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Le Bois du Cerf 2022, Domaine Vico, Corsica

Le Bois du Cerf 2022, Domaine Vico, Corsica

I am a fan of Corsican wine but hadn’t tasted the red wine from Domaine Vico until last weekend. It is very nicely balanced with intense ripe but savoury dark cherries, liquorice and dried herbs, and some drying tannins on the finish. Definitely one worth trying. It went perfectly with my beef cheeks with mushrooms.

€28.95 from Mitchell & Son, Sandycove and Harcourt Cellars; The Wine centre, Kilkenny; J.J. O’Driscoll, Cork; Myles Creek, Kilkee.

This is made from two local grape varieties whose origins are shrouded in mystery. Some argue that Niellucciu is a clone of Sangiovese, others that it is uniquely Corsican. The other variety, Sciaccarellu is probably also Italian in origin, but both have been grown on Corsicaa for centuries, probably brought from Italy by the Genoese who ruled the island for centuries. Apparently Niellucciu provides the colour, structure and tannins, and Sciaccarellu the elegance, fruit and finesse.

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Dinamica Baga 2023, Filipa Pato & William Wouters, Bairrada, Portugal

Dinamica Baga 2023, Filipa Pato & William Wouters, Bairrada, Portugal

This is a delicious, fresh, light, lively wine with wonderful pure black and red cherry fruits. There is a savoury element, and a minerality but the overall impression is one of clean ripe fruit. This is fantastic value for money.

I imagine it would go well with pork dishes and charcuterie as it has the acidity to cut through light but rich foods.

12% abv.
€21 – €22

Stockists MacCurtain Wine Cellar, Cork; Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown; 64 Wine, Glasthule & Mount Merrion; Clontarf Wines; Martin’s, Dublin 3; Baggot Street Wines.

This wine is made from the Baga grape variety, which is often high in both tannins and acidity – not an attractive combination. However the Dinamico and their other wines made from Baga are perfectly balanced, ripe, and easy to drink.

Filipa Pato is the daughter of Luís Pato, one of Portugal’s most revered wine producers. She and her Belgian husband William Wouters have their own estate in Bairrada where they produce “vinhos autênticos sem maquilhagem” or authentic wines without make-up, using only indigenous grape varieties including Baga, Bical, Arinto, Cercial and Maria Gomes. Sparkling, red and white wines are all great, with a seductive delicacy and freshness.

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Fonte do Ouro 2017, Dâo Tinto

Fonte do Ouro 2017, Dâo Tinto

Delicious medium-bodied red with savoury dark fruits, well-integrated acidity and a smooth dry finish with a touch of spice. Great value too.

A very adaptable red, perfect with all manner of pork dishes, but big enough to accompany lamb or beef.

 

€13.95, down from €16.95 from O’Briens, obrienswine.ie

I have a grá for Dâo, both the red and white versions. The whites, usually with a high proportion of Encruzado, can be exceptional. The best reds have a lovely piquant edge, good acidity and an elegance that I really enjoy.

 

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Arinto 2018, Vinho Verde, Quinta Picouto de Cima

Arinto 2018, Vinho Verde, Quinta Picouto de Cima

Made from 100% Arinto, this Vinho Verde has stimulating racy green apple fruits, and a light sparkle; slakes the thirst and gets the mouth watering. 12.5% alcohol.

 

As an aperitif with nibbles, raw seafood, sushi or oily fish such as mackerel.

Vinho Verde has come on in leaps and bounds; these days fewer semi-sweet green herbaceous wines and more light succulent and concentrated versions that are perfect with shellfish.

€11.95 down from €14.95 from O’Briens, obrienswine.ie

 

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Pinot Noir, Domaine de la Renne, Val de Loire

Pinot Noir, Domaine de la Renne, Val de Loire

This is a delicious summer red, light and juicy with crunchy red fruits. Gouleyant as the French would say, or very gluggable in English I couldn’t find a vintage on the label; possibly it was on the cork, long since recycled. Great summer drinking and good value too.

€14.15 from Wines Direct, Mullingar, and Arnott’s, Dublin 1, winesdirect.ie

We drank ours with pan-fried hake, new potatoes and the very last of the season’s asparagus.

Loire Pinot has been improving steadily in recent years, possibly partly due to climate change, but also better viticulture and winemaking. It also helps that our tastes have shifted a little towards lighter wines.

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Solto Escola 2016, Vinho Verde, Portugal

Solto Escola 2016, Vinho Verde, Portugal

Perfect on a warm summer’s eve; light, a mere 12%, and refreshing with vibrant citrus and peach fruits. Despite the lightness, it has good concentration and length. Great value for money too.

We drank this with some queen scallops simply seared with butter and lemon juice.

Vinho Verde has come on in leaps and bounds; these days fewer semi-sweet green herbaceous wines and more light succulent and concentrated versions that are perfect with shellfish. Anselmo Mendes seems to have a hand in just about everything that is going on in this part of Portugal. Not only does he have his own winery (available through Wines on the Green) but he advises a number of other producers too. Including this one.

€13.95 from Searsons, Monkstown, searsons.com; Brady’s, Shankhill, bradysshankhill.ie; Bradleys Off-licence, Cork, bradleysofflicence.ie; The Cinnamon Cottage, Cork, cinnamoncottage.ie; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock, jusdevine.ie; J.J. Fields, Skibbereen, fieldsofskibbereen.com; Lilac Wines, Dublin 3, lilacwines.ie; Martin’s Off Licence, Dublin 3, martinsofflicence.ie; Deveney’s, Dundrum; Objekt, Newcastle West, object.ie

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Colinas del Itata Old Vines Muscat 2017, Itata

Colinas del Itata Old Vines Muscat 2017, Itata

ITATA

 

Inviting delicate perfumed floral aromas; juicy, really lively orange peel and apricot fruits, with a lovely musky kick on the finish. A delightful wine and outstanding value for money.

 

Lightly spicy prawn or chicken Thai curries.

 

I featured the 2014 vintage of his wine a few years ago. The 2017 is, I think, even better. The wine is made from 110-year old vines planted in Itata, one of the first vineyards to be planted by the Spanish conquistadors when they arrived in Chile.

 

€15 from Marks & Spencer

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Ramon Roqueta Tina 3 Garnacha 2016, Calatayud

Ramon Roqueta Tina 3 Garnacha 2016, Calatayud

ramon roqueta1

 

This is a very moreish all-purpose wine that offers great value for money. Medium-bodied juicy ripe strawberry fruits with plenty of concentration and real oomph on the mid-palate, and a smooth rounded finish.

 

A good match for most red meats or pork; I had mine with mildly spiced lamb kofte and a tomato salsa.

 

€14 from Mitchell & Son, chq, Sandycove, and Avoca, Kilmacanogue & Dunboyne, mitchellandson.com.

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Ciello Bianco 2016, Catarratto, Cantine Rallo, IGT Terre Siciliane

Ciello Bianco 2016, Catarratto, Cantine Rallo, IGT Terre Siciliane

ciello-biancoCiello Bianco 2016, Catarratto, Cantine Rallo, IGT Terre Siciliane

Vibrant and bright with juicy peaches and almonds, balanced nicely by lemon zest acidity, finishing dry.

A great all-purpose wine to sip before dinner, or with a wide variety of lighter seafood dishes or salads. Perfect lunchtime wine.

An organic wine produced from Catarratto, one of Sicily’s indigenous grape varieties. In fact, it is the most popular variety, making up 30% of all plantings, and was used primarily in Marsala production. Wines made from low-yielding vines in good soils can be very tasty, although there is still a lot of very average wines on sale. This is one of the good guys.

€12.95 from Baggot St. Wines; Clontarf Wines; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Blackrock Cellar; Green Man Wines, Terenure; MacGuinness Wines, Dundalk; Bradley’s Off Licence, Cork; Le Caveau, Kilkenny.

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Jaspi Negre 2014, Coca I Fitó, Montsant

Jaspi Negre 2014, Coca I Fitó, Montsant

jaspi negreJaspi Negre 2014, Coca I Fitó, Montsant

Full-bodied and powerful with masses of plush smooth red fruits, a savoury edge, and well-integrated smooth tannins on the finish. An iron fist in a velvet glove?

Try this with hard cheeses or grilled red meats. A côte de bouef sounds right.

Catalan brothers Toni and Miquel Coca i Fitó work with small growers from lesser-known regions in various parts of Spain to produce wines that reflect the local terroir. The Jaspi Negre above is a blend of 45% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 15% Cabernet and 15% Syrah. Montsant is a large C-shaped region, almost completely surrounding Priorat, high up in the mountains south-west of Barcelona.

€14.95 down from €16.95 from O’Briens, Obrienswine.ie

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