down to the warm sunny climate, perfect for ripening grapes, but also the generosity of the Grenache grape. There are no fewer than 21 permitted grape varieties for Côtes du Rhône, but the vast majority of the wines are a blend of Grenache with varying amounts of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

Grenache is a thin-skinned grape that typically produces wines that are full of ripe jammy fruit, low in acidity and light in colour and tannins. This makes them ready to drink as soon as they are bottled. But beware! They can also be quite high in alcohol, anything up to a heady 15% ABV. However, these days many producers are picking a little earlier and 13-14.5% is far more common. Once dismissed by many wine-lovers, Grenache is enjoying renewed interest, not just in the Rhône but also in parts of Spain, its original home, where it is known as Garnacha.

Food-wise, the wines of the Rhône offer plenty of opportunity. In winter, drink it alongside rich beef stews and roast game. In summer it will go very nicely with most grilled and barbecued foods, including gourmet sausages and burgers, as well as pork, lamb and beef.

The wines of the Rhône are divided up into a quality pyramid. At the bottom of the pyramid, there are some 171 villages entitled to call themselves Côtes du Rhône, and another 95 villages permitted the superior Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation. The next step up is to Côtes du Rhône Villages with a village name attached, such as the Valréas below. At the top of the triangle is a small number of villages entitled to simply use their own name. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the best-known of the group, which also includes Gigondas, Rasteau, Cairanne, Vacqueyras and others.

Much of the production is in the hands of large negociants and co-operatives, but there are plenty of small producers producing great wines. Of course, you don’t have to travel to France to enjoy the wines of the Rhône; there are plenty available here at home too.

Côtes du Rhône Villages 2020, Lidl 13.5%, €8.49 Medium- to full-bodied with soft rounded strawberry fruits – this would go down nicely with richer beef or lamb stews, roast lamb or baked Mediterranean vegetables. From Lidl

Côtes du Rhône Samorëns 2020, Ferraton Père & Fils 14.5%, €14.95 A smooth, rich, easy-drinking red with soft dark fruits, a touch of garrigue and a rounded finish. Enjoy alongside a pepperoni or mushroom pizza, posh burger or a steak sandwich. From O’Briens

Clos Bellane Côtes du Rhône Villages Valréas 2019 (organic) 14.5%, €23 Velvety, voluptuous blackcurrants and plums with savoury black olives and a refreshing note. Drink alongside a côte de boeuf or a vegetarian Wellington. From Ely Wine Store, Maynooth.

Poignée de Raisins 2020, Gramenon, Côtes du Rhône, Biodynamic14%, €26.50 Lovely wine; restrained yet full of lovely, gentle, ripe dark cherries with a fresh, juicy edge. Enjoy with a gourmet burger (including vegetarian) or grilled lamb chops. From boujee-booze.com; Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, D2; Kells, Co Meath; Galway; siyps.com; Lennox Street Grocer, D8; Green Man Wines, D6; Ely Wine Store, Maynooth, elywinebar.ie; Provender Bread & Wine, D8.

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Côte de Brouilly 2020, Cuvée Mélanie, Daniel Bouland

Posted by John Wilson on July 15, 2022

A beautifully rich smooth Beaujolais with dark cherry, plum and blackcurrant fruits. The acidity is there but you hardly notice it given the concentration of ripe fruit. The finish is long and rounded. Serve lightly chilled with charcuterie, semi-hard cheese or chicken dishes. I bought this for €24.95 from Grapevine – Onthegrapevine.ie

Tags: Beaujolais, Cote de Brouilly, Daniel Bouland, Gamay

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The changing taste of Malbec: from fruit bomb to subtle elegance

Posted by John Wilson on March 19, 2020

First published in The Irish Times, 25th January, 2020

Who doesn’t like Malbec? It seems to be the red equivalent of Sauvignon Blanc, a wine that pleases all and grows in popularity every year

Who doesn’t like Malbec? It seems to be the red equivalent of Sauvignon Blanc, a wine that pleases all and grows in popularity every year. While these two favourites come from opposite sides of the globe, Argentina and New Zealand, they do share something in common; consistently good quality across the various styles and price categories. Both also have a recognisable taste profile that just about everyone enjoys.

When it first arrived on our shores, most of the wines were big, extracted fruit-bombs, the kind favoured by wine drinkers who prefer power over substance. But Malbec from Argentina has changed; there has been a move towards higher-altitude vineyards that produce lighter more elegant wines, and winemakers are seeking to produce wines with a sense of regional diversity. Although you still wouldn’t ever describe them as shrinking violets, there is much more subtlety to the wines now.

Typically, they are medium- to full-bodied with lush ripe fruit and soft tannins. Some have a lovely fragrance and good acidity, giving them a real elegance. Provided they haven’t been overoaked, also less common than it once was, most of the wines have wonderful pure dark fruits. The big wines haven’t gone away completely; done well they can be very welcome on cold winter evenings.

Cahors in France is the other region that majors on Malbec. South-west France could be described as the original home of this variety. In the past many were fiercely tannic and sometimes very earthy. But while Argentina has taken most of the limelight, the wines of Cahors have improved hugely and can be every bit as good as their South American counterparts, although different in style. It is rare to find Malbec in Spain, but the wine featured below is well worth trying.

Happily, for those on a budget, less expensive Malbec can be very good indeed whether from France or Argentina. Dunnes Stores has the French Levalet Malbec for €10 and the Alamos Ridge for €12.50, Aldi has the Exquisite Collection Malbec (€7.99), Spar & Londis has Las Celia, Marks & Spencer has a wide range, and O’Briens the Norton wines. All of these are good well-made wines that don’t cost too much.

At the top end, there is no shortage of great wines; my own favourites include Amalaya, Colomé, Mendel, Catena, Altos Las Hormigos, all widely available, Achaval Ferrer (JNwine), Susana Balbo (Wines Direct). From Cahors, Clos des Gamots (Wicklow Wine), Le Combal (€19.50, Terroirs) and Causse de Théron are worth seeking out in independents, as is Château de Croisille (€19.95, O’Briens).

Both styles of wine are great with food. Steak remains the favourite to accompany Malbec, but the lighter styles are well-suited to other red and white meats, including Mexican food, game and, for vegetarians and vegans, rich bean casseroles.

Ocho y Medio Malbec, La Mancha, Spain, 13%, €12.95

An easy, light, juicy Malbec with clean blackcurrant fruits sprinkled with a touch of spice. This would sit nicely alongside pork chops with a tomato sauce.

From: O’Briens, obrienswine.ie.

Pascual Toso Malbec 2017, Mendoza Argentina, 13.5%, €13.95-14.95

A perennial favourite and a perfect example of Argentinian Malbec; rich meaty ripe dark fruits, rounded tannins and good length. Perfect with all kinds of red meat. The Toso Selected Vines (€19.95) is even better.

From: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock, jusdevine.ie; Ely 64, Glasthule, Ely64.com; Martin’s Off Licence, Dublin 3, martinsofflicence.ie; Drinkstore, D7, drinkstore.ie; Egans, Portlaoise; Worldwide Wines, Waterford, worldwidewines.ie; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny, Thewinecentre.ie; O’Donovan’s, Cork, Odonovansofflicence.com; McCambridges, Galway, Mccambridges.com; Dalys, Boyle.

Zorzal Terroir Unico Malbec 2018, Uco Valley, Argentina, 13.5%, €18.50

A medium-bodied wine with lovely pure sweet ripe plum and loganberry fruits, a meaty concentration mid-palate and a clean lightly tannic finish. Very good value for money. With steak, roast shoulder of lamb or pork chops with chimichurri.

From: La Touche, Greystones, Latouchewines4u.ie; Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3 clontarfwines.ie; Sweeneys D3, sweeneysd3.ie.

Causse de Théron “Terrasse” 2015, Cahors, 13% €22.99

Lively lifted aromas, silky smooth red and black fruits – raspberries and blackberries – with a soft, lightly tannic finish. Perfect with roast duck or pork, lamb shanks, or baked mushrooms.

From: Blackrock Cellar, Blackrock, blackrockcellar.com; The Malt House, Trim; Lucey’s – The Good Food Shop, Mallow, luceysgoodfood.com; Wineonline.ie.

Tags: Malbec, Ocho y Medio, Pascual Toso Malbec, Zorzal Terroir Unico Malbec

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Four wines worth a few euros more

Posted by John Wilson on March 2, 2020

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 18th January, 2020

Four to try taht are worth spening a little more more on

Can a bottle of wine be worth €500,000? In 2018, Sotheby’s auctioned two bottles of 1945 la Romanée Conti, a very fine Burgundy, for just over $1 million (€894,000), making these the world’s most expensive bottles of wine.

This seems a bargain compared to the $1.9 million (€1.6 million) paid for a bottle of Scotch, the Macallan 1926, last year.

People delight in giving wine lovers tastings designed to make them look foolish. Wine tasters are one of the few groups of critics who regularly submit themselves to blind tastings. You could apply similar tests to lovers of other drinks, food, perfume, fashion and art with similar results. Our senses are notoriously unreliable judges of value, although professional wine judges are usually pretty accurate.

The truth is that no wine is worth half a million euros, or even five hundred, any more than a designer bag can really be worth €5,000 or more, or a Ferrari upwards of €200,000. At a certain stage, you are paying for rarity and slick marketing. For some, it is an investment, related to resale value, for others simply a way of announcing to the world that they have accumulated wealth.

Posh bottles

Leaving these luxury items aside, most of the time, most of us can tell the difference between a €10 bottle of wine and one costing €30. If a producer is lucky enough to own vineyards in the right place, and knows how to nurture vines and make really good wine, why would they sell it for €2 a bottle when they know a buyer will pay multiples of that? Conversely, if a winemaker forces vines into producing huge yields, and indulges in all sorts of perfectly legal interventions, they can sell at their wine a much lower price. But the wine won’t taste as good.

Given our high duties rates, all wine in Ireland will usually be more expensive than in other jurisdictions. The new alcohol regulations are designed to do away with ultra-cheap wine (often sold below cost) and the incessant promotions used by the multiples to entice us into their shops. I hope it will encourage us to drink less wine, and also to drink better wine.

Over Christmas, I opened up quite a few posh bottles, wines that cost me anything from €20-€50 a bottle. Only one was disappointing. The rest were a joy to drink, and good value for money, particularly when compared with wine prices in restaurants.

I made a resolution to drink less, but better in 2020. Believe me, once you go over €10-€12 a bottle, you will notice the difference. This week, four wines, all available from independent wine shops, that are worth a few euros more.

Muros Antigos Vinho Verde 2018

12.5%, €14

Floral aromas, succulent green apples and pears, with zesty citrus peel. Fresh as a spring morning. Try it with light leafy salads, and fish with herbs and lemon.

Stockists: Wines on the Green, Dublin 2, celticwhiskeyshop.com; Nolan’s, Dublin 3, nolans.ie; McCabes Wines, Dublin 18, mccabeswines.ie

d’Arenberg Hermit Crab 2016, Mclaren Vale

13%, €16.95

A perennial favourite of mine, rich in mouth-watering textured apricots, peaches and cantaloupe, finishing on a dry, refreshing note. This would be great with herby, spicy Asian seafood dishes; Vietnamese prawn salad?

Stockists: Donnybrook Fair, donnybrookfair.ie; Deveney’s, D14; Grapevine, Dalkey, onthegrapevine.ie; Shiel’s, Malahide; Kellys, Dublin 3, kellysofflicence.ie; Martin’s Off Licence, Dublin 3, martinsofflicence.ie; The Malt House, Trim; La Touche, Greystones, latouchewines4u.ie; Egan’s, Drogheda; 1601 Off-licence, Kinsale; Bradleys Off-licence, Cork, bradleysofflicence.ie; Morton’s, Dublin 6, mortons.ie; O’Donovan’s, Cork, odonovansofflicence.com

Mitchell & Son Claret 2015, Bordeaux Superieur

13.5%, €15

A very well-priced Bordeaux with elegant ripe blackcurrants and red cherries with soft tannins and an easy finish. Perfect with the Sunday roast.

Stockists: Mitchell & Son, Dublin 1, Sandycove, and Avoca, Kilmacanogue & Dunboyne, mitchellandson.com; Myles Doyle, Gorey; Wilde & Green, Dublin 6, wildeandgreen.com; O’Driscolls Off Licence, Co Kerry

Colle Morino 2017, Barba, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

2.5%, €16.50

A fresh, light easy-going wine with supple red cherry and damson fruits and not a tannin in sight. Instantly gluggable, this is a great all-purpose wine to go with lighter red meats, most white meats and hard cheeses. Perfect pizza wine too.

Stockists: Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, Dublin 2, Kells, Co Meath, Galway, sheridanscheesemongers.com; siyps.com; Ely 64, Glasthule, ely64.com

Tags: Barba, Colle Morino 2017, d'Arenberg Hermit Crab Chardonnay, Mitchell & Son Claret, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Muros Antigos Vinho Verde

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How to make your own kombucha and kefir John Wilson: Fermenting your own is more fun and less pricey than buying it in shops

Posted by John Wilson on February 27, 2020

First published in The Irish Times, 11th January, 2020

Captain Kombucha California Raspberry, SynerChi Ginger & Lemon, Blakes Always Organic Natural Kefir and A&K Real Food Ginger Kombucha

While kefir might seem a modern obsession of clean-eaters, it has been around for at least 3,500 years, according to Holly Davis, writing in her excellent book Ferment. Every generation seems to rediscover it.

Milk kefir, water kefir and kombucha are all made using a scoby – a symbiotic community of bacteria and yeasts – which, given the correct culturing medium, environmental conditions and time, produce a fermented drink.

It is argued that they are full of various healthy pre- and probiotics, as well as vitamins and all sorts of other beneficial nutrients. More importantly, they taste delicious and are virtually alcohol-free (kefir and kombucha can actually contain between 0.5 per cent and 3 per cent alcohol, depending on how they are made. Most commercial versions contain less than 0.5 per cent and can therefore be labelled non-alcoholic.

To make milk kefir, you need to get hold of some kefir grains – small, rubbery lumps that look a little like cauliflower. Milk kefir is simply milk that has been left to ferment with grains at room temperature for 24 hours or so. It is an acidic, sometimes creamy, occasionally lightly fizzy drink, not unlike a runny yogurt. The grains need to be fed regular doses of fresh milk, but otherwise the procedure is fairly simple.

Water kefir is made by fermenting water kefir grains (small glassy globules), water, fruit and sugar together for two to four days. It is generally refreshing, and mildly fizzy. You can ferment it a second time with various fruits, berries, spices and herbs to create an effervescent and very enjoyable complex drink.

To create kombucha, you add the starter culture to sweetened green or black tea. A kombucha scoby is a strange sight: a large, floppy, rubbery, jellyfish-like object that grows to cover the surface of your fermenting brew. As with water kefir, you can add flavours and ferment a second time.

Kombucha is made from tea, so it will contain caffeine. Some commercial drinks producers add sugar or stevia to make them taste sweeter. Commercial water kefir is not easy to come by. The best I have tasted was from Ballymaloe Cookery School (a hive of bacterial activity); it is available from the shop there. There are plenty of other drinks to try out too, such as kvass and ginger bug.

You can, of course, buy ready-made kefir and kombucha in many shops, but making your own at home is fun, costs much less and allows you to experiment with flavours. Scobys can be bought in health shops, online, or from the burgeoning online fermentation community. Once you get started, so long as you keep your scoby alive, you can simply reuse your own grains time after time.

Captain Kombucha California Raspberry (organic, vegan)
€2.75-€3.75 for 400ml
I’m not quite sure why we need to import kombucha from Portugal and raspberries from California, but this was a refreshing, fruit-filled kombucha. It was certainly the sweetest of those I tasted, but pleasant nevertheless.
From Health-food shops and SuperValu

SynerChi Raw Organic Live Ginger & Lemongrass Kombucha (organic, vegan)
€2.95-€3.10 for 330ml
Made in Co Donegal, this was a mild, refreshing kombucha, with light citrus and a subtle kick of ginger. A very attractive drink that would please those new to kombucha.
From Health-food shops and SuperValu

Blakes Always Organic Natural Kefir
€2.80 for 250ml
An organic milk kefir made in Co Leitrim. This was smooth and creamy with a good kick of acidity, and a lightly cheesy note. A great way to start the day.
From Health-food shops

A&K Real Food Ginger Kombucha
€2.95 for 330ml
Made in Co Wicklow, this was my favourite kombucha, fizzy, fresh and tangy, with a full-on spicy gingery kick. Highly recommended.
From Health-food shops.

Tags: A&K Real Food Konbucha, Always Natural Kefir, Captain Kombucha, Synerchi

Posted in: Irish Times

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