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Enjoying Nebbiolo a rite of passage for wine nerds

Posted by on March 5, 2017

“Do people really drink that?” a student asked me a few years ago on taking her first ever mouthful of Nebbiolo. This variety, from Piemonte in northeastern Italy, makes some of the country’s finest wines. But with its firm dark impenetrable fruit, high acidity and swingeing tannins, Nebbiolo can never be described as easy-drinking. These are wines for the aesthete rather than the hedonist .

Before you stop reading, two things: first of all, most Nebbiolo nowadays is made in a much more approachable style than in times past. Secondly, as with all wines, you need to drink it in the right setting. Arm yourself with a bowl of tajarín, the fine egg-rich pasta of the region, accompanied by wild mushrooms, white truffles, rabbit or a beef ragù, or maybe a risotto, or agnolotti del plin (little folds of pasta stuffed with meat), or maybe simply some roast game or aged parmesan, and Nebbiolo begins to make perfect sense. The food of Piemonte, centred on the towns of Alba and Asti, is amongst Italy’s finest. So are the wines.

Enjoying Nebbiolo is almost a rite of passage for real wine nerds. Tannic and alcoholic they may be, but really good Nebbiolo also has fleeting aromas of violets and perfume, an array of supremely elegant complex fruits that have you scrabbling for adjectives  – leather, truffles, black olives, tar, licorice, wood smoke and much more besides. Those tannins allow the wines to age and improve for decades in great vintages.

Patchwork of vineyards

The grape reaches its finest expression in the two small towns of Barolo and Barbaresco, both on the valley floor, surrounded by vineyards high up the slopes, peeking through a shroud of swirling mist. Often called the Burgundy of Italy, the region has a similar patchwork of tiny vineyards, with holdings scattered throughout. As in Burgundy, each sub-region, each vineyard, every change in height and exposure is reflected in the wines. Sadly, the prices are fairly Burgundian too.

In the past, many young men and women deserted the region for the two big local employers – Fiat in Turin and the massive Ferrero chocolate plant, manufacturers of Nutella and Ferrero Rocher, which gobbles up one of the region’s other great products, hazelnuts. Nowadays, farmers with a field or two in either town own a very valuable asset.

There are plenty of other wines produced in the region, including the more approachable Barbera and Dolcetto, as well as some good white wines, but Nebbiolo is the undoubted king, and Barolo and Barbaresco its finest expression. Langhe Nebbiolo is their Bourgogne Rouge: in the right hands it is much more approachable and often good value. Further north in Piemonte, Proprietà Sperino produces silkier wines with a lovely mineral streak.

Langhe Nebbiolo 2014, Massolino, 13.5%, €29.99
Fragrant violets and redcurrants; tangy, elegant, approachable wine with light tannins on the finish.
Stockists: Fresh Outlets, Dublin; Blackrock Cellar.

Proprieta Sperino Costa della Sesia Rosso
Uvaggio 2012, 12.5%, €39.99
A Nebbiolo blend. Scented, floral, laced with herbs; lingering fruits; an utter delight.
Stockists: Terroirs; Red Island; 64 Wine; Red Nose Wine

Massolino Barolo ‘Parafada’ 2012, 14%, €79.99
Beautifully aromatic, with intense structured robust dark fruits and a firm dark finish. Ideally keep it five years-plus.

Stockists: Corkscrew; Green Man Wines; Blackrock Cellar.

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How to buy a ‘nice’ bottle of wine

Posted by on February 26, 2017

First published in the Irish Times, Saturday 24th February, 2017

I worked in wine shops for several years and was always bemused me when a customer asked for a bottle of nice wine. What did they think I was going to recommend? My special reserve of disgusting, undrinkable wines? And yet I knew exactly what they meant – a wine that wasn’t too expensive, but offered more than your average bottle.

This is probably what we all want 90 per cent of the time, but it can be elusive. Standardised winemaking techniques mean it is all too easy to come across bland, broadly fruity, slightly confected wines, red and white, that won’t harm anyone but offer very little real enjoyment.

Finding a wine with a little character can be a more challenging. With our punitive tax regime, sadly the more interesting bottles will invariably cost €12-€15, if not more.

As with most working couples, during the week our dinner tends to be a fairly simple affair. In the colder months, I frequently throw plenty of vegetables into the oven to roast, usually butternut squash and/or potatoes, sweet potato, onions, red peppers, aubergines, and tomatoes, or cauliflower, leeks, mushrooms and beans.

The spicing varies according to my mood. With many vegetables, the best wine match would be rich white wine, but as we usually have some sort of grilled or roasted meat as well, I generally open up a red wine. In the winter months, I naturally gravitate towards red wine anyway.

Best partner

I don’t go into an elaborate thought process to choose the wine; I find light and medium-bodied reds offer the best partner for both roasted vegetables and grilled meat.

For lighter wines, I seek out Beaujolais, lighter Italian reds such as Barbera and Valpolicella, Pinots from Chile or New Zealand, or a lighter Cabernets from Australia.

In colder weather, I often drink these with fish as well. However, my favourite winter wines are medium-bodied reds with supple fruit, and around 13.5 per cent alcohol. I try to avoid over-oaked or over-alcoholic wines and I am becoming more and more frustrated with off-dry and medium-dry red wines.

So where to find a wine that delivers that little bit extra? Usually it will be made by smaller producers, although quality-conscious co-operatives can offer great value too.

It generally means avoiding the best-known names, such as Bordeaux and Burgundy. Bargains tend to be found in the biggest producer regions such as La Mancha in Spain, the Languedoc in France and parts of Italy. My favourite hunting grounds would also include much of Australia, Chile, the southern Rhône in France, and most of Portugal.

Today, four very nice red wines, all costing less than €15. I cannot promise that they will send you into paroxysms of joy, but I hope you will find them satisfying.

Image 6Le Mas 2015 Domaine Clavel, Languedoc, Organic

13.5%

€14.70

 

A hugely satisfying wine with rich red cherry fruits, spicy black peppers and nice grip on the finish. With lamb or beef dishes.

 

Stockists: Wines Direct, Mullingar

 

 

Image 1Ch. de Paraza Cuvée Spéciale, Minervois

13.5%

€12.95

 

On offer until 5thMarch. Medium-bodied with supple red and black fruits, black olives and herbs. A good all-rounder.

 

Stockists: O’Briens

 

 

DSCF7210Illuminati Riparosso 2015, Montepuliciano d’Abruzzo

13.5%

€14.95

 

Very seductive smooth warm dark fruits, with a touch of tobacco. Perfect with spicy lamb from Diana Henry’s Simple.

 

Stockists: SuperValu Ballinteer, Lucan, Charlesland, Blackrock, Deansgrange, Swords, Rathgar, Sundrive Road; Donnybrook Fair; Londis Terenure.

 

 

Image 5Faugères Les Collines 2014, Domaine Ollier Taillefer

13.5%

€14.85

 

Attractive savoury dark plums with a savoury touch. Went nicely with pork chops and mushrooms.

 

Stockists: Wines Direct, Mullingar

 

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Try the uncharted wine regions of southern Italy

Posted by on February 19, 2017

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 18th February, 2017

For many wine-lovers, the south of Italy is uncharted territory. If pushed, they might remember Salice Salentino and perhaps Primitivo. And yet, these are some of the oldest vineyards in the world. The entire region is coming down with little known indigenous grape varieties, most of which date back to Roman or Greek times. Today we skim the surface of three areas, each with their own unique wines.

Our journey starts in Campania, the area surrounding Naples and Salerno, dominated by the Campanian volcanic arc that includes Vesuvius and Campi Flegrei. We think of southern Italy as being hot. Yet the icy mountain slopes back from the coastline here have one of the latest harvests in the entire country, producing some excellent, vibrant white wines. We will look at those another time; today the reds.

Backhanded compliment

Aglianico is often called the Nebbiolo of the south – a slightly backhanded compliment. It may be the most long-lived, but the wines can be tough, dry, tannic and austere in their youth, especially those from the most revered, cooler sub-region of Taurasi. Instead of fruit, you often find liquorice, tobacco and dried spices. There are other red grape varieties in Campania: Coda di Volpe and Piedirosso are two ancient varieties, both producing softer, easy-drinking wines. Piedirosso, the second most-planted red, is often blended with Aglianico to soften those tannins. As well as Taurasi, Aglianico is found in Taburno and neighbouring Benevento. The high limestone content and volcanic deposits are said to give that tannic bite to Taurasi. Others are more forthcoming.

Devastated by decades of emigration to the Northern cities and the US, Calabria is the most obscure of the three regions. This is the “toe” of Italy. The most important grape here is Gaglioppo – you can rest assured that most wine buffs have never heard of this grape either, but it can produce perfumed, warming soft wines.

Stiletto heel

Lastly Puglia, or Apulia, the stiletto heel and calf of Italy. This long, narrow region is responsible for massive quantities of red wine. Negroamaro produces rich wines with dark fruits and plenty of oomph. Primitivo, the same grape as California’s Zinfandel, can produce wines high in alcohol, tannin and fruit. Some, including the example below, can be sensationally good. Sadly, not all reach such peaks; I tried a host of semi-sweet soft wines that desperately needed an injection of character. Less common is Uva di Troia (or Nero di Troia) possibly named after the city of Troy, which produces wines that range from soft and fruity to full-bodied and tannic.

Anyone looking to improve their knowledge of Italian wine should buy the newly released The Modern History of Italian Wine, edited by Walter Filiputti (Skira), a fascinating, unique look at the development of Italian wines over the last 50 years.

 

ImageSavuto Rosso DOC 2014, Colacino, Calabria

13%

€16.99

Moreish clean ripe blackberry and red cherry fruits

Stockists: Corkscrew; Green Man Wines; Blackrock Cellar; Wineonline.ie

 

 

 

DSCF7266Il Cancelliere Aglianico 2014, IGT Campania

14.5%

€18.95

 

Big powerful concentrated earthy dark fruits, with well-integrated tannins on the finish.

 

Stockists: Quintessential Wines, Drogheda; Atasteofitaly.ie; Morton’s; Hole in the Wall; The  Grapevine; Dublin 9; Martins.

 

DSCF6603Primitivo Lamie dell Vigne 2012, Masseria Guttarolo, Puglia

14%

€24

 

A delicious, full-bodied wine with intense ripe dark fruits, lovely acidity and leathery length. I love it.

 

Stockists: 64 Wine; Green Man; Mitchell & Son; Sheridan’s.

 

 

 

 

Bargain Wine

 

Image 1Le Vigne di Sammarco Uve di Troia 2014, Puglia

13%

€14.85

 

Smooth, medium-bodied ripe plum and black cherry fruits. Mid-week with pork chops?

 

Stockists: Wines Direct, Mullingar

 

 

 

 

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Get ready for the best Burgundy vintage since 1929

Posted by on February 12, 2017

Image 19

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 11th February, 2017

Burgundy has given me more pleasure (and at times heartache) than any other wine. But now supply, always a problem, is diminishing and growing ever more expensive. Now along comes the 2015 vintage, heralded by some as the greatest since 1929.

Prices are moving steadily upwards and quantities are even more limited than usual, 20-30 per cent less than in 2014. Three importers are offering en primeur access to 2015 Burgundy, with another to follow later this year. This means buying wine that is still in the cask that will be delivered later this year or in early 2018.

There is no doubt that 2015 was an excellent year for red wines; leaving aside the hype (and there is no shortage of that) most are laden with perfectly ripe, succulent fruit, excellent concentration and good acidic balance. In a generally warm and dry growing season, the biggest danger seems to be low acidity, and an oversupply of sugar leading to high alcohol levels – in a region that traditionally struggles to ripen grapes.

Liam Cabot of Cabot and Co says “2015 is an outstanding vintage – it’s a vintage of real pleasure and enjoyment – the wines will drink well from release, yet have the structure to age. Many are comparing it to 2005, but those of a slightly older generation also point as far back as 1949 and 1929. Although prices are rising, it is possible to find classic wines that will deliver real pleasure at very reasonable prices.”

‘Incredible balance’

Charles Derain of Nomad Wines will wait until June to make his offer. He is equally positive. “The grapes”, he says, “were absolutely healthy, beautiful to eat. Everything I have tried so far has been outstanding, reminding me of 2005. The wines have incredible balance and structure. I have tried some super Bourgogne Hautes de Beaune and Nuits 2015 that will give great value.”

Conor Richardson of Burgundy Direct, making his 25th Burgundy offer, agrees. “2015 is excellent, possibly outstanding . . . Burgundy lovers in particular can only be hugely impressed by this very, very fine vintage”. Donal Morris of Greenacres reports “the reds are superb and certainly the best since 2005, even surpassing it. They have a lovely purity of fruit, a luscious concentration and are very fragrant. And this is right across the region.”

No matter how good the vintage, poor winemakers make average wine. Buy from producers (and importers) you can trust. If your budget doesn’t stretch to buying wine by the caseload, keep an eye out for the underrated 2014 Burgundies. I would also set aside a few euro for 2015 (and 2016) from the Northern Rhône, as well as Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) and Riesling from Germany. Burgundy 2015, including some of the finest estates, is being offered by Cabot and Co, Burgundy Direct, Greenacres and Searsons.

DSCF7240Côte de Nuits Villages 2014, Jean-Marc Millot

13%

€34.95

 

Lovely meaty succulent dark fruits, with a savoury edge.

 

Stockists: Grapevine, Dalkey; Cabot & Co, Westport.

 

 

DSCF7257Domaine Robert Groffier, Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains 2013

13%

€25

 

Bright fresh dark cherry fruits with a lovely succulent quality. Rounded and dense.

 

Stockists: Greenacres, Wexford.

 

 

DSCF7228Givry Pied de Chaume 2014, Domaine Joblot

13%

€35

 

Richly concentrated, with firm dark fruits and excellent structure. Drink or keep a year or two.

 

Stockists: La Touche, Greystones; Burgundy Direct; 64wine.

 

 

Bargain Bottle

 

DSCF7242Coteaux Bourguignons 2015, Joseph Drouhin

12.5%

€14.95

 

Light refreshing cherries and raspberries with a leafy touch.

 

Stockists: La Touche, Greystones; Jus de Vine; Grapevine; McHugh’s; Donnybrook Fair.

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The Best Off-licence in Ireland

Posted by on February 7, 2017

First published in the Irish Times, Saturday 4th February, 2017

Blackrock Cellar: well-trained staff, free delivery and a vast and eclectic selection of interesting drinks

Location is everything, and not just for your property investment portfolio. Wisdom has it that a wine shop or off-licence should be situated well away from competition, the supermarkets in particular. It also needs to have easy access to ample free parking, enabling customers to drop in and pick up a case of wine. So what possessed Frenchman Joel Durand to start up Blackrock Cellar on the busy main street of Blackrock, with very limited parking and competition in the form of two large shopping centres, each featuring a major supermarket with a reputation for its wine selection?

Five years on, Blackrock Cellar is still there, boasting one of the finest selections of wine, craft beer and spirits in the country. Recently it won the ultimate drinks-business Oscar, the Noffla National Off-licence of the Year award. The premises first opened as a branch of UK off-licence chain Oddbins in 1997. When Oddbins ran into difficulties, its four Irish stores closed down, bequeathing the Irish wine trade a cohort of well-trained individuals, many of whom have achieved success elsewhere. Durand had been working at the Blackrock branch and knew it had potential. Prior to that, he trained as a chef in France, working there and at restaurants in Italy and the UK.

“At first, we were going to do just wine, but it didn’t make sense,” says Durand, “Oddbins had been importing quality beer and were always running out. So craft beer has been there from the start and has really helped us.” As for the supermarkets, he thinks they help each other. “SuperValu are not the worst neighbours,” he says. “I can’t do the big-label brands and they cannot stock all the small producers we do.”

It took a while to get the landlords’ agreement, but they finally opened in March 2012. Two months later, Durand contracted a flesh-eating bacterial infection from a small shoulder wound. “The staff in St Vincent’s were fantastic,” he says. “I made so many great friends there; the doctor is now my customer.’ Six months and 40 operations later, he went back to work.

So how does Blackrock Cellar survive? Basically by doing things the supermarkets can’t: having well-trained staff, a vast (450 wines, about 450 craft beers, and copious spirits) and eclectic selection of interesting drinks, free local delivery and a lively online presence. More than anything, it is a friendly, really well-run shop.

Other Noffla winners include Jus de Vine in Portmarnock, which won the Wine Specialist of the Year award for a record 10th time; McHugh’s in Artane, which grabbed the beer award; and Redmond’s of Ranelagh, which not for the first time carried off the Spirits Specialist award.

Three of this week’s wines were chosen by Joel Durand, while Julie Cullen of Jus de Vine selected the Vigneti Zabu.

Image 3Le Petit Caboche 2015, VDP de Vaucluse Domaine du Père Caboche

13.5%

€14.95

‘A baby Châteauneuf du Pape, with dollops of red fruit and warm, spicy flavours. Moreish to dangerous!’

Stockists: Blackrock Cellars.

 

 

 

 

Image 1Vigneti Zabu Il Passo 2015, Sicily

13.5%

€17.99

‘A rich ripasso style red from Sicily – a real winter warmer!’

Stockists: Jus De Vine; 64 Wine; Blackrock Cellar; Callans; Donnybrook Fair; Drink Store; Grapevine; Martins; McHughs; Red Island: Wine Well; World Wide Wines.

 

 

 

ImageCa De Frati 2015, Lugana

13%

€22.95

‘A staff favourite; floral, aromatic and full of ripe and vibrant fruit. Just great.’

Stockists: Blackrock Cellar; Corkscrew; Clontarf Wines; Donnybrook Fair

Deveney’s Dundrum; Drink Store; Fallon & Byrne; Grapevine; Jus de Vine; La Touche; Martins; Red Nose; Sweeney’s; Wineonline.ie; World Wide Wines.

 

 

 

Bargain Wine

Image 4Sangoma Chenin Blanc 2015

13%

€12.95

‘A cracker at the price – the label doesn’t do it justice; it is very nice inside. Fresh perfumes, crisp apples, pineapple and hay, clean and dry.’

Stockists: Blackrock Cellars; Bradleys; Leopardstown Inn; Martins.

 

 

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A host of new Irish whiskies including one for €260

Posted by on January 31, 2017

ImageFirst published in The Irish Times, Saturday 28th January, 2017

On a wonderful, crisp, clear, sunny morning last December, I headed up to the beautiful Ballydowling Wood in Glenealy, Co Wicklow. There, I watched a 150-year-old native Irish oak tree being felled. The tree was destined to become an oak barrel, (in fact three to four barrels) used to mature and season the latest edition of Midleton Dair Ghaelach, the unique single-pot-still whiskey that is aged in virgin Irish oak.

Gabriel Fernández Rodríguez of the Madebar sawmill in Galicia was on hand to approve the quality of the wood, and to work out how many barrels he could garner from this tree, as was master cooper Ger Buckley, along with Irish Distillers head blender Billy Leighton and head of maturation Kevin O’Gorman. All three have been involved in this fascinating exercise for the last seven years.

The forest, sustainably farmed by Coillte, was one of the first to be managed under the Native Woodland Scheme, and part of the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification. Along with 11 others, the felled tree would go on a trip to Galicia, where Gabriel and his father would saw them into staves. Then the staves would be transported to Jerez in the south of Spain, to be seasoned for 15 months and fashioned into 250-litre casks, before being returned to Ireland some two years later. Back home, they will be filled with some of the finest old single-pot-still whiskey. All being well, this will become the third release of Dair Ghaelach. Each bottle will be traceable back to a specific barrel and the individual tree.

A few specialist off-licences still have stocks of the first release of Dair Ghaelach, yours for about €260. The next release is planned for later this year.

Irish Whiskey Magazine

Further whiskey news: Irish Whiskey Magazine, run by a group of very knowledgeable enthusiasts, is, I think, our first specialist publication about Irish whiskey. See irishwhiskeymagazine.com for subscription details.

Whiskey aficionados will soon be flocking to city-centre Dublin. We already have the Irish Whiskey Museum on Grafton Street and the Teeling distillery in the Liberties. They will soon be joined, in March, by the refurbished Jameson visitor centre in the Smithfield area of Dublin 7, followed by the Pearse Lyons Distillery in the renovated deconsecrated St James’s Church in Dublin 8.

In the meantime, I would be tempted to take the train to Killarney and the Irish Whiskey Experience to enjoy one of their 50-minute courses covering various aspects of Irish whiskey and how to enjoy it (see irishwhiskeyexperience.net for details).

While in Kerry, a visit to Dingle Distillery would certainly be on the cards too. Alternatively, the Kilkenny Whiskey Guild is a group of 10 establishments in the city, all of whom offer at least 60 whiskies, served by a trained bartender.

Image 7Redbreast 12 year old Single Pot Still Whiskey

40%

€59

One of my favourite whiskeys, and very well priced; dried fruits, raisins, toasted hazelnuts and coffee in a delicious warming spirit.

Stockists: Widely available

 

 

 

 

Image 1Teeling 10 year-old Single Cask Amarone Finish Whiskey

46%

€65

Deliciously richly fruity with raisins, toasted almonds and caramel. A limited edition made exclusively for O’Briens, using Amarone casks from Musella, one of their suppliers. It works really well.

 

Stockists: O’Briens.

 

 

 

 

IMG_2976Tipperary Knockmealdowns 10 year-old Whiskey

47%

€70

Chocolate, vanilla and butterscotch with a touch of honey.

Stockists: Celtic Whiskey and other independent off-licences.

 

 

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The problem with Dry January

Posted by on January 23, 2017

First published in The Irish Times, January 14th, 2017

I have given up giving up. I don’t avoid alcohol in January or November. Throughout the year, I try not to drink on Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday. I dismiss most research showing the positive effects of alcohol, but reckon that wine and beer have been around for more than 5,000 years, so a moderate consumption is unlikely to harm me.

I post my consumption online every week, and it usually consists of six bottles, enjoyed by two or more of us over four nights. Not all are empty either, but under current HSE guidelines, I am still probably drinking too much. The HSE advises no more than 11 standard drinks a week for women and 17 for men. For wine, a standard drink is 100ml. (35.5ml for spirits, and half-pint for beer), much smaller than the average serving in a pub, restaurant or at home. A measure often contains two or more standard drinks. Ely Wine Bars are one of the few establishments to provide a marking on the glass. Their 187.5 ml serving is a ¼ bottle of wine.

The HSE guidelines are for wines with 12.5 per cent alcohol; most wines contain more, and it can be challenging to work out how many units you are drinking. One (industry-sponsored) website explained that multiplying the alcoholic volume of a wine by 0.8 (the alcoholic density of wine) gives you the grams of alcohol. So 12.5 multiplied by .8 = 10 grams of alcohol in a 100ml serving which represents one unit. A 15 per cent bottle of wine (12 grams of alcohol per 100ml) has nine units, while a lighter German Riesling Kabinett might contain 6.5.

Three pints

Binge-drinking is defined as six units or more at one sitting. If, over the course of an evening meal, you have an aperitif, followed by a glass of white wine with your starter and two generous glasses of red wine with your main course, you are a binge drinker. Or if you consume more than three pints of beer or three glasses of wine on a night out. This probably includes a sizeable portion of the Irish population.

We already have the highest tax on wine in Europe, so pricing may have a limited influence, although alcohol consumption has actually fallen 20 per cent since 2002. What we need urgently is a change of attitude. Twice recently I heard radio presenters laughing about how we drink ourselves into oblivion on stag weekends and at staff Christmas parties. It was the usual boasts of “if you can remember it, you didn’t have a good time” and “how bad was your hangover”. I also heard a friend dismiss her teenage son’s binge drinking with a shrug and a “sure what can you do?” If we continue to think like this, no legislation or minimum pricing is going to make any difference.

DSCF7124Torres Natureo Delcoholised wine 2015

0.0% (0 Units)

€7.95

An alcohol-free Muscat that is the closest I have tasted to the real thing. A refreshing enjoyable drink.

Stockists: Very widely available.

 

 

 

Image 1Domaine de la Pépière, Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine, Organic

12% (less than a unit per 100ml serving)

€17.95

Light and refreshing apple fruits, with a wonderful zestiness.

Stockists: O Learys, Cootehill; Clontarf Wines; Hole in the Wall; O’Driscoll, Ballinlough, Quintessential Wines, Drogheda.

 

 

 

DSCF7152Vale de Capucha 2011, VR Lisboa, Portugal

15% (1.2 units per 100ml serve)

€21

Seemingly restrained with damson fruits, good acidity and a very attractive mineral core. Great wine with real character.

Stockists: Corkscrew; Gibney’s, Malahide; Redmond’s, Ranelagh; Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2; Blackrock Cellar.

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Breaking Booze – its wine o’clock but there is a shortage!

Posted by on January 23, 2017

Dire predictions of future wine shortages make for good copy. The media needs a constant stream of stories and tales of hailstorms, late frosts, flooding and other random acts of nature help fill pages, online and off. A year or so ago, it was northeast Italy. I certainly haven’t noticed a great Prosecco shortage in our wine bars, or any massive price increases. If anything the opposite seems the case. As well as providing news, such scaremongering may help producers push their prices up a little. Generally I ignore these tales of alarm. If there is a genuine shortage of one wine, we are lucky to have plenty of alternatives from other regions, although when the stories are genuine, naturally I do feel sorry for the unfortunate producers who may have lost an entire year’s income in a few short hours.

 However, it does now seem possible that we are facing into a worldwide shortage of wine. World consumption has been increasing steadily over the past decade or more, particularly in the US and China, two of the largest markets. At the same time, production has declined, mainly in Europe, where growers have been paid to grub up vines. To make matters worse, France and Italy, the two largest producers, have suffered a series of small harvests. Further afield, Argentina, Chile and South Africa are all looking at a reduced harvest in 2016. Australia and New Zealand both saw increases, and are reporting high quality too, but this is unlikely to make up for the shortfall elsewhere. As it takes several years for a vine to become productive, and a decade or more to yield high quality grapes, it could take time to address the shortage.

In 2016, well-known names such as Sancerre and Chablis suffered from late frosts in April and early May, and parts of Beaujolais from hail. We will probably see shortages of these over next year. The harvest in Burgundy overall is 20 per cent down on 2015 with some areas suffering far more. The finest region of Burgundy, the Côte d’Or, has experienced a series of smaller and smaller vintages, affected by frost, hailstorms and floods. Prices for the top wines have rocketed as demand has increased dramatically in the same period.

More worrying in the long-term is the increased demand worldwide for the finest wines. Consumers in China, Hong Kong and elsewhere are happy to pay large sums for the very best labels. In the most sought-after areas, the scope for increased production is very limited. It is likely that the great wines of the world will continue to increase in price, and we will have to look elsewhere for our wine.  I will return to this subject again in the near future.

ImageViré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes 2014, Florent Rouve

13%

€20

Sophisticated textured green fruits, underpinned by subtle hazelnuts, with real depth.

Stockists: Marks & Spencer

 

 

 

DSCF7121Johann Geil Pinot Noir 2015, Rheinhessen

13%

€17.95

Charming free-flowing light supple cherry fruits. By itself, with salmon, tuna or pork.

Stockists: Mortons, Sweeneys, Redmonds, Wicklow Wine: Mitchells, Listons, Jus de Vine, Drinkstore, Corkscrew, Blackrock Cellar, 64Wine; Grapevine.

 

 

 

 

Image 2Langhe Nebbiolo 2014 G.D. Vajra

13%

€27.99

The friendly face of Nebbiolo? Floral and elegant with very approachable red fruits.

Stockists: Baggot St. Wines; Clontarf Wines; Fallon & Byrne; Green Man; Jus de Vine; Searsons; The Corkscrew; World Wide Wines.

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The Best in Party Wines

Posted by on January 23, 2017

First Published in The Irish Times, December 24th, 2016

Its party time! If you are holding a New Year’s bash, now is the time to stock up on wine. Today, a last-minute look at less expensive party wines being offered by the multiples and independents in the final run-up to Christmas.

The sparkling wines below would be fine served as they are, but could also form the base of a seasonal cocktail – why not try a few drops of sloe gin? I have chosen lighter oak-free wines that are not too high in alcohol, perfect for sipping without food. Do remember to give your guests something to nibble on though; it will help soak up the alcohol. Make sure you have a few mocktails or other adult soft drinks for those who don’t drink alcohol.

Aldi have the ever reliable Crémant du Jura (€10.99), the excellent textured fruit-filled Lot 18 Baden Pinot Blanc (€13.99), and the pleasantly fruity Exquisite Fleurie (€9.99). Some branches of Lidl have stocks of two excellent Austrian wines, the Wachau Reserve Grüner Veltliner and Wachau Reserve Riesling (both €12.99). For a party red, I would take a look at the lightly fruity Cepa Lebrel Joven for a remarkable €6.99. If you need fizz, SuperValu has a very tasty Cremant de Loire (€15). For white, they have the Abello Albariño at a competitive €10, and for red either the Le Petite Perrière Pinot Noir (€11.99), the Rare Vineyards Malbec (€10) or the softly fruity Goichot Fleurie (€12). Tesco has an exceptional own-label Prosecco for €17.99, a decent South African Chenin Blanc for just €7, as well as the Viñas del Rey Albariño for €12.65,

Marks & Spencer have the delicious Mâcon Villages Blanc (€14.80) and Craft 3 Chenin Blanc (€15). For red wines, chose from the Sapin Beaujolais (€12), Old Vine Tempranillo (€11) and the warming Chateau Triniac Latour de France for €14. O’Briens offer the Viña Vedra Albariño (€12.95) and the great value fruit-filled Les Beauchamp Viognier Blanc for €10.

I have mentioned it before but the Pouilly-Fumé Domaine de Bel Air (€16.95) is a very tasty sophisticated Sauvignon Blanc. For a really good sparkling wine go for the L’Extra par Langlois (€17.95) and for red wine, the Leyda Pinot Noir Reserva (€11.95) and Begude Pinot Noir (€14.95) are both very keenly priced. The La Vieille Capitelle (€10) will suit those on a tight budget, as will the ever popular Porta 6 (€10).

Moving upmarket, Whelehan’s Wines have taken delivery of a delicious delicate dry Sancerre rosé (€19.95) that would be a wow at a posh drinks party.  They also stock the Godello Luna Beberide (€19.95) that would make a welcome change from yet more Sauvignon Blanc, and a very attractive red Sancerre (€19.95), made from Pinot Noir, to complete the range. Their Champagne from Bénard-Pitois, is utterly reliable.

Most independents will have stocks of the National Off-Licence Association (Noffla) award-winning Adega de Pegöes white (€14.99), and the Albizu Tempranillo (€12-€13) offers amazing value for money. Lastly if you want to push the boat out, the Noffla award-winning Champagne Louis Roederer (€60) will go down a treat. Happy Christmas!

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Specialist Retailers at risk

Posted by on January 22, 2017

The Public Health (Alcohol) Bill currently working its way through the Oireachtas could have profound effects on the way we drink. Minimum pricing makes some sense to me, although a ban on below-cost selling might be more effective. However, we already have some of the most expensive alcohol in Europe, so obviously price alone will not curb excessive drinking. Many of those creating mayhem in our urban centres every weekend will have paid very high prices for their late-night drinks and it certainly hasn’t prevented them bingeing.

The Bill does not propose to limit the number of outlets that can sell alcohol. I am uneasy that my local garage sells a range of wine, beer and spirits alongside petrol. If alcohol is so dangerous, surely its sale should be limited, or confined to specialists? If it works, I would certainly welcome the proposed restrictions on the constant barrage of dubious special offers on alcohol in our supermarkets.

The proposal to have a label on the back listing the alcoholic strength in grams as well as the calorie content, alongside other health warnings may sound good but actually could severely restrict the import of quality wine while leaving the cheaper stuff untouched.

Big producers typically ship a large consignment of a single wine so it should be relatively easy for them to affix a unique back label for the Irish market. For small artisan producers who make tiny quantities of multiple wines, and small quality importers who import these wines, it would be a nightmare. For instance, medium-sized importer Tindal & Co import 1,070 different wines from 125 producers. Imagine trying to deal with a small 100 case delivery of 10 different wines, opening each case, removing every bottle to attach a unique back label depending on the alcoholic strength and calories of the wine. Multiply this by a hundred and it simply isn’t possible. This could mean the disappearance of the most interesting wines from this country, and possibly a few importers too.

Under the legislation, retailers will be required to separate alcohol from all other products. Again, this seems a sensible idea, and should be relatively easy for large supermarkets with plenty of space. But many of the small specialist off-licences and wine shops also offer cheeses, charcuterie, and other foods alongside their wines. As things stand, they will have to cordon their wine off so that it cannot be seen from the food section. Our specialist retailers, already under severe pressure from the multiples, and hardly the cause of our alcohol problems, will be put under huge additional pressure.

I continue to believe that most of us consume alcohol in a way that does not seriously damage our health. I am in favour of anything that encourages us to drink sensibly, and to think differently about alcohol.  It remains to be seen whether this bill will do that, or simply demonise the intelligent drinker. jwilson@irishtimes.com

Image 2Vin Rouge, Vin de France

12%

€18.85

A lovely light juicy Gamay from natural winemaker Clos de Tue-Boeuf in the Loire valley.

Stockists: Bradley’s, Cork; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Green Man; Corkscrew.

 

 

 

 

DSCF7174Syrah d’Ogier 2014, Vin de France

12.5%

€21.95

Truly satisfying elegant savoury dark cherry fruits;

Stockists: Searsons, Monkstown; McCambridges, Galway; 64wine, Glasthule; Donnybrook Fair.

 

 

 

 

DSCF7049Dâo 201 Rui Reguinga, Portugal

13.5%

€24.50

Absolutely delicious wine. Elegant supple dark cherry fruits, concentrated and rounded with good acidity. Loved it.

Stockists: Terroirs, Donnybrook

 

 

 

 

 

 

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