A Tale of Two Burgundies

A tale of two Burgundies

Inspired by a trip toGermanytasting Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), I cracked open two bottles of redBurgundyfor dinner. The first was a recent purchase from the 2010 vintage, the second an elderly bottle from the cellar.

 Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru Aux Beaux Bruns 1993, Domaine Barthod

13%

I bought six bottles of this back in the mid-90s. Having had a brilliant bottle last year, I had high hopes, which seemed dashed when I first tasted this one; quite light and acidic, seemingly past its prime. However after ten minutes it opened out into a beautiful elegant wine with delicate silky-soft red fruits and a pleasing freshness. Great wine. As far as I know, Barthod is imported by le Caveau (www.lecaveau.ie) and Nomad Wines.

Bourgogne Rouge 2010 Domaine Guillot-Broux

12.5%

I really enjoyed my visit to this estate, high up in the hills of Mâcon. Emmanuel Gillot-Broux is a talented and thoughtful man making some lovely sappy light reds, and rich mineral ageworthy whites. As featured in the Times, this is a lovely fresh wine with redcurrants and summer fruits. I can see it improving further over the next year. From Cabot & Co,Westportand On the Grapevine, Dalkey for around €20.

Runners & Riesling

Some of you may have seen a young Swedish man on RTE news last week, proposing to his Irish girlfriend having completed the ultramarathon course in the Connemarathon. The gentleman concerned was Hakan Eriksson, who has worked in the wine business here for a number of years, and is currently with Honest2Goodness wines. As it happened Hakan had dropped me in a sample of a new German Riesling, about which he was very excited. This is the wine:

 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Trocken 2009, Mosel

12%

€19.99

 Classic dry Riesling; a lightly floral nose, pristine crisp green apple fruits and citrus acidity. Fresh as a spring morning and a delight to drink.

 Stockists: see www.honest2goodness.ie  

HENSCHKE BARGAIN

Henschke Julius Riesling 2006, Eden Valley, Australia

One of the greatest Australian Rieslings I have tasted was a Henschke Julius Riesling 1997. It had wonderful mature fruit with a lovely streak of mineral acidity. This wine is not quite in the same class yet, but may get there given a few years ageing. At the moment it has light floral aromas, with crisp mineral citrus and green fruits on the palate, finishing dry. At the reduced price, it is a real bargain. I will certainly be heading off to Donnybrook Fair to buy a few bottles, and would recommend you do the same.

€16.99 down from €29.99 at Donnybrook Fair for their ‘spring clean’ sale.

CUVEÉ FRÉDÉRIC EMILE

Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2004, Alsace

12.5%

€36.99

Trimbach is one of the very best producers of Alsace; their greatest wine, Clos Sainte Hune is virtually impossible to get hold of these days. However, savvy wine-drinkers know that the Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling is also a brilliant wine and at a third of the price, a bit of a bargain. Certainly it ages more reliably than most serious white Burgundy, and again is cheaper. I had the opportunity to taste a half-dozen vintages with Jean Trimach last year, and bought a case of the excellent 2002. The current vintage, the 2004, will probably be every bit as good. It has a perfect balance of sophisticated green fruits, mineral acidity, and a wonderful lingering finish. On my last visit, Greenacres in Wexford had ½ bottles on sale, perfect for two with a starter. 18.5/20

Stockists: Mitchell & Son, IFSC and Glasthule; Gaynors, Dublin 8; Kellys, Clontarf; Sweeneys, Glasnevin; Greenacres, Wexford; Cheers, Stillorgan; Superquinn ; Ardkeen, Waterford.