Blog

Wines to keep you warm this autumn

fullsizeoutput_1158

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday October 7th, 2017

I cling to the dying days of summer for as long as possible, hoping against hope that the days won’t get shorter and the temperature won’t drop. Sadly, inevitably, the weather has changed, the leaves are turning and autumn has arrived.

As the season changes we move on from the lighter wines of summer to something a little more warming, not necessarily to anything quite as big and powerful as the robust winter reds, but we certainly drink more red wine, or white wines with a little bit more body and texture. We still drink fresh, crisp whites and light reds from time to time, of course, but many of us instinctively drink seasonally. Sales of rosé plummet, and of red wines increase, once the sun disappears.

Choosing a wine is as much about mood as about the food you are serving. I often find myself returning to old favourites, such as the Protocolo below. Like a favourite old coat or jacket, or a cosy blanket returned to the sofa, they offer a certain comfort at this time of year.

My favourite autumnal wines include mellow Riojas, some of which can have a definite aroma of autumnal undergrowth, as does mature Pinot Noir. Both are perfect for all of those game dishes that become available for the next few months, or pork with roasted vegetables – onions, butternut squash and root vegetables. If you add a couple of apples the white Château Saint Auriol below would work well. If you add a little spice a fuller-bodied Grenache or Shiraz would be perfect.

For white wines with a little more richness and body, go for Chardonnay, Viognier, Roussanne or maybe a Godello, from Spain. All of these work really well with white meats and fuller-bodied fish dishes. I had a great fish pie this week that was perfect with a medium-bodied Chardonnay. Chenin Blanc from South Africa also has that comforting cushioned richness that seems just right on a colder evening. I have also enjoyed several warming curries in the past few weeks. My lamb bhuna worked a treat with the Grenache Noir below on a damp Thursday evening; the Château Saint Auriol went nicely with a creamy chicken curry.

Around this time of year all of those back-to-school expenses start to bite. If you are self-employed the taxman is waiting impatiently for his annual payment. So, this week, four budget wines, all widely available and all well under €15, to keep us warm in the cooler evenings.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Protocolo 2014, Castilla, Spain 13.5%, €10.95

An old favourite that is on song. Light, smooth cherry fruits with a hint of vanilla spice. Perfect all-purpose wine. From branches of O’Briens

Tesco Shiraz 2016, Limestone Coast, Australia 14.5%, €9

Instantly gluggable full-bodied red with generous blackcurrant fruits and a nice seam of acidity to balance it out. Serve with red meats. From branches of Tesco

Château Saint Auriol Chatelaine Blanc 2015, Corbières, France 13%, €12.99
Perfumed, medium-bodied, textured white wine with peaches and toasted nuts. Serve with creamy chicken or pork. From branches of SuperValu

Grenache Noir 2016, JC Mas, Sud de France 13.5% €8.49
Soft, seductive ripe strawberry and raspberry fruits. Another good all-purpose wine. Serve with red or white meats. From branches of Aldi

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

Give Merlot and Chardonnay a second chance

Sideways (2004): “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving”

First puyblished in The Irish Times, Saturday September 23rd, 2017

Fashion is a fickle business. In the not-too-distant past, a wine producer wondering what grape varieties to plant in a new vineyard would have gone straight for Chardonnay and Merlot.

These were, after all, the most sought-after wines around the world. Given that a vine takes three years to produce grapes and a decade to make decent wine, predicting future trends can be a dangerous business.

Nowadays, I suspect Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Malbec would be at the top of the list for any prospective producer.

But a decade or so ago, Merlot was everybody’s darling. It is widely planted in North and South America, and elsewhere, too, is relatively easy to grow and produces decent yields.

The wines are very attractive, too, medium-bodied with velvety soft, rounded plummy fruits and none of those drying tannins associated with Cabernet Sauvignon. Even better, Merlot doesn’t require lengthy ageing. All of the wines, even the very best, are drinkable from the start.

How the mighty have fallen. Merlot became a dirty word largely thanks to the 2004 movie Sideways, where Myles, the main protagonist says ‘If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am not drinking any f***ing Merlot.’

Suddenly, everyone wanted Myles’s favourite, Pinot Noir, instead. Sales plummeted, particularly in the US. Yet we continued to drink Merlot, sometimes unwittingly, as most of the red wines of Bordeaux and the surrounding area will contain some Merlot in the blend. In areas such as Pomerol, it makes up 100 per cent of the wine, including the most famous pure Merlot of all, Petrus.

As for Chardonnay, it may have reached tipping point when Bridget Jones began drinking large glasses to console herself after her latest disaster. Much of the Chardonnay produced back then was heavily and clumsily oaked, and often high in alcohol, too, when the world began looking for something lighter and fresher. Enter Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc.

This is unfair on Chardonnay, one of the greatest grapes of all, and these days made in a much more appealing style. In my experience, most consumers love Chardonnay – until they see the label. As with Merlot, the French have us drinking it unknowingly. Just about every bottle of white Burgundy, from Chablis to Meursault to Mâcon is 100 per cent Chardonnay.

These days most less expensive Chardonnays are unoaked and a degree or two lighter in alcohol. They make great food wines, but are also perfect on their own. A good Merlot is supple and fruity; a real crowd-pleaser, in other words.

So this weekend, spare a thought for two of fashion’s forgotten victims, and try out a bottle of Chardonnay or Merlot. You should be in for a pleasant surprise.

Aresti Bellavista Chardonnay Reserva 2016
13%, €12.99 (€10 on promotion)

A very well-made, medium-bodied wine bursting with peach fruits and fresh, zesty acidity. Perfect on its own or with salmon.
Stockists: SuperValu

Lettre d’Aloise Chardonnay 2014
Coteaux Bourguignons, 13%, €17.95

A delectable, elegant white Burgundy with floral aromas and free-flowing fresh green fruits.
Stockists: Le Caveau, Kilkenny: Fallon & Byrne; World Wide Wines; 64 Wines; Green Man Wines; Mitchell & Son; Bradley’s, Cork

Santa Rita Merlot 120 Reserva Especial
Central valley, Chile, 13.5%, €11.99

Mellow, rounded ripe plum fruits with a dusting of spice. With or without food.
Stockists: widely available including SuperValu, Centra, Tesco, Dunnes Stores.

Atalon Merlot 2011
Pauline’s Cuvée, Napa Valley, 14.5%, €27.45

Ripe, voluptuous dark fruits with roasted coffee and black olives. A big warm hug of a wine.
Stockists: O’Briens

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

Bordeaux-quality wine without the price tag

Image 8

First published in The Irish Times September 16th, 2017

We move from Bordeaux priced at €35-€120 last week to four wines each costing less than €16. The two seem worlds apart, yet the distance from Château Petrus (average price €2,400 a bottle) in Bordeaux, to the Château le Payral is less than 50km. Bergerac will be familiar to many from summer holidays but how many of us know the wines? This small region, seemingly permanently in the shadow of its better-known neighbour, Bordeaux, is responsible for some of the best value wines in France.

The two regions share the same grape varieties and the climate is broadly similar; Bergerac is a little more continental, warmer in summer and colder in winter. Grapes ripen a week to 10 days later than in Bordeaux. As is often the case, the French wine authorities don’t make life easy for wine lovers, with 13 appellations for the region. Today we will stick to Bergerac and Bergerac Sec for the white wines.

 The red wines are made from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. For the dry whites (as well as sweet wines, in which the area excels) there is Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle. The use of a little Sémillon and/or Muscadelle can add an extra dimension to Sauvignon Blanc; lovers of Sauvignon from the Loire, Chile and New Zealand should certainly give these wines a try.

 Many of the cheaper red wines are similar in style to their counterparts in Bordeaux, and not in a good way. Light, scrawny and a little green, these are not wines to set a wine-lover’s pulse racing, and could explain why few Irish wine companies import from Bergerac. Possibly the large number of less discerning tourists visiting the region allows average producers to survive. However, there is a small group of more ambitious producers who offer some outstanding wines at prices that are very reasonable.

Two properties stand out as being special: Clos des Verdots, once imported by Superquinn but sadly no longer available, and Château Tour des Gendres, whose wines have featured on these pages many times. Both entry-level wines, red and white – €15.15 from Le Caveau and independents – are outstanding. There are plenty of other small producers trying hard to make good wine.

 Recently, two importers sent me samples from their Bergerac producers. All four wines were excellent and three come in at just over €15 a bottle. Not everyday wines, but they won’t break the bank either. The reds are easy, fruity and fluid, perfect with lighter meat dishes. The whites are textured and refreshing at the same time, great as an aperitif or with seafood salads and chicken.

BARGAIN BOTTLE

Ch. Le Payral 2016, Bergerac Sec (Organic), 12%, €15.50

Ch. Le Payral 2016, Bergerac Sec (Organic)

Floral and perfumed, filled with beautiful fresh, waxy green fruit with a crisp finish. Even better an hour later. A Sauvignon, Sémillon, Muscadelle blend. Stockists: Clontarf Wines; Green Man Wines; 64 Wines

Ch. Le Payral 2016, Bergerac (Organic), 13.5%, €15.50

Just-ripe dark crunchy blackcurrants, a nice seam of acidity, light tannins, decent length. I love it; great price, too.
Stockists: Clontarf Wines; Green Man Wines; 64 Wines

Ch. des Eyssards 2014 Cuvée Prestige,Bergerac, 14%, €15.50

Ch. des Eyssards 2014 Cuvée Prestige, Bergerac

Medium to full-bodied with warm ripe dark fruits edged with a sprinkle of spice.
Stockists: Wines Direct, Mullingar and Arnotts, Dublin

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

Two of the best from Bordeaux

IMG_3626

First published in The Irish Times, September 9th, 2017

Two Bordelaises visited Dublin recently, and each provided welcome proof that it is still possible to find very good traditional Bordeaux. Many in the region have become obsessed with making ever bigger and more powerful wines. But for me true Bordeaux is graceful and elegant, refreshing and balanced – the polar opposite of full bodied. Good claret should invite you to take another sip, and slowly seduce as it reveals hidden depths. Bordeaux is not a wine to drink on its own. It needs food to show off its finest attributes. Traditionally, it is accompanied by a roast of lamb or beef, although roast chicken, duck or a steak are fine too. If you want to keep things simple a hunk of decent Parmesan also works well.

Château Phélan Ségur

Château Phélan Ségur has been popular in Ireland for many years. The Irish connection – the Phelan family – died out in 1917. The property has always outperformed its status as a Cru Bourgeois, producing classic Saint-Estèphe: meaty, four-square wines that repay ageing.

I tasted a series of vintages going back to 1990 with the chateau’s managing director, Véronique Dausse, in Dublin. All were in fine fettle. The 2008 and 2006 were fully mature, with tobacco leaf, cool, elegant blackcurrant fruits and firm, drying tannins. The 2009 was riper, the 2010 firm and unyielding. I would give it a few more years. All were classic Bordeaux. Château Phélan Ségur costs anything from €70 to €100 a bottle; the estate’s second wine, Frank Phélan, available in independents, can offer good value at €35-€40.

Château le Puy

Emeline Arbeau works for Château le Puy, a unique property located just beside the vineyards of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. The 100-hectare estate has 46 under vine; the rest is forest and lake. It has been in the hands of the Amoreau family since 1656, and has always been organic, if not biodynamic, although they are only now in the process of being certified. Uniquely, the chateau releases the wine only when it considers it ready to drink. It has a remarkable collection of older vintages stretching back to 1917. A selection of these is released each year.

The wines are wonderful: stimulating, refreshing and elegant, the epitome of traditional Bordeaux, with toothsome brambly red fruits and blackcurrants, developing mushrooms with age – “Bordeaux as it used to taste,” says Emeline, and I can only agree.

The wines of Château le Puy are not cheap: the Emilien is €40 and Barthélemy, the top cuvee, about €120. If this seems expensive, remember that wine from neighbouring properties are about the same price but don’t always deliver the same quality.

Bottles of the Week

Château le Puy Emilien 2014, Côtes de Bordeaux 13%, €40
Restrained blackcurrants and blackberries with a fine acidity and an elegant, lightly tannic finish. From Green Man Wines, Dublin 6; Redmonds of Ranelagh, Dublin 6; the Corkscrew, Dublin 2; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4; Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3; Blackrock Cellar, Co Dublin

Frank Phélan 2012, Saint-Estèphe 13%, €34.95
Light, earthy tobacco and black fruits with a soft finish. Ready now. From branches of O’Briens, in Dublin, Carlow, Cork, Galway, Kildare, Limerick, Louth, Meath, Waterford, Westmeath and Wicklow; and other independents

Château Phélan Ségur 2009, Cru Bourgeois, Saint-Estèphe 13.5%, €95
Relatively full-bodied, with ripe blackcurrants and spice, and a long, dry finish. From O’Briens (as above) and other independents

This week’s bargain

Château Cilorn 2015, Bordeaux Supérieur 13.5%, €14.95, down from €19.95
Elegant cherry fruits underpinned by a fine acidity and light tannins on the finish. From O’Briens (as above)

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

Zinfandel: no-nonsense, full-flavoured wines

IMG_3266

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 2nd September, 2017

‘Here lies the last wimpy wine, RIP.’ is emblazoned on the stone as you enter Ravenswood winery in Sonoma, California. The motto “No Wimpy Wines” has become part of the folklore surrounding founder Joel Peterson and his winery.

Ravenswood made its name producing big, no-nonsense, full-flavoured wines. At a time when Zinfandel was shunned by many producers in favour of trendy Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Peterson and a few others began sourcing fruit from some of the oldest dry-farmed, pre-Prohibition vineyards in California. The results were spectacular.

 I met Peterson at a tasting in the winery, along with David Gates of Ridge Winery and other leading lights of Californian Zinfandel, where we tasted a range going back to the early 1990s from Ravenswood, Ridge and others. There were some brilliant mature wines.

Range of strengths

Zinfandel is something of a chameleon, producing anything from watery sweet rosé wines to full-bodied powerful reds. It all depends where it is grown, and how you treat it. I tasted wines going from 13.5 per cent all the way up to a whopping 17 per cent alcohol. No wimpy wines indeed!

Treated with distain for many years, it was used primarily to produce massive quantities of grapes destined for cheap “White Zinfandel”. Producer Ted Seghesio began by supplying Gallo with no fewer than three harvests of Zinfandel annually (from the same vines) before switching to much lower yields – and much better wine. Peterson and Gates had just returned from a Zinfandel Conference in its original home of Croatia. It is one of the oldest varieties in the world, and probably came to California via Italy. In Europe it goes under the names Tribidrag, Pribidrag, Crljenak kaštelanski, Kratošija and Primitivo.

 Lodi, to the east of San Francisco, has some of the oldest Zinfandel vines, and has been making a reputation for big powerful smooth wines often with a touch of smoked bacon. Sonoma Zins tend to be lighter and fresher, while those from Amador County are among the most powerful of all.

Zinfandel is generally matched with red meats, and it does go really well with steak and barbecued meats of all description, particularly those with a bit of spice. However, I have enjoyed it with pasta and tomato bakes, including lasagna, and braised meats. After our tasting, we enjoyed spicy Zinfandel with a range of outstanding Mexican foods, a brilliant match.

 If you fancy trying out some Zinfandels, and many other Californian wines, then the California Wine Institute will be holding a massive wine fair (with over 500 wines as well as a host of Irish importers and Californian Vintners) in the Shelbourne Hotel from 6.30pm-8.00pm on September 28th. Tickets are €10, available from Thetaste.ie

BARGAIN  WINE

Intrigo Primitivo 2015, Puglia, Italy, 13%, €11.99

Italian Zinfandel – a warm, easy-drinking version with supple sweet damson fruits. Stockists: SuperValu

Cline Zinfandel 2013, Lodi, California, €18.50

Ripe smooth rounded cherry fruits with a twist of vanilla spice. Blackrock Cellars, Whelehans Wines, Corskscrew and jnwine.com

Ravenswood Old Vine Zinfandel 2011, Lodi, California, 14.5%, €20

Medium to full-bodied with soft lush dark fruits. Perfect with barbequed steak. Stockists: McHughs, Whelehan wines, Donnybrook Fair, La Touche

Ridge Zinfandel 2014, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California, 14.5%, €34

Delicious powerful savoury sweet dark fruits, some spice, and well-integrated tannins. Nice wine. Stockists: Blackrock Cellars, Donnybrook Fair, Thomas Woodberry’s Galway, Baggot Street Wines, Whelehans Wines and jnwine.com

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

Gérard Bertrand: the man who helped save the Languedoc

Gérard Bertrand

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 26th August, 2017

Tall and charismatic, Gérard Bertrand commands the respect and loyalty of those who work for him. “People either work here for three months or 10 years,” he says. “If they fit in, they stay for a long time.” Bertrand is one of those responsible for reviving the fortunes of the Languedoc, a massive wine region that runs along much of the Mediterranean coast of France.

In the 1980s few people were interested. For many years it had been a mass producer of cheap jug wine. Bertrand started by selling well-made inexpensive wines to the supermarkets. He also began buying up moribund estates that had old vines, good soils and the potential to make great wine. Today he owns 22 estates and 410 hectares of vines.

He says he worked his first vintage at the age of 10 with his father at Château Villamajou in Corbières, going on to join the business full-time in his early 20s. At the time he was playing senior rugby with Narbonne, his local team – he was captain – and he is now a shareholder. In 2002, he became interested in biodynamic farming and began to experiment with two hectares of vines in his home estate of Cigalus. The wines were fresher, with much better acidity. Convinced by this, he is now in the process of converting all of his estates so that 50 per cent will be organic by 2020, while 30 per cent are already biodynamic.

Biodynamics

“It is a long journey that takes time. At first most of my staff said the boss has gone crazy, but now they will leave if we go back to conventional [winemaking].” Everyone I met had an almost evangelical belief in the project and in biodynamics. “I tell you, it works,” argues Bertrand. “The results are in the vineyard. It is hard for people who don’t believe to understand. My soil was like a fridge; full of everything but cold or frozen. The vines couldn’t eat it! As vignerons, we need to deliver the taste of the grapes and the taste of the terroir. Biodynamics magnifies all of this.” Today, most of his bulk wines are also sourced from co-operatives that practice organic viticulture.

Bertrand’s huge success is the result of clever marketing and good winemaking. His wines are modern, with good ripe fruits, yet remain true to their origins. His greatest achievement may have been to convince consumers that the Languedoc can make high-quality wine. His wines range in price from entry level up to €180 for a bottle of Clos d’Ora from his small remote estate in Minervois La Livinière. The flagship property is Château l’Hospitalet, a restaurant, shop with tasting room, and hotel on the Mediterranean coastline close to Narbonne. It is well worth dropping in if you are in the area this summer

Bargain Wine:

Naturae Merlot 2016, IGP Pays d’Oc Organic

14%, €11.50

 Sulphite-free wine, rich and powerful with stewed dark fruits.

 Stockists: Dunnes Stores

Four to choose from

Domaine de Villemajou 2014, Boutenac, Corbières

14%, €20.95

 Very tasty broad rustic dark fruits and liquorice. Good with cassoulet.

 Stockists: O’Briens

Cigalus Blanc 2015, IGP Aude Hauterive

14.5%, €38

 Voluptuous peach and apricot fruits overlaid with subtle oak. Excellent wine, brimming with character.

 Stockists: O’Briens

Domaine de l’Aigle Pinot Noir 2014, Haute Vallée de l’Aude

13%, €17.95

 Elegant soft piquant raspberry and dark cherry fruits with a smoky note. Good with grilled duck breast.

 Stockists: O’Briens

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

Three easy-to-make cocktails to while away those lazy days

image-2

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 19th August, 2017.

This week, a few refreshing cocktails to enjoy in the sunshine. I am not usually a fan of wine cocktails; it seems sacrilegious to dilute or adulterate such a great beverage.

However, in the summer, when reviving low-alcohol drinks are essential, they seem appropriate. Gin is the great cocktail spirit, and there is no shortage of refreshing drinks to conjure up.

Elderflower & Savvy

It is often said that Sauvignon Blanc smells and tastes of elderflower, so not surprisingly, the two go well together. If you are feeling lazy, the Blossom Hill Elderflower & Lemon Spritz (5.5% alcohol), a very refreshing summery glass of wine, is an easy alternative.

Ingredients:
One  bottle of chilled inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, Chile or elsewhere;
150-200ml elderflower cordial;
1 750ml bottle of chilled sparkling water;
Two unwaxed limes (available in Marks & Spencer) or unwaxed lemons;
Ice.

Method:
Mix the cordial and wine together in a large jug, add sliced limes (or lemons), sparkling water and ice, tasting as you proceed, until it seems right. Serve with a sprig of mint.

Rebujito

I adore all kinds of sherry, and fino is a fantastic summer drink. However, fino’s 15% alcohol means a certain level of restraint is required. Rebujito is the favoured fiestas drink in Andalucía, and could not be easier to make.

The fino featured below is exquisite, and possibly wasted here. You could buy a bottle of Tio Pepe for the cocktail and save the Callejuela for a treat before dinner.

Spirits writer David Broom recommends using fino sherry instead of vodka for a lighter Bloody Mary, which worked very well. Alternatively, you could make a  P&T – a white port & tonic, garnished with lemon and mint.

Ingredients:
One bottle chilled fino sherry;
1 750 ml bottle of chilled sparkling water;
Ice;
One lemon.

Method:
Mix roughly equal quantities of sherry and sparkling water (some people use fizzy lemonade). Add a few cubes of ice and a few slices of lemon. Garnish with mint. Gin is a great summery drink, whether mixed with tonic water, or in a classic Tom Collins. This recipe, courtesy of Susie Atkins in the Telegraph, is delicious.

Ingredients:

50ml gin;
Two sprigs of fresh mint;
1cm slice of cucumber quartered;
100ml Elderflower pressé (or cordial mixed with sparkling water);
Ice;
A sprig of mint and slice of lemon to garnish.

Method:

Put the two sprigs of mint and slices of cucumber and gin into a cocktail shaker. Muddle (or bash) them around together for a minute, strain into a tall glass, add elderflower pressé and a few cubes of ice, and garnish with lemon and mint.

Bargain Wine:

 Costa Fresca Sauvignon Blanc 2016, San Antonio Valley,
14%, €13.30

 A very attractive Sauvignon with rich textured tropical fruit and great intensity for a wine at this price. Stockists: Marks & Spencer.

 Lone Kauri Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Marlborough,
13%, €14.99 – €10 on promotion

Elderflower aromas and  rich gooseberry fruits; classic Marlborough Sauvignon. Stockists: SuperValu.

Callejuela Manzanilla Fina NV,
15%, €17

 Mouth-watering and fresh with citrus fruits and subtle green olives and almonds. Perfect on its own or in the Rebujito above. Stockists: World Wide Wines; Green Man Wines; Redmonds; Whelehan’s; 64 Wines.

 Boyle’s Small Batch Irish Botanical Gin,
40%, €24.99

 Excellent award-winning gin (made by Blackwater distillery) full of fruit, vibrant juniper and elderflower. Stockists: Aldi.

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

Lighter, fresher wines from cooler, greener France

Vines at Domaine de Martinolles, in Saint-Hilaire. Photograph: Domaines Paul Mas

Vines at Domaine de Martinolles, in Saint-Hilaire. Photograph: Domaines Paul Mas

First published in The Irish Times on Saturday, 12th August, 2017.

The delightful green valleys of southwest France, with their spectacular backdrop of the Pyrenees, are among my favourite parts of that country. Nestling in the Aude valley is the pleasant town of Limoux. It is actually part of Languedoc, a 20-minute drive from the citadel of Carcassonne, yet it seems a world apart. Higher, cooler and greener, the Limoux region produces wines that are lighter and fresher.

Limoux was originally known for its sparkling wine, which it claims is the oldest, predating champagne. Three styles are produced. Blanquette de Limoux, 90 per cent of which is made up of the local Mauzac grape, is a traditional, very distinctive sparkling wine. Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale is cidery, unfiltered, sweetish and lightly fizzy – an acquired taste but pleasant on a warm day. Crémant de Limoux has up to 80 per cent Chardonnay, plus Pinot Noir and Chenin Blanc.

Plantings of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay have grown in recent years. White Limoux can include Mauzac, but many are 100% Chardonnay. The wine must be fermented in oak barrels. You have probably been drinking the Chardonnay without realising it. For years the bigger producers sourced grapes here to freshen their Vins de Pays d’Oc. Some, such as Gérard Bertrand and Domaines Paul Mas, have invested in properties there – Domaine de l’Aigle, and Château de Martinolles and Domaine Astruc, respectively. Production is still dominated by two local co-operatives, which produce large quantities of well-made, occasionally exciting wines. You will find all of these on the shelves of our supermarkets.

There are seven appellations in Limoux, and seven permitted red-grape varieties. Strangely, the authorities couldn’t find space for Pinot Noir, the rapidly emerging real star of the region. Already the Pinots from Domaine Begude, Domaine d’Antugnac and Domaine de l’Aigle are cracking value for money. I can only see them getting better. For the moment they all must go under the broad IGP Pays d’Oc designation. Chardonnay from here can be spectacularly good, with something of the richness and depth of a good white Burgundy but without the price tag.

The real interest in Limoux is provided by a small group of outsiders. I am a fan of Domaine Begude (stocked by O’Briens, along with those of Domaine de l’Aigle), run by the Englishman James Kinglake and his wife, Catherine. The Chardonnay-based wines are excellent, along with some great Pinot Noir, Grüner Veltliner and Gewürztraminer.

Just over the hill, the Anglo-Dutch Panman family run Château Rives Blanques, an estate that produces a range of very well-made still and sparkling wines. Domaine d’Antugnac, run by two families from Burgundy, offers very good Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and other wines. My favourite (Swiss-owned) sparkling-wine producer, J Laurens, is, sadly, not currently available in Ireland, as far as I know.

Bottles of the Week

Pinot Noir 2015, Domaine d’Antugnac, IGP Haute Vallée de l’Aude 13%, €16.15
Light, very engaging wine with slightly earthy red-cherry fruits. Drink cool with white meats and charcuterie. From Wines Direct in Mullingar and at Arnotts department store in Dublin

Chardonnay 2016, Terroir 1130, Domaine de Begude, IGP Haute Vallée de l’Aude 13%, €17.95
Superb racy, succulent fresh pears with a solid backbone of acidity. It will change your mind about Chardonnay. From O’Briens

Limoux 2015, Château Rives-Blanques Odyssée 13%, €24.50
Fragrant with delicious textured peach fruits held together by a cleansing citrus acidity. Great wine. From Thomas’s, Foxrock, D18; Whelehans Wines, Loughlinstown, D18

This Week’s Bargain

Limoux 2015 Château Martinolles 13.5%, €15
Medium bodied, with generous creamy pears and custard. Perfect with salmon or lighter chicken dishes. From Molloys Liquor Stores

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

Time to go on the dry and roll out the Riesling

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 4th August, 2017

As we move into full summer mode, it is time to return to one of the great loves of my life, Riesling. If you are beginning to suffer from Sauvignon fatigue, or tiring of tasteless Pinot Grigio, then this is the time to acquaint yourself with one of the world’s great wines. Dry (and even off-dry) Riesling is fresh and aromatic, perfect for drinking with or without food during the summer months. The wines usually have a class and complexity that leaves the two aforementioned grape varieties trailing in their wake.

Germany is still the best producer of Riesling in the world. A few words worth remembering here; trocken means dry in German, so you can expect these to be fairly dry or bone dry. A Kabinett without the word trocken will be off-dry, but don’t let this put you off; this is a classic style that the Mosel region does really well. The wines can be exceptional. But the fashion in Germany is for trocken, so most wines will be dry.

After Germany, Austria, Australia and Alsace all make very good dry versions. The Austrian wines tend to be a little more full-bodied, but it depends on vintage and winemaker. My favourite region is probably Kamptal, but many other Riesling aficionados prefer the richer style found in the Wachau.

National grape

Most parts of Germany produce a decent Riesling; it is their national grape after all. The Mosel and Rheingau are probably the best known, but the Rheinhessen, Nahe and Franken all offer wines that are every bit as good. Each region produces wine with its own distinctive style, while still remaining unmistakably Riesling.  Most decent retail shops now have at least one German or Austrian Riesling, including some of the multiples. I would steer clear of those under €10, unless you want to relive past experiences with Liebfraumilch and other sweetish nasties. The best German and Austrian Rieslings are in great demand at home and abroad, so sadly, the best do not come cheap. However, the overall quality is both very high and consistent. As Riesling ages very well, don’t be too concerned if you are offered wines that are two to three years old. You should be in for a treat.

The lighter off-dry wines of the Mosel are perfect deckchair wines, for sipping in the shade, on their own, or with a few nibbles. The bigger, drier trocken wines fit this bill too, but are also very much at home with seafood and white meats. My own favourite match is with fresh Irish crab, but Riesling also makes a great partner for many Asian foods, sushi and green curry in particular.

Four Rieslings to try

 dscf7496Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Kabinett 2014, Markus Molitor 10%. €26.95

Pristine, lightly honeyed peaches with a clean mineral core, the off-dry finish perfectly balanced by the lively acidity. Stockists: Searsons, Monkstown; Baggot Street Wines.

dscf7497Platin Riesling 2015, Niederösterreich, Jurtschitsch, Austria 12.5%. €22.50

Bone dry with delightful rich apricot fruits  cut through with citrus and spice. Stockists: Quintessential Wines, Drogheda; 64 Wine.

dscf7516Riesling Trocken 2016, Wagner Stempel, Rheinhessen 12%. €20

Succulent, mouthwatering peach and pineapple with a fine crisp dry finish. Stockists: Avoca Rathcoole; Drinkstore; Sweeney’s; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Martin’s, Fairview; Clontarf Wines.

dscf7499Dr L Riesling 2015, Loosen, Mosel 8.5%. €14

Lean, clean fresh green apple and pear fruits with an off-dry finish.

Stockists: Morton’s, Ranelagh; Jus de Vine; Nolan’s, Clontarf.

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →

The reds and rosés of the Loire

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 29th July, 2017

A very happy wine trade friend recently returned from his family holiday in France. Having pitched their tent in a campsite by the river, they spent two glorious sunny weeks wandering down to the shops to stock up on local foods, which they brought home, cooked and consumed, accompanied by an array of local wines. They were fortunate to be based in the Loire valley, a beautiful region with plenty of great summer wines to offer.

 The region is home to sparkling, white, rosé, red and sweet wines. For white wines, they offer much more than Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Not only has Muscadet revived itself and is producing excellent wines at very favourable prices, but producers seem to have made great progress in taming the Chenin Blanc. But this week, we stay with reds (and rosés), both very food-friendly summer wines that are perfect with lighter foods.

 You will find some Pinot Noir, Malbec, Gamay and a little Cabernet Sauvignon, but the great red grape of the Loire is Cabernet Franc. Long thought to be a cousin of the better-known Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, along with Sauvignon Blanc, is actually the parent of same. You will only find it in quantity in two other parts of the world; the right bank of Bordeaux and northeastern Italy. Essentially, it is a lighter, early-drinking version of Cabernet Sauvignon, although one of the greatest, most long-lived Bordeaux, Ch Cheval-Blanc is more than 50 per cent Cabernet Franc, and some of the best Cabernet Franc from Chinon and Bourgeuil also mature wonderfully. It also ripens a week or two earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, a real advantage in the cooler Loire valley.

Leafy flavours

In poor vintages, Loire Cab Franc can be a little too green and herbaceous, although this happens far less frequently these days thanks to better viticulture and climate change. Young wines have lovely subtle aromas of and juicy soft redcurrant and blackcurrant fruits. It is generally light in alcohol, with a refreshing acidity, making it a perfect summer wine, served cool or even lightly chilled. The more serious wines repay, keeping up to 20 years, when the wines develop wonderful soft leafy flavours and aromas, sometimes with a characteristic flavours described as pencil shavings.  They are among my favourite wines. Compared to Bordeaux and other regions, they are ridiculously cheap.

As mentioned last week, the Loire also produces very good rosé wines; the best-known is Rosé d’Anjou, which tends to be off-dry. JNwine.com has a good range of well-priced Loire reds and rosés. Searsons has the tasty Chinon Clos des Godeaux (€12.95) and Quintessential (Drogheda) an excellent Saumur-Champigny Domaine des Roches Neuves (€24.50).

BARGAIN WINE

Saumur-Champigny 2015 Plessis–Duval

12.5% (€15)
A delicious light juicy wine filled with crunchy blackcurrant fruits.
Stockists: Marks & Spencer

Saumur Rosé 2016, Bouvet-Ladubet

12.5% (€16.95)
A delicious grown-up rosé with elegant redcurrant and raspberry fruits and a lip-smacking dry finish. Try with salmon.
Stockists: Whelehan’s Wines, Loughlinstown.

Saumur-Champigny “Tuffe” 2014, Ch du Hureau, Organic

13% (€19.50/£13.96)
Classic Cabernet Franc with lovely refreshing red and blackcurrant fruits on nose and palate.
Stockists: JNwine.com.

Saumur-Champigny 2015 Ch de Villeneuve, Organic

13%(€18.00)
Perfect smooth ripe blackcurrant and cassis fruits. A charmer.
Stockists: Le Caveau; Blacrock Cellar; Clontarf Wines; Corkscrew; Green Man Wines; World Wide Wines; Bradleys.

Posted in: Irish Times

Leave a Comment (0) →
Page 26 of 78 «...10202425262728...»