Slow Dão with wines from Portugal’s answer to Burgundy

For some Dão is Portugal’s finest wine region, yet few wine drinkers have a clear picture of what the wines are like. It is often mentioned as Portugal’s answer to Burgundy. There are certain similarities; both produce lighter wines with good acidity, low in tannin, and sometimes low in alcohol too. Both wines seduce gently with perfume, finesse and elegance rather than power. But whereas Pinot Noir often tastes sweet (although it is bone dry) to me Dão is more savoury and often spicy with damson fruits – more like a Syrah from the Northern Rhône if you want a comparison.

Either way, Dão certainly deserves much more of our attention. Not only does it offer some great red wines at reasonably prices, it also produces some excellent dry white wines too. Both red and white wines (it is 80 per cent red) are made from Portuguese grape varieties.

Dão is a largish region in central northern Portugal. Circled by mountains, and therefore protected from both the Atlantic rains and the blasting heat of the interior, it has relatively dry, warm summers, perfect for the slow ripening of grapes. The granitic soils give good acidity, and the altitude (200-600m) keeps things cool too.

Winemaking skills

For many years, the region, although well-known, was held back by a bizarre law that obliged growers to sell their grapes to the local co-op, which often lacked the necessary winemaking skills. The result was large quantities of very dull tannic wines. But in recent years, there has been a blossoming of local talent, as well as an influx of other Portuguese winemakers. Not only are the wines far better, they are very reasonably priced too.

Two red grapes are worth special mention. This is the home of touriga macional, one of Portugal’s greatest grape varieties. You will also come across jaen, known as mencía in Galicia, a variety with huge potential. Then there is tinta roriz (Tempranillo) and alfrocheiro. For white wines, there is encruzado, possibly Portugal’s greatest white variety. It all adds up to an area that offers real excitement. At the less expensive end, the wines can be fabulously perfumed and lightly fruity. If you like less heavy wines, there are some real bargains, but the more expensive wines are great value too.

There is a limited range on offer in our shops, but it includes some great wines. I have already featured Touriga Nacional Rui Reguinga 2013 (€24.50, Terroirs,  Donnybrook) and Jardim da Estrela 2014, an amazing €13 from Quintessential Wines. Both are well worth trying, as are the excellent FP wines from Filipa Pato in next-door Bairrada. If you travel to Portugal on holiday, I suspect there might be greater availability over there. jwilson@irishtimes.com

Paço dos Cunhas de Santar Nature 2012 (organic), Dão

14%

Wonderful smooth elegant dark fruits with light tannins on the finish.

McHugh’s; Martins; Baggot St Wines; Corkscrew; Donnybrook Fair; Morton’s Galway; Sweeney’s.

Dâo Rótulo 2015, Niepoort, Portugal

12.5%

€16.95

Delicious refreshing light red with a savoury edge to the clean damson fruits.

Stockists: Grapevine; Morton’s Ranelagh; Drinkstore; Redmonds; Baggot St Wines; Martins.

Quinta dos Carvalhais Encruzado 2015

13%

€29.99

Softly spicy with vibrant citrus and pear fruits. Engaging and sophisticated wine.

Stockists: Baggot St. Wines; Redmonds; Corkscrew.

Bargain Wine

Ribeiro Santos 2014 Dão

13.5%

€14.95

Harmonious pure damson and dark cherry fruits. Perfect with duck breast or pork. Excellent value.

Stockists: Fresh Outlets, La Touche, The Coachouse; Power & Co; D Six; Nectar; McGuinness Wines; Green Man Wines, Corkscrew.

Ten Places to find a Decent Glass of Wine in Ireland

First published in the Irish Times Saturday 18th March, 2017

A few years ago, I got in touch with wine distributors around the country and asked them to name a few of their favourite haunts, places where they could order a glass of decent wine. It didn’t seem a big ask, just half a dozen or more interesting wines served in a proper wine glass, but privately the majority expressed a deep frustration with their local offering. Things have changed for the better.

Many hotels continue to serve industrial quality Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and other standard names at exorbitant prices, but it seems that some pubs at least are starting to see the light, and are now serving a small rotating range of interesting wines at reasonable prices. The big move over the last few years has come from wine shops. A number of them now morph into wine bars in the early evening, or have a separate mini-wine bar attached. It is all about the wine and not the food, which is usually pretty basic (cold meats or cheese) and mark-ups are a fraction of those in a full-blown restaurant.

Corkage fee

As well as having plenty of wines by the glass, many allow you to choose any wine from the shelves, adding a corkage fee of €5-€10. This makes it worthwhile buying a bottle of something really good. For the moment, most seem to be in the greater Dublin area, and include Grapevine in Dalkey, Green Man, Terenure, Baggot Street Wines, La Touche in Greystones, 64 Wine and Mitchell & Son in Glasthule, Whelehan’s in Loughlinstown and Fallon & Byrne on Exchequer Street. All of these are well worth trying out if you like wine.

My top 10 is regionally balanced. I haven’t been to every one of these, but I have fairly reliable spies in most corners of the country. Ely wine bars can claim to be daddy of them all, now celebrating 15 years of trading, offering a superb selection of 80 wines by the glass. They have now teamed up with 64 Wine in Glasthule; the outcome is awaited with interest.

Of the newer establishments in Dublin, Piglet, on Cows Lane in Temple Bar, is a wine bar or osteria. They offer a great range of wines by the glass, alongside some amazingly good food, and Green Man Wines in Terenure would be a regular haunt if I lived slightly nearer.

The place to go

Moving southwards, I hear great things about the wine selection in The Tannery wine bar in Dungarvan. L’Atitude51 is the place to go in Cork city. Lively and fun, there is always a great range of wines open. Likewise, The Black Pig in Kinsale. Galway has Cava Bodega and Martine’s but I love the fascinating wines offered by Sheridan’s Wine Bar– and of course the cheeses. Westport has the eclectic Gallery Wine Bar, although if you prefer a more traditional atmosphere, McGings offers five wines by the glass, alongside excellent pints and local beers. I have yet to make it to Hargadons in Sligo, but everyone tells me I should make the trip. In Belfast, Cave, part of the excellent Ox restaurant, is a lovely pared-down wine bar with an eclectic list of wines, and, as you might expect, some very nice nibbles too.

I have missed anyone out, feel free to send me an email.

The first readers to email/tweet me regarding omissions were fans of Stanley’s excellent wine bar & restaurant on Andrew Street in Dublin 2. It certainly has one of the best, most eclectic lists in the country, plus a great range of interesting sherry by the glass.

Irish Cognac & French Whiskey

First published in the Irish Times, March 11th, 2017

In the 18th century, Irish businessmen were very prominent in the Cognac region. Two houses are direct descendants of Irish families and many others had strong Irish connections. These are detailed by historian Louis Cullen in his book The Irish Brandy Houses of 18th-Century France (Lilliput Press).

Hennessy is well-known. The family has been involved in Cognac since 1724 and there are still several Hennessys involved. Maurice travels the world as brand ambassador, as well as selling grapes from his vineyard to Hennessy. His brother Frédéric lives in the original Hennessy homestead in Cork. The Hennessy three-star is very popular in this country. Richard Hennessy created the first XO for his friends. The current version is a real treat.

Delftware

The other “Irish” house is Delamain. Nicolas Delamain settled in Ireland in 1639. His descendent Henry was the first in Ireland to fire delftware with coals, examples of which can be seen in the National Museum, and were illustrated in a series of stamps. Henry’s nephew James Delamain moved from Dublin to France and, in 1759, formed a partnership with his father-in-law, proprietor of one of the oldest cognac houses. The company is still owned and run by two descendants of the original Delamain, and is one of the only family-owned companies in Cognac.

Delamain is unique amongst cognac houses in that it produces no three-star or VSOP cognac. The entry level is an XO, and that is made from 25-year-old spirits (XO or extra old needs only to be six years old). They do not add caramel or syrup to make it darker and sweeter, hence the name Pale & Dry. It is my favourite Cognac.

Method & Madness

Irish Distillers, by far the largest producer of Irish whiskey, is now owned by French company Pernod Ricard. They have just released four new whiskeys under the banner of Method & Madness. These are intended to be a blend of curiosity and intrigue (the madness), with the tradition and expertise at Midleton Distillery (the method).  Each is distilled or aged in a different way, giving it a unique flavour. Prices run from €49 to €79. Other new releases include Roe & Co, a new premium blended whiskey from Diageo, named after George Roe, who in the 19th century ran the largest distillery in Thomas Street. It is deliciously smooth, rich and concentrated. Down the road Teeling have released the third bottling of The Revival Single Malt, a 14-year-old whiskey aged in Pineau de Charentes casks priced at €120.

Method & Madness Single Pot Still Whiskey French Chestnut Finish

46%

€69

Finished in French Chestnut barrels, this is a superb whiskey brimming with spice and subtle dried fruits ending with a lingering rich complex woody note.

Stockists: Specialist off-licences and Duty-free.

Delamain Pale & Dry X.O. Grande Champagne Cognac

40%

€82

A slightly lighter (hence the name) and more delicate cognac, but certainly not lacking in flavour. Exquisite, smooth rounded and complex fruits.

Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Baggot Street Wines.

Hennessy X.O. Cognac

40%

€140

Richer in style than the Delamain, but equally attractive – spice, leather, vanilla and oak. smooth

Stockists: widely available.

Bargain Wine:

Craft 3 Chenin Blanc 2015, Stellenbosch, South Africa

12.5%

€15

Lightly floral nose with crisp apple fruits, a touch of honey, a hint of caramel, wand a dry finish. Plump and very moreish.

Stockists: Marks & Spencer