First published in The Irish Times, 4th January, 2020
With the surge of interest in alcohol-free drinks, the range of low- and no-alcohol beers is growing annually. Both Heineken and Guinness have produced their own versions.
Guinness released its Open Gate Brew lager in 2018 – made, the blurb claims, “using a special yeast strain that only produces a very limited amount of alcohol”. The international craft brewers have been at it for years; the Danish Mikkeller’s Drink’in the Sun and Brew Dog, Punk AF (.5%) and Nanny State (1.1%) are probably the most popular.
Over Christmas, I tried two Irish alcohol-free craft beers several times and enjoyed both. Dungarvan Main Sail, introduced in 2019, is light and fresh with a good hoppy herby touch and plenty of refreshing citrus. It is 0.4% and therefore qualifies as alcohol-free. Claire Dalton of Dungarvan says: “We use the same brewing technique, using less grain and therefore less sugar which means less alcohol. The challenge was to get some body and flavour into it – so we used a wide variety of grains. It has been very well received.
“Initially, we did it as a once-off to see if there was an appetite out there, but we’ve brewed it several times since. People are definitely looking for no- and low-alcohol beers, but want a more full-flavoured version. The Main Sail ticks their craft box and their flavour profile too.”
The other alcohol-free craft beer I enjoyed was Moonlight from Wicklow Wolf brewery in Newtownmountkennedy. It was maltier, with a pleasant fruitiness and crisp citrus on the finish.
Beer without alcohol doesn’t taste quite the same. Part of that is down to the process used in making it. Also, as with wine, alcohol is part of the taste and carries other flavours. But if you are spending an evening in a pub, frequently it is the best option.
First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 4th January, 2020
We are fast approaching Blue Monday, the day many believe to be the worst of the year, when credit card bills must be paid, diets have failed, the days still don’t seem any longer and the weather is still miserable.
If dry January is not for you, and your credit facilities are maxed out, this week I bring you four widely available wines, all costing €10 or less. I have been lukewarm about inexpensive supermarket wines before, but these four offer genuinely great value for money.
As well as producing some of the most exciting wines around, Spain is a ready source of great glugging wines at very reasonable prices. In addition to the Garnacha and Rioja here. O’Briens has the ever reliable Protocolo, currently €10.95, but often on offer at a bargain €9.95. Most independents should have a well-priced Tempranillo, Garnacha or possibly Bobal from the centre of Spain, an area that produces massive quantities of wine, often at bargain prices.
Cheap Rioja can be awful and I generally avoid it, but the unoaked Cepa Lebrel Joven included here is an exception; I prefer it to the more expensive Cepa Lebrel Reserva and Gran Reserva. I bought my bottle for €5.99 before Christmas, but the price has returned to €7.55 now. You won’t mistake it for that fine Rioja you splurged out on for Christmas, but it really offers great value. In general, I am a big fan of unoaked Rioja. Some of the better producers make lovely clean elegant wines, but you will need to visit your independent wine merchant for these.
Laurent Miquel and his Irish wife Neasa planted Albariño vines in their high-altitude vineyard in the wilds of Corbières in the Languedoc. These were and probably still are the only Albariño vines in France. The wines were always good but have been improving every year. At €10, they represent a real bargain, less expensive than most Rías Baixas, the home of Albariño.
Until recently you had to look hard to find a Pinot Noir that didn’t cost a fortune. But first Chile and now Romania and New Zealand are producing very tasty wines at prices that are very affordable.
O’Briens Romanian Wildflower Pinot Noir is currently €9. The Aldi Exquisite New Zealand Pinot Noir (they also have a very decent Australian Pinot) used to come from Marlborough, New Zealand’s largest wine producing region, but last year it switched to Wairarapa. Wairarapa is less well-known than Marlborough, but the wines, red and white, can be every bit as good, and the Pinots better.
Cepa Lebrel Rioja Joven 2018
Cepa Lebrel Rioja Joven 2018 13%, €7.55
Light and juicy with clean damson and dark cherry fruits. Refreshing acidity and free of tannins. Try it with pork or chicken dishes.
Campaneo Old Vines Garnacha 2017, Campo de Borja 14%, €8
Medium to full-bodied with spice, milk chocolate and smooth dark fruits. Try it with red meats; a steak or lamb casserole.
Laurent Miquel Albariño 2018, IGP Aude 13%, €10
Zesty citrus aromas, with toothsome elegant pear fruits and a crisp dry finish. Drink it solo, with shellfish or simply cooked white fish.
Exquisite Collection Pinot Noir 2018, Wairarapa, New Zealand
Exquisite Collection Pinot Noir 2018, Wairarapa, New Zealand 13%, €9.99
Light, vivid black cherry and damson fruits with a nice refreshing backbone. Perfect with tuna, salmon, or roast duck.
First published in the Irish Times, Saturday 14th December, 2019
What to drink with turkey? It is not too difficult, really. If you are a white-wine drinker, go for a fairly rich, full-bodied oaked Chardonnay or similar style of wine, either from its home territory, in Burgundy, or possibly from New Zealand or Australia.
I tasted the lightly oaked Muga Blanco Rioja (€13.99-€14.99, below) a few weeks ago and couldn’t believe how good it was; wines of this quality usually cost more than €20. This would also go very nicely with smoked salmon and other richer seafood dishes. For an alternative, try a Godello from Valdeorras, or a rich Chenin Blanc from South Africa.
If your budget is generous, start proceedings with a glass of Champagne. Otherwise, Marks & Spencer Cava Brut NV (€10.50) or Tuffeau Blanc de Blancs Nature (independents, about €20) will certainly help kick-start the celebrations. To go with fishy starters, serve a Rías Baixas from Spain (O’Briens has the succulent Lagar de Costa Albariño for €16.96, currently down from €19.95).
If you prefer red wine with your turkey, a fruity Beaujolais, a Pinot Noir (including Burgundy) or a mature Bordeaux would all do nicely. If you enjoy Spanish wines, you could try a Rioja crianza, reserva or gran reserva, or, if you are feeling adventurous, a Garnacha from DO Madrid, or a Mencía, from northwest Spain.
If your preferences run to fuller-bodied wines, a southern Rhône (including Châteauneuf-du-Pape) or a rich Barossa Valley Shiraz will go well with turkey as well as with any rich stuffings.
Over the past few years I have ended up serving a good red Burgundy. Pinot Noir goes really well with turkey, goose and ham provided you steer clear of the cranberry sauce, which is not kind to any sort of wine. I have also enjoyed some pure Syrah from the northern Rhône.
This year I may well try either the Greywacke Pinot Noir or the excellent Chemin des Fonts, both of which feature below. In fact, the same producer’s Zephyr would do very nicely as a white wine if you wanted to try something different.
If you are entertaining a crowd, Aldi Exquisite Collection Pinot Noir (€9.99) or Aldi Côtes du Rhône Signargues (€8.99) will put a smile on everyone’s face. Also, Molloy’s Liquor Stores have a good selection of inexpensive Côtes du Rhônes on offer at the moment.
Alternatively, watch out for the keenly priced Cune Rioja Crianza (€11.50 from SuperValu, Dunnes Stores and Tesco), which is great with turkey, beef or goose.
With the Christmas pudding, offer a modest serving of tawny port; even those who profess to dislike port may suddenly change their mind.
Whatever wines you choose, make sure you have decent wine glasses, plenty of water to hand, and an alcohol-free option for those driving.
Muga Rioja Blanco 2018, Bodegas Muga, 13%, €13.99-€14.99
Lively apple and nectarine fruits with light toasty notes, refreshing citrus acidity and a crisp, dry finish. From Donnybrook Fair, donnybrookfair.ie; Morton’s, Dublin 6, mortons.ie; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4, baggotstreetwines.com; Kilcavan Stores, Gorey, Co Wexford
Chemin des Fonts 2018, Les Deux Cols, Côtes du Rhône, 14.5%, €28.50
A very refined glass of wine, with lifted aromas of spice, dark fruits and liquorice; the palate is silky-smooth, with plum fruits, black olives and a lingering finish. An excellent all-rounder that would be perfect with turkey, beef or duck. From Jus de Vine, Portmarnock, Co Dublin, jusdevine.ie; Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin, searsons.com; Deveney’s, Dundrum, Dublin 16; Ely 64, Glasthule, Co Dublin, ely64.com; siyps.com; Avoca, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, and Rathcoole, Co Dublin, avoca.com; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6, greenmanwines.ie; Drinkstore, Dublin 7, drinkstore.ie
Château Perron 2016, Lalande-de-Pomerol, 13%, €28.95
A finely balanced, refined Bordeaux with clean damson fruits, a touch of dark chocolate and light tannins on the finish. One to serve with a roast of beef or goose. From Mitchell & Son, Dublin 1, Sandycove, Co Dublin, and Avoca, Kilmacanogue, Co Wicklow, and Dunboyne, Co Meath, mitchellandson.com; Worldwide Wines, Waterford, worldwidewines.ie
Greywacke Pinot Noir 2016, Marlborough, 13.5%, €42.99
A medium-bodied wine with concentrated, ripe sweet-sour dark-cherry fruits, subtle spices and herbs. This will happily partner turkey, duck or goose. From Ely 64, Glasthule, Co Dublin, ely64.com; the Corkscrew, Dublin 2, thecorkscrew.ie; Ely Wine Store, Maynooth, Co Kildare, elywinebar.ie; Fresh branches, freshthegoodfoodmarket.ie; Martin’s Off Licence, Dublin 3, martinsofflicence.ie; wineonline.ie
Quisque ullamcorper enim vel tellus rhoncus et fermentum diam congue. Phasellus eu turpis lorem, id gravida nunc. In bibendum nulla vel quam pretium a fringilla erat ornare. Etiam hendrerit quam sed orci congue posuere laoreet urna condimentum. Nam vestibulum gravida semper. Maecenas ac nunc purus, et aliquam urna. Curabitur quis tellus vitae dolor tristique egestas. Fusce metus sem, accumsan vel auctor non, laoreet eget nulla. Donec lacinia elit ac nulla hendrerit at tincidunt justo facilisis. Praesent vel risus ut urna vestibulum fermentum. Pellentesque sollicitudin cursus blandit. In hac habitasse platea dictumst. Maecenas sed nulla sed lacus elementum dapibus. Praesent hendrerit semper tempor. Integer sollicitudin ultrices mattis.
Donec nec facilisis nisi. Vivamus tempor feugiat velit gravida vehicula. Donec faucibus pellentesque ipsum id varius. Ut rutrum metus sed neque ultricies a dictum ante sagittis. Proin in facilisis diam. Sed placerat imperdiet purus, id sollicitudin magna pretium sit amet. Vivamus orci dolor, iaculis at volutpat eget, fermentum vel quam. Nullam non neque urna, ut ultrices nisi. Nulla convallis aliquam tortor, a imperdiet massa aliquet vel. Cras eu ante turpis, ut ornare mauris. Maecenas orci erat, ullamcorper at semper in, sodales ac diam. Sed eu eleifend felis. Praesent fringilla, arcu id interdum egestas, ante lorem blandit leo, ac imperdiet velit sapien ac metus. Proin lectus sem, pellentesque eu consequat sed, pulvinar ut risus. Pellentesque ut rutrum mauris. Nunc id ante libero. Vestibulum luctus lectus nec neque tempor quis congue purus consequat.
Mauris suscipit porta commodo. Pellentesque mattis interdum nibh sit amet sodales. Curabitur euismod sem in dui cursus et faucibus leo dignissim. Integer non porttitor leo. Integer luctus adipiscing dui nec tempor. Pellentesque convallis ullamcorper dui ornare mattis. Class aptent taciti sociosqu ad litora torquent per conubia nostra, per inceptos himenaeos. Donec tincidunt urna in est sodales tempor. Integer libero nunc, auctor a tristique ut, scelerisque ut felis. Phasellus quis magna nisl, id sagittis dolor. Nunc interdum arcu at ligula imperdiet rhoncus aliquam massa posuere.
Vestibulum non libero in quam vestibulum dignissim a sed sem. Nullam vitae est vitae urna rhoncus sollicitudin. Ut congue lacus molestie augue gravida vitae auctor tortor ornare. Vestibulum sollicitudin vestibulum urna ut tempus. Duis eget dui placerat dui interdum fermentum. Cras lorem nunc, elementum vitae rhoncus quis, aliquet vel erat. Duis elementum justo sed velit mattis semper. Maecenas vel lacus vel nulla suscipit tincidunt in quis nulla. Duis sed metus vitae nunc euismod lobortis.
Phasellus molestie congue molestie. Nullam tempus eros et lorem auctor imperdiet. Donec eget imperdiet tortor. Morbi lobortis rutrum eros eu iaculis. Vivamus venenatis consectetur metus et ullamcorper. Pellentesque tincidunt dictum augue, at sollicitudin mi venenatis eget. Etiam sit amet nisi quis lacus ullamcorper interdum. Etiam at urna eu nunc mattis varius. Phasellus ultricies congue convallis. Fusce vulputate, lectus quis viverra bibendum, est enim interdum velit, sit amet sodales tellus enim id mi.
Aenean eget dui eros, non lobortis lectus. Vestibulum eleifend laoreet orci ac elementum. Nulla lacinia, orci et sollicitudin ullamcorper, massa risus porta felis, id egestas dolor diam et risus. Pellentesque convallis leo eget lacus cursus dapibus. Sed in nisl at nisi semper malesuada sed fringilla augue. Quisque venenatis felis non velit placerat tincidunt. Suspendisse potenti. Praesent fermentum malesuada placerat. Phasellus pretium interdum neque, nec accumsan tortor lacinia ut. Fusce eget orci nunc, non sagittis augue. Donec sodales, erat fermentum aliquam interdum, magna metus condimentum ante, nec imperdiet purus sem ac dui. Maecenas enim sapien, ultricies id feugiat nec, blandit at velit.
Fusce laoreet risus et dui sodales et fringilla lorem pellentesque. Nulla sagittis lobortis lorem eget vulputate. Integer malesuada facilisis nisl nec egestas. Suspendisse scelerisque tincidunt urna condimentum pretium. Phasellus id risus lorem, at consectetur tellus. Sed eget dolor lectus. Etiam vitae sapien libero. Vivamus nunc diam, pulvinar eleifend tincidunt tincidunt, tristique eget erat. Maecenas eleifend, erat ac ullamcorper varius, metus diam condimentum elit, quis sollicitudin enim nisl nec metus. Vivamus non lectus eget ipsum egestas ornare sed sit amet libero.
