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Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay 2022, New Zealand

Posted by on September 20, 2023
Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay 2022, New Zealand

€65 from Morgan’s Wines, 64wines, Glasthule, Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown and Clontarf Wines.

Fresh citrus blossom aromas, with a touch of oak; gorgeous mineral-driven lemon and lime zest with green apples and some rich fruit too. Linear with a distinctive saline finish. Not unlike a top Puligny-Montrachet with its racy acidity and structure. A brilliant wine, but one for the long haul. 18/20

Over the last few decades, the Brajkovich family has established Kumeu River as one of the world’s great producers of Chardonnay. The Brajkovich emigrated from Croatia in 1937. After a few years, they established what is now Kumeu Estate in West Auckland. Today the thirty-hectare estate is run by the third generation of the family. During the 1980s, Michael, Milan, and Paul began moving towards producing high-quality wines made from Chardonnay. Unable to expand further in Auckland due to high real estate prices, the family purchased some vineyards in Hawke’s Bay in 2017. 

Kumeu River produces a range of excellent Chardonnays, including four single vineyard wines, a delicious traditional method Crémant and a very good Pinot Noir. I have twice taken part in blind tastings where most experienced tasters present, including myself, believed the Kumeu River wines to be fine Burgundies!

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Two Great Wines From Rioja

Posted by on September 13, 2023
Two Great Wines From Rioja

Two Wines on Wednesday this week, both from the Rioja 100Km of Diversity tasting last week.

Phinca Hapa 2020, Rioja Blanco, Bodegas Bhilar

Deep in colour with peaches and tangy orange peel on the nose. Both flavours continue on to the palate, blending in perfectly with opulent apricots, lime zest, and a strong mineral element. A fascinating and original wine.

#39.95, currently on offer at €25 from Searsons, Monkstown, www.searsons.com until the 24th September.

Bodegas Bhilar was set up in 1999 by David Sampedro and his wife Melanie Hickman. He is from the Rioja Alavesa, she from Hawaii. Today the vineyards are biodynamic and they specialise in small batches of single vineyard wines. The minimal intervention sustainable winery is built partially underground with concrete fermentation tanks. It is “off grid” using solar power.

There has been a lot of excitement about a new generation of Viura-based white wines from Rioja. This wine certainly fits into this category. The single vineyard Phinca Hapa is a blend of 82% Viura, 12% Garnacha Blanca and 6% Malvasía, fermented on the skins and then aged in large oak foudres.

Cantos de Valpiedra 2019, Finca Valpiedra Rioja Crianza

This is a very attractive smooth mature wine with elegant dark fruits, a subtle spiciness and tobacco. Medium-bodied, tannin-free and supple, this modern style Rioja offers very good value for money.

€21 from JNwine.com, Theallotment.ie.; The Vineyard, Belfast; The Vintage Wine Merchant, Antrim.

I would try this with white meats with a bit of flavour; roast pork or herby grilled chicken.

Finca Valpiedra is a single vineyard estate set up in 1994 by the well-known Martínez Bujanda family of Rioja. It has been part of the Grandes Pagos organization since its inception. The vineyard is relatively big, some 80 hectares close to the Ebro River in Rioja Alta. There is an excellent Reserva white wine fermented and matured in French and American oak, an unoaked Petra de Valpiedra, and the flagship red Finca Valpiedra Reserva. The Cantos de Valpiedra is the Crianza and comes from select stonier parcel of vines on the estate. It is made from 100% Tempranillo and aged for twelve months in 70% French and 30% American oak.

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PRANZEGG CAMPILL 2019, VINO ROSSO

Posted by on September 6, 2023
PRANZEGG CAMPILL 2019, VINO ROSSO

Pranzegg Campill 2019, Vino Rosso

€40 From 64wine, Glasthule

Full of energy with piquant pure fresh dark cherries, plums and brambles. It has a mouth-watering twist of acidity that makes it a great food wine, and a light earthiness. Elegant, with a mere 12%abv.

We enjoyed a bottle of this delicious vibrant wine last weekend with salad and plainly roasted chicken. However, I suspect the vibrant acidity would give a perfect ‘cut’ to richer meat dishes.

There are times when I receive a sample of natural wine and breathe a deep sigh. While I am very much in favour of low intervention and have tasted many brilliant wines, I hate light fizzy acidic anemic red wines or even worse, wines there taste more of barnyards than fruit. So, I put off tasting this sample for a week or more, which was wrong of me. If you still need proof that low intervention wines can sing, then the Pranzegg Campill will provide ample proof.

Martin Gojer and his wife have a small vineyard in the hills above Bolzano in the South Tyrol. They farm on biodynamic lines, producing tiny quantities of white and red wines. Some of the vines are trained traditional pergola fashion.

This wine is made from the Vernatsch grape, otherwise known as Trollinger in Germany, where it is the fourth most planted variety, or Schiava in Italy. It originates in Trentino / South Tyrol.

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La Tremenda Bodegas Enrique Mendoza 2018

Posted by on August 30, 2023
La Tremenda Bodegas Enrique Mendoza 2018

La Tremenda Bodegas Enrique Mendoza 2018, Alicante

Elegant refreshing ripe dark fruits with a savoury note of black olives, and a light toasty spiciness. There is a lovely juicy fleshy quality to the fruit. It finishes with some well-judged dry tannins.

A good medium-bodied all-purpose wine that would go well with both red and white meats as well as Mediterranean vegetables. Keep it local and drink alongside one of those lovely paella-style rice dishes.

€19.95 from Lotts & Co, D4; Nectar Wines, Sandyford; Barnhill Stores, Dalkey: Martins Off Licence, D3; Redmonds of Ranelagh, D6; The Corkscrew, D2; McHugh’s Off Licence, D5.

Enrique Mendoza is based in Alicante in south-east Spain. He was one of the first producers in the modern era to concentrate on making quality wines. Starting out with international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, more recently he has turned his attention to Monastrell aka Mourvèdre a variety that is indigenous to the region. As I mentioned in a previous blog on Bodega El Cèrron in Jumilla, some producers in Murcia and Alicante are looking to make lighter, more elegant wines from Monastrell. Mendoza certainly falls into this category. As well as several excellent single vineyard wines, he makes La Tremenda, his entry-level wine. Made in stainless steel and then aged briefly in oak barrels, it offers great value for money.

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Château Poitevin 2016, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc

Posted by on August 23, 2023
Château Poitevin 2016, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc

Château Poitevin 2016, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc
13%
€18.95 down from €21.95 until the 27th August from O’Briens.

This is a classic medium-bodied mature Médoc with a nice concentration of just ripe blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, good structure, a touch of spice and evolved smooth tannins on the dry finish. At less than €20, this is pretty good value for money.

Perfect with red meats – the classic roast leg of lamb would be great – or firm cheeses.

After many years of wrangling, the Cru Bourgeois system was relaunched in 2020. There are now 250 Châteaux spread out across the Médoc entitled to call themselves Cru Bourgeois. 45 of those are Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, and a further 14 are Cru Bourgeois Exceptionel. A well-made Cru Bourgeois from the Médoc can offer great value for money; there are also disappointments, something to be expected when you have such a large group, but the new system seems to provide far great consistency. According to the official Bordeaux website, the Crus Bourgeois make up over 40% of the entire Médoc production.

Cru Bourgeois straddles the gap between the much more expensive Grands Crus Classés and mere petits châteaux. For me, they should have classic Médoc structure and fruit; ripe but savoury dark fruits, granular tannins and good acidity. Those from the better-known communes such as Margaux or Saint-Julien should show some typicity too.

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Bodega El Cerrón Remordimiento 2020, Jumilla

Posted by on August 15, 2023
Bodega El Cerrón Remordimiento 2020, Jumilla

Bodega El Cerrón Remordimiento 2020, Jumilla
14%
€19.95

This is a delicious medium-bodied wine with supple pure dark fruits, an attractive freshness, and a herby touch with light tannins. It offers great value for money.

Food: A good all-rounder, light enough to go with most white meats, it would also make a great partner for grilled or roast lamb.

From 64 Wine, Glasthule; Redmond’s, D6; Blackrock Cellar; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Fine Wine & Food Athlone.

Monastrell grown in the Murcia region of southwest Spain can produce very big, tannic, alcoholic wines. There are exceptions though. Earlier this year, I was delighted to come across the wines of Bodega Cerrón. All four wines I tasted were fresh, elegant and vibrant with a wonderful purity of fruit. I feature the Remordimiento as it has the widest availability, but the Matas Altas (€25 from Drinkstore, D7) is well worth seeking out.

Juan José and Carlos Cerrón are the fourth generation to farm a series of small plots of vines located at 870-980 metres around the village of Fuente-Álamo in the Jumilla D.O. The ungrafted bush vines are farmed biodynamically in limestone soils.

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Fèlsina Berardenga 2019 Chianti Classico

Posted by on February 16, 2023
Fèlsina Berardenga 2019 Chianti Classico

Textbook Chianti Classico with violet and red fruit aromas; medium-bodied with dark cherry fruits. Good but not intrusive acidity and perfectly judged tannins on the finish. Try this with most plainly grilled red meats or mushroom-based dishes.

Tasted and Coravined before Christmas this was a treat on a chilly February evening. Fèlsina is based on the south-eastern border of Chianti Classico. It has been run by the Poggiali family since 1966. While the Riserva, Fontalloro, Rancio and single vineyard Colonia are all very good (as is their olive oil) I have always been very fond of the Chianti Classico.

€31.95 from StationtoStationWine.ie; Wineonline.ie; Eldons, Clonmel; The Allotment.ie.

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Belondrade y Lurton 2018, Rueda. Organic

Posted by on February 10, 2023
Belondrade y Lurton 2018, Rueda. Organic

Rich and textured with harmonious, lush, creamy soft ripe stone fruits – peaches and apricots – with subtle toasted nuts and just enough acidity. Outstanding wine. 17.5/20

The 2020 vintage is available for €53 although you may still be able to find the 2018 and 2019 vintages in some shops. From Deveney’s – Dundrum; Martins; McHugh’s; Redmonds of Ranelagh; The Corkscrew, D2; Nectar Wines; Mitchell and Son; Wineonline.ie. 

I received a sample of this a few years back and wondered how it might age, so I Coravined it and tried it again recently. It is the top wine from Belondrade y Lurton, a project started by Didier Belondrade in 1994. The wines are made in a very smart minimalist winery overlooking the vines. Belondrade has 23 plots of vines, all in La Seca, one of the top wine-growing regions of Rueda. Spontaneous fermentation, fermented and aged in French oak of various age and size.

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Anthill Farms Syrah 2013, Campbell Ranch Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, U.S.A.

Posted by on February 7, 2023
Anthill Farms Syrah 2013, Campbell Ranch Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, U.S.A.

Quite delicious with easy smooth dark fruits, a lick of dusty leather, spice and black pepper. This has a lovely soft subtle ripeness and the tannins are light at this stage.

A present from my sister who lives in California, and knows I am a fan of Anthill. The winery is better known for their Pinot, but the Syrah, from a cool-climate vineyard a few kilometres from the Pacific Ocean, is equally good.

Anthill Farms are imported by Winemason and I see Mitchell & Son has the 2016 vintage for €48.95.

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Maranges Vieilles Vignes 2019, Domaine Maurice Charleux.

Posted by on November 2, 2022
Maranges Vieilles Vignes 2019, Domaine Maurice Charleux.

This week a red Burgundy that offers great value for money. It is from Maranges, at the southern end of the Côte d’Or.

Concentrated and ripe with fresh red cherry fruits dusted with spice and a lovely long finish. It will evolve further over the next year or two, but is very seductive already; I bought a few bottles for the coming festive season.

€29.95 from Mitchell & Son, chq, D1 and Sandycove; La Touche Wines, Greystones; Morton’s, Ranelagh; TheNudeWineCo.ie.

Maranges, like Marsannay at the other end of the Côte d’Or, is one of the lesser-known, and therefore more reasonably priced names in Burgundy. Located just south of Santenay, it was part of Côtes de Beaune Villages appellation until 1989. There are seven Premiers Crus vineyards, and 90% of production is of red wine.

Founded in 1894, Domaine Maurice Charleux is situated in Dezize-lès-Maranges, part of Maranges. Today the domaine covers just under 12 hectares, of which 85% is Pinot Noir. They produce three premiers crus. The Vieilles Vignes is made from a few hectares of vines planted in 1933 and 1937.

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