This is one of the most enjoyable white wines I have tried in a long while. It has that delicious mouth-watering natural acidity shared by many of the whites from Campania as well as being full of interesting complex flavours. Relatively deep in colour with herbs, yellow fruits and on the nose. The palate is deceptively rich and full of flavour while still being light and refreshing; cool peaches and other stone fruits, minerals and almonds. Try it with light pasta dishes or salads.
€26.99 from Ely Wine Store, Maynooth; Redmonds of Ranelagh, D6; Pinto Wines, Drumcondra, D9;
Wineonline.ie
The current enthusiasm for rediscovering old forgotten grape varieties has uncovered a host of really great varieties responsible for some unique and exciting wines. With some however, you quickly realise why they were discarded in the past. This is the first time I have come across Catalanesca, but if the wine above is any indication, it has a real future in Campania.
For decades, the Sorrentino family has been growing vines in the unique fertile volcanic soils found on the southern slopes of Mount Vesuvio. They specialise in local varieties, including Caprettone, Coda di Volpe, and Falanghina for white wines and red varieties such as Aglianico and Piedirosso. And the aforementioned Catalanesca.
I am a big fan of Mencía and this is a great example; a lovely, elegant wine with real style – and at a great price too.
€20.86 from WineSpark.com
Aromatic, with wonderful pure refreshing juicy dark fruits; a welcome little bit of grip from the whole-bunch fermentation, and good acidity. It all comes together nicely in a dangerously drinkable, free-flowing wine that will brighten up your dinner. Drink it cool, not chilled and decant if possible.
The grapes come from two plots of vines in the villages of Valtuille. It is made from 85% Mencía, 15% Alicante Bouschet and other local varieties. 100% whole-bunch pressed and then aged in oak casks for a year.
César Márquez is a nephew of Raúl Pérez, one of the leading winemakers in North-West Spain. Márquez was introduced to winemaking by Pérez, and having worked in the family wineries and elsewhere, has now started a project of his own. The results are impressive to say the least. As well as this wine, WineSpark.com has the lighter and fruitier Parajes de Bierzo for a bargain €16.92.
If you are a fan of white Burgundy, then this Chardonnay from O’Briens is well worth trying out. It’s not exactly cheap but compares very favourably in price and quality with many Chardonnays from Burgundy or California.
€26.45 from O’Briens
Medium-bodied and textured with mouth-watering peach fruits, citrus peel, subtle hazelnuts from the oak-ageing, and a fine mineral streak. Lively and full of flavour, this would go nicely with most chicken and richer fish dishes. We drank ours with a traybake of chicken thighs with lemon, but I suspect it would be even better with chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce, or salmon with loads of butter.
Delheim is a family-owned winery based in Stellenbosch close to Cape Town. They supply O’Briens with a range of very well-made, keenly-priced wines, including two great Chenin Blancs and a Pinotage Rosé. The sur lie is whole bunch pressed and fermented in 500 and 225 hl. French oak barrels, 15% of them new. It is then aged on its lees for nine months. 13.5%abv.
This article was first published in The Irish Times, Saturday 14th May, 2022
If you are heading off to France on holiday this summer, it is worth keeping the name Côtes du Rhône in mind, as it is an ever-present on lists in cafes and restaurants and on supermarket shelves in most parts of the country. This is not surprising as the Côtes du Rhône appellation is the second-largest in France (after Bordeaux).
Typically these are supple, warming, easy-drinking, food-friendly wines that don’t cost the earth. While quality certainly increases as you pay more, I find inexpensive Côtes du Rhône one of the more reliable options. This is partly down to the warm sunny climate, perfect for ripening grapes, but also the generosity of the Grenache grape. There are no fewer than 21 permitted grape varieties for Côtes du Rhône, but the vast majority of the wines are a blend of Grenache with varying amounts of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.
Grenache is a thin-skinned grape that typically produces wines that are full of ripe jammy fruit, low in acidity and light in colour and tannins. This makes them ready to drink as soon as they are bottled. But beware! They can also be quite high in alcohol, anything up to a heady 15% ABV. However, these days many producers are picking a little earlier and 13-14.5% is far more common. Once dismissed by many wine-lovers, Grenache is enjoying renewed interest, not just in the Rhône but also in parts of Spain, its original home, where it is known as Garnacha.
Food-wise, the wines of the Rhône offer plenty of opportunity. In winter, drink it alongside rich beef stews and roast game. In summer it will go very nicely with most grilled and barbecued foods, including gourmet sausages and burgers, as well as pork, lamb and beef.
The wines of the Rhône are divided up into a quality pyramid. At the bottom of the pyramid, there are some 171 villages entitled to call themselves Côtes du Rhône, and another 95 villages permitted the superior Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation. The next step up is to Côtes du Rhône Villages with a village name attached, such as the Valréas below. At the top of the triangle is a small number of villages entitled to simply use their own name. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the best-known of the group, which also includes Gigondas, Rasteau, Cairanne, Vacqueyras and others.
Much of the production is in the hands of large negociants and co-operatives, but there are plenty of small producers producing great wines. Of course, you don’t have to travel to France to enjoy the wines of the Rhône; there are plenty available here at home too.
Côtes du Rhône Villages 2020, Lidl13.5%, €8.49 Medium- to full-bodied with soft rounded strawberry fruits – this would go down nicely with richer beef or lamb stews, roast lamb or baked Mediterranean vegetables. From Lidl
Côtes du Rhône Samorëns 2020, Ferraton Père & Fils14.5%, €14.95 A smooth, rich, easy-drinking red with soft dark fruits, a touch of garrigue and a rounded finish. Enjoy alongside a pepperoni or mushroom pizza, posh burger or a steak sandwich. From O’Briens
Clos Bellane Côtes du Rhône Villages Valréas 2019 (organic)14.5%, €23 Velvety, voluptuous blackcurrants and plums with savoury black olives and a refreshing note. Drink alongside a côte de boeuf or a vegetarian Wellington. From Ely Wine Store, Maynooth.
Poignée de Raisins 2020, Gramenon, Côtes du Rhône, Biodynamic14%, €26.50 Lovely wine; restrained yet full of lovely, gentle, ripe dark cherries with a fresh, juicy edge. Enjoy with a gourmet burger (including vegetarian) or grilled lamb chops. Fromboujee-booze.com; Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, D2; Kells, Co Meath; Galway; siyps.com; Lennox Street Grocer, D8; Green Man Wines, D6; Ely Wine Store, Maynooth, elywinebar.ie; Provender Bread & Wine, D8.
A beautifully rich smooth Beaujolais with dark cherry, plum and blackcurrant fruits. The acidity is there but you hardly notice it given the concentration of ripe fruit. The finish is long and rounded. Serve lightly chilled with charcuterie, semi-hard cheese or chicken dishes. I bought this for €24.95 from Grapevine – Onthegrapevine.ie
First published in The Irish Times, 25th January, 2020
Who doesn’t like Malbec? It seems to be the red equivalent of Sauvignon Blanc, a wine that pleases all and grows in popularity every year. While these two favourites come from opposite sides of the globe, Argentina and New Zealand, they do share something in common; consistently good quality across the various styles and price categories. Both also have a recognisable taste profile that just about everyone enjoys.
When it first arrived on our shores, most of the wines were big, extracted fruit-bombs, the kind favoured by wine drinkers who prefer power over substance. But Malbec from Argentina has changed; there has been a move towards higher-altitude vineyards that produce lighter more elegant wines, and winemakers are seeking to produce wines with a sense of regional diversity. Although you still wouldn’t ever describe them as shrinking violets, there is much more subtlety to the wines now.
Typically, they are medium- to full-bodied with lush ripe fruit and soft tannins. Some have a lovely fragrance and good acidity, giving them a real elegance. Provided they haven’t been overoaked, also less common than it once was, most of the wines have wonderful pure dark fruits. The big wines haven’t gone away completely; done well they can be very welcome on cold winter evenings.
Cahors in France is the other region that majors on Malbec. South-west France could be described as the original home of this variety. In the past many were fiercely tannic and sometimes very earthy. But while Argentina has taken most of the limelight, the wines of Cahors have improved hugely and can be every bit as good as their South American counterparts, although different in style. It is rare to find Malbec in Spain, but the wine featured below is well worth trying.
Happily, for those on a budget, less expensive Malbec can be very good indeed whether from France or Argentina. Dunnes Stores has the French Levalet Malbec for €10 and the Alamos Ridge for €12.50, Aldi has the Exquisite Collection Malbec (€7.99), Spar & Londis has Las Celia, Marks & Spencer has a wide range, and O’Briens the Norton wines. All of these are good well-made wines that don’t cost too much.
At the top end, there is no shortage of great wines; my own favourites include Amalaya, Colomé, Mendel, Catena, Altos Las Hormigos, all widely available, Achaval Ferrer (JNwine), Susana Balbo (Wines Direct). From Cahors, Clos des Gamots (Wicklow Wine), Le Combal (€19.50, Terroirs) and Causse de Théron are worth seeking out in independents, as is Château de Croisille (€19.95, O’Briens).
Both styles of wine are great with food. Steak remains the favourite to accompany Malbec, but the lighter styles are well-suited to other red and white meats, including Mexican food, game and, for vegetarians and vegans, rich bean casseroles.
Ocho y Medio Malbec, La Mancha, Spain, 13%, €12.95
Ocho y Medio Malbec, La Mancha, Spain, 13%, €12.95
An easy, light, juicy Malbec with clean blackcurrant fruits sprinkled with a touch of spice. This would sit nicely alongside pork chops with a tomato sauce.
A perennial favourite and a perfect example of Argentinian Malbec; rich meaty ripe dark fruits, rounded tannins and good length. Perfect with all kinds of red meat. The Toso Selected Vines (€19.95) is even better.
Zorzal Terroir Unico Malbec 2018, Uco Valley, Argentina, 13.5%, €18.50
Zorzal Terroir Unico Malbec 2018, Uco Valley, Argentina, 13.5%, €18.50
A medium-bodied wine with lovely pure sweet ripe plum and loganberry fruits, a meaty concentration mid-palate and a clean lightly tannic finish. Very good value for money. With steak, roast shoulder of lamb or pork chops with chimichurri.
Causse de Théron “Terrasse” 2015, Cahors, 13% €22.99
Causse de Théron “Terrasse” 2015, Cahors, 13% €22.99
Lively lifted aromas, silky smooth red and black fruits – raspberries and blackberries – with a soft, lightly tannic finish. Perfect with roast duck or pork, lamb shanks, or baked mushrooms.
First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 18th January, 2020
Can a bottle of wine be worth €500,000? In 2018, Sotheby’s auctioned two bottles of 1945 la Romanée Conti, a very fine Burgundy, for just over $1 million (€894,000), making these the world’s most expensive bottles of wine.
This seems a bargain compared to the $1.9 million (€1.6 million) paid for a bottle of Scotch, the Macallan 1926, last year.
People delight in giving wine lovers tastings designed to make them look foolish. Wine tasters are one of the few groups of critics who regularly submit themselves to blind tastings. You could apply similar tests to lovers of other drinks, food, perfume, fashion and art with similar results. Our senses are notoriously unreliable judges of value, although professional wine judges are usually pretty accurate.
The truth is that no wine is worth half a million euros, or even five hundred, any more than a designer bag can really be worth €5,000 or more, or a Ferrari upwards of €200,000. At a certain stage, you are paying for rarity and slick marketing. For some, it is an investment, related to resale value, for others simply a way of announcing to the world that they have accumulated wealth.
Posh bottles
Leaving these luxury items aside, most of the time, most of us can tell the difference between a €10 bottle of wine and one costing €30. If a producer is lucky enough to own vineyards in the right place, and knows how to nurture vines and make really good wine, why would they sell it for €2 a bottle when they know a buyer will pay multiples of that? Conversely, if a winemaker forces vines into producing huge yields, and indulges in all sorts of perfectly legal interventions, they can sell at their wine a much lower price. But the wine won’t taste as good.
Given our high duties rates, all wine in Ireland will usually be more expensive than in other jurisdictions. The new alcohol regulations are designed to do away with ultra-cheap wine (often sold below cost) and the incessant promotions used by the multiples to entice us into their shops. I hope it will encourage us to drink less wine, and also to drink better wine.
Over Christmas, I opened up quite a few posh bottles, wines that cost me anything from €20-€50 a bottle. Only one was disappointing. The rest were a joy to drink, and good value for money, particularly when compared with wine prices in restaurants.
I made a resolution to drink less, but better in 2020. Believe me, once you go over €10-€12 a bottle, you will notice the difference. This week, four wines, all available from independent wine shops, that are worth a few euros more.
Muros Antigos Vinho Verde 2018
12.5%, €14
Floral aromas, succulent green apples and pears, with zesty citrus peel. Fresh as a spring morning. Try it with light leafy salads, and fish with herbs and lemon.
A perennial favourite of mine, rich in mouth-watering textured apricots, peaches and cantaloupe, finishing on a dry, refreshing note. This would be great with herby, spicy Asian seafood dishes; Vietnamese prawn salad?
A very well-priced Bordeaux with elegant ripe blackcurrants and red cherries with soft tannins and an easy finish. Perfect with the Sunday roast.
Stockists: Mitchell & Son, Dublin 1, Sandycove, and Avoca, Kilmacanogue & Dunboyne, mitchellandson.com; Myles Doyle, Gorey; Wilde & Green, Dublin 6, wildeandgreen.com; O’Driscolls Off Licence, Co Kerry
Colle Morino 2017, Barba, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
2.5%, €16.50
A fresh, light easy-going wine with supple red cherry and damson fruits and not a tannin in sight. Instantly gluggable, this is a great all-purpose wine to go with lighter red meats, most white meats and hard cheeses. Perfect pizza wine too.
First published in The Irish Times, 11th January, 2020
While kefir might seem a modern obsession of clean-eaters, it has been around for at least 3,500 years, according to Holly Davis, writing in her excellent book Ferment. Every generation seems to rediscover it.
Milk kefir, water kefir and kombucha are all made using a scoby – a symbiotic community of bacteria and yeasts – which, given the correct culturing medium, environmental conditions and time, produce a fermented drink.
It is argued that they are full of various healthy pre- and probiotics, as well as vitamins and all sorts of other beneficial nutrients. More importantly, they taste delicious and are virtually alcohol-free (kefir and kombucha can actually contain between 0.5 per cent and 3 per cent alcohol, depending on how they are made. Most commercial versions contain less than 0.5 per cent and can therefore be labelled non-alcoholic.
To make milk kefir, you need to get hold of some kefir grains – small, rubbery lumps that look a little like cauliflower. Milk kefir is simply milk that has been left to ferment with grains at room temperature for 24 hours or so. It is an acidic, sometimes creamy, occasionally lightly fizzy drink, not unlike a runny yogurt. The grains need to be fed regular doses of fresh milk, but otherwise the procedure is fairly simple.
Water kefir is made by fermenting water kefir grains (small glassy globules), water, fruit and sugar together for two to four days. It is generally refreshing, and mildly fizzy. You can ferment it a second time with various fruits, berries, spices and herbs to create an effervescent and very enjoyable complex drink.
To create kombucha, you add the starter culture to sweetened green or black tea. A kombucha scoby is a strange sight: a large, floppy, rubbery, jellyfish-like object that grows to cover the surface of your fermenting brew. As with water kefir, you can add flavours and ferment a second time.
Kombucha is made from tea, so it will contain caffeine. Some commercial drinks producers add sugar or stevia to make them taste sweeter. Commercial water kefir is not easy to come by. The best I have tasted was from Ballymaloe Cookery School (a hive of bacterial activity); it is available from the shop there. There are plenty of other drinks to try out too, such as kvass and ginger bug.
You can, of course, buy ready-made kefir and kombucha in many shops, but making your own at home is fun, costs much less and allows you to experiment with flavours. Scobys can be bought in health shops, online, or from the burgeoning online fermentation community. Once you get started, so long as you keep your scoby alive, you can simply reuse your own grains time after time.
Captain Kombucha California Raspberry (organic, vegan) €2.75-€3.75 for 400ml
I’m not quite sure why we need to import kombucha from Portugal and raspberries from California, but this was a refreshing, fruit-filled kombucha. It was certainly the sweetest of those I tasted, but pleasant nevertheless. From Health-food shops and SuperValu
SynerChi Raw Organic Live Ginger & Lemongrass Kombucha (organic, vegan) €2.95-€3.10 for 330ml
Made in Co Donegal, this was a mild, refreshing kombucha, with light citrus and a subtle kick of ginger. A very attractive drink that would please those new to kombucha. From Health-food shops and SuperValu
Blakes Always Organic Natural Kefir €2.80 for 250ml
An organic milk kefir made in Co Leitrim. This was smooth and creamy with a good kick of acidity, and a lightly cheesy note. A great way to start the day. From Health-food shops
A&K Real Food Ginger Kombucha €2.95 for 330ml
Made in Co Wicklow, this was my favourite kombucha, fizzy, fresh and tangy, with a full-on spicy gingery kick. Highly recommended. From Health-food shops.
First published in The Irish Times, 4th January, 2020
With the surge of interest in alcohol-free drinks, the range of low- and no-alcohol beers is growing annually. Both Heineken and Guinness have produced their own versions.
Guinness released its Open Gate Brew lager in 2018 – made, the blurb claims, “using a special yeast strain that only produces a very limited amount of alcohol”. The international craft brewers have been at it for years; the Danish Mikkeller’s Drink’in the Sun and Brew Dog, Punk AF (.5%) and Nanny State (1.1%) are probably the most popular.
Over Christmas, I tried two Irish alcohol-free craft beers several times and enjoyed both. Dungarvan Main Sail, introduced in 2019, is light and fresh with a good hoppy herby touch and plenty of refreshing citrus. It is 0.4% and therefore qualifies as alcohol-free. Claire Dalton of Dungarvan says: “We use the same brewing technique, using less grain and therefore less sugar which means less alcohol. The challenge was to get some body and flavour into it – so we used a wide variety of grains. It has been very well received.
“Initially, we did it as a once-off to see if there was an appetite out there, but we’ve brewed it several times since. People are definitely looking for no- and low-alcohol beers, but want a more full-flavoured version. The Main Sail ticks their craft box and their flavour profile too.”
The other alcohol-free craft beer I enjoyed was Moonlight from Wicklow Wolf brewery in Newtownmountkennedy. It was maltier, with a pleasant fruitiness and crisp citrus on the finish.
Beer without alcohol doesn’t taste quite the same. Part of that is down to the process used in making it. Also, as with wine, alcohol is part of the taste and carries other flavours. But if you are spending an evening in a pub, frequently it is the best option.
First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 4th January, 2020
We are fast approaching Blue Monday, the day many believe to be the worst of the year, when credit card bills must be paid, diets have failed, the days still don’t seem any longer and the weather is still miserable.
If dry January is not for you, and your credit facilities are maxed out, this week I bring you four widely available wines, all costing €10 or less. I have been lukewarm about inexpensive supermarket wines before, but these four offer genuinely great value for money.
As well as producing some of the most exciting wines around, Spain is a ready source of great glugging wines at very reasonable prices. In addition to the Garnacha and Rioja here. O’Briens has the ever reliable Protocolo, currently €10.95, but often on offer at a bargain €9.95. Most independents should have a well-priced Tempranillo, Garnacha or possibly Bobal from the centre of Spain, an area that produces massive quantities of wine, often at bargain prices.
Cheap Rioja can be awful and I generally avoid it, but the unoaked Cepa Lebrel Joven included here is an exception; I prefer it to the more expensive Cepa Lebrel Reserva and Gran Reserva. I bought my bottle for €5.99 before Christmas, but the price has returned to €7.55 now. You won’t mistake it for that fine Rioja you splurged out on for Christmas, but it really offers great value. In general, I am a big fan of unoaked Rioja. Some of the better producers make lovely clean elegant wines, but you will need to visit your independent wine merchant for these.
Laurent Miquel and his Irish wife Neasa planted Albariño vines in their high-altitude vineyard in the wilds of Corbières in the Languedoc. These were and probably still are the only Albariño vines in France. The wines were always good but have been improving every year. At €10, they represent a real bargain, less expensive than most Rías Baixas, the home of Albariño.
Until recently you had to look hard to find a Pinot Noir that didn’t cost a fortune. But first Chile and now Romania and New Zealand are producing very tasty wines at prices that are very affordable.
O’Briens Romanian Wildflower Pinot Noir is currently €9. The Aldi Exquisite New Zealand Pinot Noir (they also have a very decent Australian Pinot) used to come from Marlborough, New Zealand’s largest wine producing region, but last year it switched to Wairarapa. Wairarapa is less well-known than Marlborough, but the wines, red and white, can be every bit as good, and the Pinots better.
Cepa Lebrel Rioja Joven 2018
Cepa Lebrel Rioja Joven 2018 13%, €7.55
Light and juicy with clean damson and dark cherry fruits. Refreshing acidity and free of tannins. Try it with pork or chicken dishes.
Campaneo Old Vines Garnacha 2017, Campo de Borja 14%, €8
Medium to full-bodied with spice, milk chocolate and smooth dark fruits. Try it with red meats; a steak or lamb casserole.
Laurent Miquel Albariño 2018, IGP Aude 13%, €10
Zesty citrus aromas, with toothsome elegant pear fruits and a crisp dry finish. Drink it solo, with shellfish or simply cooked white fish.
Exquisite Collection Pinot Noir 2018, Wairarapa, New Zealand
Exquisite Collection Pinot Noir 2018, Wairarapa, New Zealand 13%, €9.99
Light, vivid black cherry and damson fruits with a nice refreshing backbone. Perfect with tuna, salmon, or roast duck.
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