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Domaine Begude Etoile 2013, Limoux

Domaine Begude Etoile 2013, Limoux

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€19.99

Available from O’Briens

Also from O’Briens, the latest vintage of Etoile from James Kinglake of Domaine Begude. I am a big fan of his Le Bel Ange (great value at €12.99), but this Chardonnay is his finest wine yet. Impeccably balanced peach and orange fruits, with a touch of toasty oak, plush but refreshing with excellent length. A seriously good wine at a bargain price. I tried it alongside a very posh Puligny-Montrachet, both from the same vintage. At this stage the Etoile comfortably outclassed it at a third of the price.

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Côtes du Rhône 2013, Domaine Saint Gayan

Côtes du Rhône 2013, Domaine Saint Gayan

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€16.95

Available from Searsons Wine Merchants, Monkstown.

This is a young wine with real concentration and length; never too big or alcoholic, but full-bodied with masses of dark fruits and liquorice. Worth every penny.

Drink with substantial stews and casseroles or roast venison

Côtes du Rhône comes in all shapes and sizes; this vast area produces huge quantities of inexpensive glugging wine at very cheap prices. The more ambitious producers aim to make far better wines with real character, and charge a little more. Some offer great value. Domaine St. Gayan, with vineyards in the posher areas of Rasteau, Sablet and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is one such producer.

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100 Hügel 2014 Riesling Trocken Wittmann, Rheinhessen

100 Hügel 2014 Riesling Trocken Wittmann, Rheinhessen

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€18

Available from On the Grapevine,Dalkey; Cabot & Co, Westport; One Pery Square, Limerick.

Fresh crisp Riesling with light exotic fruits – pineapple and peaches, with a good dry finish.

Sip before dinner or with crab salad.

I am reliably informed that this is what Dalkey is drinking this summer, and possibly Westport and Limerick too. I can only admire their good taste. Phillip Wittmann produces some of the finest wines in Germany from his small estate in the Rheinhessen. The top wines cost over €30 a bottle, so I usually go for his Trocken at around €22. This is new, an entry-level dry Riesling. A hügel is a hill, and nothing to do with those people in Alsace.

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Viognier 2013, Terre d’Eglantière Vignerons Ardechois, IGP Ardèche

Viognier 2013, Terre d’Eglantière Vignerons Ardechois, IGP Ardèche

DSCF5854Viognier 2013, Terre d’Eglantière Vignerons Ardechois, IGP Ardèche
14%
€16.95

Available from Red Island Wine, Skerries; Hole in the Wall, D7; Deveneys, Rathmines; The Wicklow Wine Co.

Sumptuous rich textured peach and apricot fruits overlaid with grilled nuts and toast and a hint of honey. A nicely balanced full-bodied wine that coats the mouth with flavour.

Try with rich fish and seafood dishes, or roast pork with apples or plums.

Les Vignerons Ardéchois is a large company, made up of fourteen co-operatives and over 1,500 growers. It produces almost 60 million bottles of wine a year. Despite its size, it succeeds in making a series of sound reliable wines at keen prices, and one or two real gems such as the Viognier above.

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Claus Preisinger Blaufränkisch 2013, Burgenland, Austria

Claus Preisinger Blaufränkisch 2013, Burgenland, Austria

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€22

Available from: 64wine, Glasthule; Clontarf Wines.

Essence of Blaufränkisch – lovely vivid blueberry and damson fruits with no tannins and a very appetising freshness.

This would go nicely with most chicken or pork dishes.

Claus Preisinger is an interesting guy and an inquisitive winemaker, trying out all sorts of natural and amphorae wines. Some are remarkably good. He also makes an excellent range of ‘normal’ wines. I have usually been more impressed with his white wines, but earlier this year I tried several tasty reds, including one of the finest Zweigelts I have tasted. Today though, his Blaufränkisch.

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Hugel Cuvée des Amours 2011, Pinot Blanc de Blancs

Hugel Cuvée des Amours 2011, Pinot Blanc de Blancs

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€15.99

Light apple and quince fruits with a clean refreshing acidity. Perfect sipping wine or with salads and lighter fish dishes.

Pinot Blanc generally gets a pretty bad press, rated lower than Pinot Gris/Grigio, which isn’t saying much. ‘Useful rather than exciting’, according to Jancis Robinson. I think this is a little unfair; I have to say I enjoy the soft easy fruitiness you get from Pinot Blanc and its cousin Auxerrois. I usually prefer them to Pinot Gris/Grigio and they make great party wines, guaranteed not to offend and very likely to please.

Available from The Vintry, Rathmines, Redmond’s, Ranelagh and wineonline.ie

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Waltner Zweigelt 2013, Halterberg, Austria

Waltner Zweigelt 2013, Halterberg, Austria

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€16

Enticing floral aromas with refreshing juicy dark fruits and a tannin-free finish. Great with lighter meats – pork, chicken or charcuterie.

Having arrived back from holiday, with delayed flights and lots of waiting around, I grabbed a bottle of this to drink with a hastily-prepared dinner of chops and salad. It was delicious. Zweigelt can be the Beaujolais of Austria, light refreshing and very gluggable. There are some winemakers who try a little too hard, ageing it in new oak barrels and extracting heavy tannins. To me that misses the whole point; Zweigelt is there to be drunk and enjoyed for its pure free-flowing fruits.

Available from Red Island Wines, Skerries; Listons, Camden St.; On the Grapevine, Dalkey, Cabot & Co. Westport.

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Sancerre Florès 2013 Vincent Pinard

Sancerre Florès 2013 Vincent Pinard

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€29.50

A stunning Sancerre with lifted floral aromas, and a superb razor-sharp, clean refined mineral palate, finishing bone dry. Sauvignon at it’s best.

Vincent Pinard has 12-15 hectares of vines in Bué, where he crafts a series of excellent white wines using different techniques, as well as three red wines from Pinot Noir. All come under the Sancerre name. I have only once tasted the Pinot, but his white wines are amongst the very best in Sancerre.

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Gigondas 2011 Domaine de la Bouïssière

Gigondas 2011 Domaine de la Bouïssière

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€31.45

A big warm ultra-ripe enveloping mouthful of refined smooth strawberries and dark fruits, with a lingering easy finish.

I had a bottle of this in my cellar and opened it to drink alongside the beef tortillas my daughter requested for her 16th birthday dinner. It was a brilliant match and a great wine too; I still haven’t figured out how Thierry Faravel manages to make a 15% wine seem elegant, but this combines soft rich fruit with a real refinement. The importer has now moved on to the 2012 vintage. which I have not tasted, but the stores below may have a bottle or two of the 2011.

Stockists: Drink Store, D7; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Donnybrook Fair; thewinestore.ie

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Gaia S 2010, Koutsi Hillside Vineyard, P.G.I Peleponnese, Greece

Gaia S 2010, Koutsi Hillside Vineyard, P.G.I Peleponnese, Greece

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€23.49

Available from O’Briens

Made from a blend of the indigenous Agiorgtiko and Syrah, this is a lovely mature wine; sweet ripe red fruits with a tantalising savoury kick from the Syrah; a little new oak still lingering; full-bodied and rounded with good length.

I am a big fan of the Gaia wines and of Greek wines in general. Any country with wines called Lesbos and Drama deserves our attention. With a history of winemaking going back 4,500 years and three hundred indigenous grape varieties, the country should be sweeping all before it. Somehow it hasn’t quite happened yet, but if it does, I am sure that guys like the amiable professorial Yannis Paraskevopoulos of Gaia will have played a large part in that success. The other winery on Santorini produces a superb white Assyrtiko.

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