Bourgogne Chardonnay 2022 Bernard Defaix

Vibrant pure crystalline green apples with a lovely stony mineral edge and a bone dry, slightly austere finish. Superior to many Chablis at around the same price – or more.

€29 from Wine Pair, Dublin 8; D-Six off licence, Dublin 6; Martins off licence, Dublin 3.

Bourgogne Chardonnay, like its red counterpart Bourgogne Pinot Noir, can offer great value for money. It all depends on who makes it and what part of Burgundy it comes from. Wines from the Mâconnais and other parts of southern Burgundy tend to be richer and more textured in style. Cooler regions in the north are generally crisp and mineral with racy green fruits.

Domaine Bernard Defaix produces some very fine complex Chablis from his own vineyards, which includes some premiers crus. He also buys in grapes from other growers. The Defaix Bourgogne Chardonnay is made from bought-in grapes, but it stood out as offering great value for money at a recent tasting in Dublin.