Wilson on Wines

Georgia on my mind: wine from the world’s oldest vineyards

Posted by admin on June 5, 2017

From The Irish Times, May 6th, 2017

Every wine-producing country likes to boast about their long history but none can compare with that of Georgia, with the possible exception of its Caucasian neighbours. Claims vary, some suggesting 8,000 years, but certainly this is the genuine cradle of viticulture, with a culture going back millennia. The word wine may even be derived from the Georgian word “gvino”. It is argued that merchants travelling along the trade routes carried vine cuttings in their saddlebags to the eastern Mediterranean in order to have something to barter. The more romantic version has the vine being carried beneath the armour of every Georgian soldier, so that if he fell in battle, the vine would take root and grow. It was here that we humans discovered that grapes (from wild vines), stored in containers throughout the winter turned into wine. The Georgians began using qvevri (or kvevri), large clay vessels of various sizes, to ferment the grapes and then age the resulting wine. Uniquely, this form of winemaking remains a strong part of Georgian culture, despite the influence of the communist state. (Georgian wines were always the most highly prized in the Soviet Union, leading to rumours of counterfeit wines in recent years). Red wines made this way tend to be vaguely similar to our idea of wine, but white wines, made by fermenting and ageing juice, skins and pips together can be shockingly different, with a unique texture and tannic structure.

Conventional winemaking

There is conventional winemaking as well, usually still using Georgian grape varieties – the country has over 500 unique varieties. The vine and wine was and is a central part of Georgian religion and culture. and history. Apparently a lengthy multi-course meal, called a supra, is a traditional feast lasting many hours, led by a Tamada (a sort of toastmaster) who introduces topics, toasts and possibly even songs to accompany the food. Look out for Mixed Melodies, the Irish Georgian Youth Choir, for an introduction to the musical side.

Georgian wines have become hugely fashionable in London, New York and elsewhere, particularly those made in qvevri, largely thanks to the alternative “natural” wine movement. It is worth noting that some argue that the Georgians, with a couple of thousand years’ extra experience, tend to produce the finest orange (or as they say amber) wines. Our own choice so far is limited, although that may change following a large tasting held by the Georgian embassy in Dublin late last year. Anyone fortunate enough to travel to Georgia for a holiday should take a look at gwa.ge for information on wine tourism. If you want to remember two Georgian varieties, Rkatsiteli is one of the most common white grapes, and Saperavi a favourite red grape. Or simply enjoy a piece of history drinking any of the wines below.

Best buy: Tbilvino Rkatsiteli Qvevris JSC Tibilvino 2014, €15 from M&S

Bargain wine: Tbilvino Rkatsiteli Qvevris JSC Tibilvino 2014, Kakheti Region, 12%, €15

An intriguing and very attractive wine: lightly nutty and spicy with orange peel and yellow fruits, medium-colour and racy acidity.

Stockists: Marks & Spencer.

Tbilvino Saperavi 2014, Khaketi Region, 13%, €19.50

A mainstream wine with smooth elegant, slightly earthy ripe red fruits. Enjoy with lamb.

Stockists: Terroirs, Donnybrook.

Shavkapito 2014, Pheasant’s Tears, Karteli, 13%, €25

Earthy tobacco and leather mingle with fresh damsons, ending with substantial tannins. Decant and enjoy with red meats.

Stockists: Baggot Street Wines, Green Man Wines, Le Caveau.

Tsitska 2014, Nikoladzeebis Marani, Nakhshirgele, 11%, €28.95

Lip-smacking savoury ginger spice and green apples. For the thrill seeker.

Stockists: Le Caveau, Green Man Wines.

Tags: Georgia, Marks & Spencer, Pheasant's Tears, Rkatsiteli, Saperavi, Tblivino Qvevris

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The best white wines to welcome in spring and summer

Posted by admin on June 5, 2017

The minute I began writing this piece, the weather turned. The morning was bright, sunny and almost balmy but by lunchtime the rain had arrived, and once the sun disappeared, it was bitterly cold too. I should not have tempted fate. Yet the last few days of sun and light had lifted my spirits; I started thinking about white wines in a serious way for the first time in about well six months actually. Cold weather of any kind seems to draw me inexorably to red wine. I hope that by the time you read this article, temperatures will have risen a little. Just in case, I include an inexpensive warming red.

Light white wine doesn’t have to mean cheap. There are those who think that any serous white must be rich and full-bodied, a sort of more-bangs-per-buck theory that doesn’t wash with me. With the increased demand for lower alcohol wines, we now have an excellent choice of high-quality light white wines that are packed full of flavour. These are nuanced wines that seek to slowly seduce rather than grab you from the outset, but they certainly don’t lack concentration or complexity. As ever, it means paying a little more, so this week’s wines are all over €20.

The first summer wine that comes to mind is German Riesling. I am also a huge fan of Hunter Valley Semillon, one of the greatest light white wines of the world. But this week we turn to a few other possibilities. The wines of the Loire Valley are tailor-made for drinking in good weather. The reds are light and summery, the rosés thirst-quenching and the white wines low in alcohol, crisp and always refreshing. All go really well with salads and cold meats, as well as white meats and fish.

Friuli-Venezia-Giulia

There is something inherently spring-like about Muscadet. It is one of the lightest wines, and perfect for summer drinking. Decent inexpensive versions abound, but there are some brilliant single-vineyard wines too. The Pouilly-Fumé, from one of the best producers, is perfect spring/summer drinking. Friuli-Venezia-Giulia is not very well-known over here, but the wines have long been revered in Italy as the country’s greatest white wines, possibly because there wasn’t much competition in the past. There are 17 permitted grape varieties and no fewer than 14 sub-regions. All this in a relatively small piece of land curling around the Adriatic, bordering Slovenia, Austria and the Veneto. In the past, many serious producers offered very rich textured wines often heavily influenced by oak. More recently Gravner and Radikon pioneered the skin contact and orange wine movement. I generally prefer the delicate, lighter wines made from local grape varieties such as the Ribolla below. The Friuli charmed me completely at a recent tasting.

Pouilly-Fumé 2015, André Dezat

12.5%

€21.95 /£16.50

Beautifully elegant and refined Sauvignon Blanc, perfumed and light with crisp green fruits.

Stockists: JNWine.com

I Clivi Ribolla 2015, Friuli

11.5%

€22

Citrus peel, herbs and almonds in a compelling and utterly delicious light dry wine.

Stockists: 64wine; Kellys, Clontarf; Listons; Green Man Wines.

Clisson 2013, Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine, Huchet & Mourat

12.5%

€24.75

Lifted floral aromas, precise rich concentrated pear fruits and a delightful cleansing minerality.

Stockists: 64 Wine; Jus de Vine; Fallon & Byrne; Searsons.

Tags: André Dezat, Clisson Muscadet, I Clivi

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Very special white wines from ancient Italian vines

Posted by admin on June 5, 2017

This week, some very special white wines. The rugged volcanic mountains of Campania rise up from the spectacular coastline of the Gulf of Naples and Amalfi. Fifty kilometres east of the tourist hotspots, the province of Irpinia is a sparsely populated mixed-farming region that has seen tragedy in recent times: in 1980, an earthquake killed 3,000 people and left 300,000 homeless. Many left the region entirely, but others remained and successfully fought to establish Irpinia as a centre of viticulture.

This part of Campania produces wonderful wines with a unique personality. These are some of the most ancient vineyards of all, responsible for supplying ancient Rome with her finest wines. The 20th century was less kind, but the last 20 years have seen a great revival, and some of the wines are now ranked alongside the greatest white wines of Italy.

Acquired taste

Camapania boasts three unique white grapes: Fiano, Greco, and Falanghina. The wines are not your standard aromatic, fruity numbers; they may even be an acquired taste, but certainly one worth acquiring. Fiano is one of Italy’s best white grapes. Lauded since Roman times but almost forgotten until the 1970s and 1980s, it produces medium-bodied wines with floral or herbal aromas, and peach, pear and honey on the palate. With age, it develops flavours of toasted nuts and smoke. As with all wines of the region, it has good acidity, often described as mineral, due to the volcanic soils. Twenty or so communes in the province of Avellino produce the finest examples, under the name Fiano di Avellino.

Difficult to grow

Greco is another ancient variety, brought by the Greeks (hence the name) to Italy. It is difficult to grow, low-yielding and sensitive, and the wines are prone to oxidation. In style, it is even less fruity than Fiano, sometimes tannic, high in acidity and alcohol, flinty and mineral, the nearest white wine gets to red. It has peach fruits, sometimes almonds and a subtle, pleasant bitterness on the finish. The most renowned examples, labeled Greco di Tufo, come from the town of the same name, where sulphur was mined in the 19th century.

Falanghina is the third white variety, again ancient and possibly Roman. Some argue that it was responsible for Falernum, the greatest of Roman wines. More recently, it was considered inferior to the other two varieties, producing wines full of acidity but lacking in fruit. However, over the last decade better producers have been creating very attractive wines full of rich, tropical fruit.

Most of the above wines sell for €15-€25, reasonable value for unique wines generally made by very small producers. They are not really wines to sip on their own, but shine alongside shellfish and other seafood.

Three to try

Greco di Tufo 2015, Loggia della Serra, Terredora di Paolo

12.5%

€16.95

Very appealing rich peach fruits on nose and palate, with a gently refreshing saline finish.

Stockists: O’Briens

Paóne Fiano 2014, Cantina del Barone, Campania

12.5%

€22.95

Quite full-bodied with toasted almonds, pears and a lightly smoky touch.

Stockists: Quintessential Wines, Drogheda; Wicklow Wines; Grapevine, Dalkey.

Greco di Tufo 2014, Cantina dell’Angelo

13%

€24.95

Grilled nuts and red apples with a bracing acidity. Serve with a crab salad.

Stockists: Quintessential Wines, Drogheda; Wicklow Wines; Grapevine, Dalkey.

Tags: Falanghina, Fiano, Greco di Tufo, Irpina, Terradora

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Is it time for a new way to classify wine?

Posted by admin on June 5, 2017

At one time all wine literature was laid out by country and region; then came wine by style. In recent months it occurred to me that we should categorise our wines slightly differently – by producer type. I reckon they can be roughly divided into four groups, with some overflow. The problem is knowing where to put your favourite wine, when everyone is pretending to be small and artisan.

Big Wine

Like big beer, these are the large-scale industrial producers, although they don’t always like being called that. Modern technology allows them to churn out huge quantities of soft fruity, often off-dry wines that are drinkable if rarely exciting. They will usually have several ranges of wine, including some very expensive ones. We should probably be thankful for these producers; they keep us supplied with plenty of drinkable everyday wines and some of the more expensive wines can be very good.

Small and medium farmers

Most often found in Europe, many small and medium-size farmers simply sell their grapes to the local co-operative, which then falls into the “Big Wine” category. But some do produce their own wine. Generally it will be okay, occasionally very good. They often struggle to market their wines and earn a living unless they come from a fairly well-known area such as Sancerre, Soave or Rioja, and can therefore charge higher prices. The best producers within this group are responsible for the most interesting and best-value wines. It is here that you will find the truest expressions of a grape variety, climate or region.

The wild bunch

The nearest wine gets to hipster. Often young, experimental and dismissive of all other producers, they seek out new grape varieties, unheard of ancient regions, and love to make organic, biodynamic or even natural wines using as little modern technology (or sulphur) as possible. If the winemaker is good, the wines can be excellent – if not, they smell and taste of vinegar or poo, or both together.

Luxury goods

These will probably come from a very well-known posh region such as Bordeaux, Champagne, Rioja, the Napa Valley or Margaret River. The owner, often a wealthy businessman or multinational, will hire a very expensive consultant who will produce plush, lush, rich, smooth, ultra-ripe red wines with plenty of new oak. You won’t always be able to tell the grape variety or wine region, but you can tell it costs a lot; it has been teased and manicured like the greens at Augusta. These wines are made to be drunk by other very wealthy people who don’t always know a huge amount about wine, but want to have the best of everything.

This week, three small to medium producers, plus a good value wine from a co-operative.

La Bicicleta Voladora 2015, Rioja

13.5%

€16.50

A delicious unoaked Rioja packed with succulent dark cherry and bramble fruits.

Stockists: 64wine, Glasthule.

Les Demoiselles de Ch Falfas 2015, Côtes de Bourg (biodynamic)

13.5%

€23.50

Forward bright juicy ripe dark fruits with a lovely balancing acidity. Perfect with the Sunday roast.

Stockists: Terroirs, Donnybrook

Domaine des Nugues 2015, Beaujolais Blanc

13%

€17.30

Delicious unoaked wine with gentle fruits, a lovely texture, a fine minerality and an excellent finish.

Stockists: Martin’s, Fairview; 64wine, Glasthule.

Tags: Beaujolais Blanc, Ch. Falfas, Chardinnay, Domaine des Nugues, La Bicicleta Rioja, La Bicicleta Voladora Rioja, Les demoiselles de Falfas, Rioja, Tempranillo

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Refreshing and elegant wines that quietly seduce

Posted by admin on June 5, 2017

Sometimes I yearn for a little peace. Tiring of aggressive reporters loudly interrogating their prey on Irish radio, I often turn over to Radio Four just to enjoy the soft mellifluous tones of Eddie Mair or Martha Kearney. I have similar feelings with food and wine; while I love powerful food, so many dishes seem to be a huge blast of flavour. Recipes invariably include a mass of spices, chilli, vinegar, and sugar. Noise and power is the order of the day.

Last week, I had a bowl of homemade beef consommé. It was full of lip-smacking meatiness, with notes of sweet carrot and other vegetables. It was light and yet it was full of flavour, proof that less can sometimes mean more. Less allows us to savour the subtle purity of a food, instead of a faux complexity that often masks inferior ingredients and simply overwhelms and confuses. The same holds with winemaking.

I like wines that gently seduce rather than roughly grab you by the collar. We are all too familiar with reading tasting notes that use descriptors such as powerful, rich, luscious and mouth-filling. Loud food needs similar wine; heavy, weighty and mouth-coating, higher in alcohol, maybe with a little residual sugar and new oak. Or cocktails. But these days, when I want something to drink, I inevitably find myself searching though my samples for something lighter and more elegant.

Poached sole

This Easter, I am sure the pages of various papers will be full of recipes for lamb laced with the aforementioned flavours. Instead, I may tuck into a fillet of sole poached in a cream and white wine sauce. If I have the energy and the time, I will follow this with a bowl of chicken consommé, possibly with a glass of amontillado sherry, and then a fairly plain roast; lamb studded with garlic, or a rib of beef, served with gravy, steamed potatoes with butter and parsley or a creamy mash, and young purple sprouting or creamed spinach. The traditional choice for such a meal would be a white Burgundy followed a fine mature claret or a Reserva Rioja. All of these would be entirely appropriate, and would fall into the category of “quiet”. But there are plenty of options, and as spring and summer beckon, I will certainly feature more.

Each of the wines below stopped me in my tracks over the last month or two. I had tried all three before, (the Crozes is an old favourite that ages well) but they all struck me as wines with an element missing in so many others – interest. Each sip seemed to bring another angle that made me want to take another sip. They were refreshing, elegant and restrained. And quiet.

Agustí Torelló Mata Cava Reserva 2011

11.5%, €29
Delicately fruity, toasted nuts, a subtle creamy texture and a dry finish. Delicious sparkling wine; the perfect aperitif.
Stockists: Mitchellandson.com (online only) and Sheridan’s Cheese shops.

Louro 2015, Valdeorras, Bodegas Rafael Palacios

13%
€24
A wonderful, sophisticated blend of citrus acidity and plump pear and melon fruits.
Stockists: Jus de Vine; 64wine; Green Man Wines; Corkscrew; Grapevine; Clontarf Wines.

Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2015 Yann Chave

13%
€27.95
Sublime rounded, elegant, dark cherry and plum fruits. Ripe with a savoury finish.
Donnybrook Fair; Searsons; Mortons; Ardkeen; Clontarf Wines; No1 Pery Square.

Tags: Augustín Torelló Mata, Cava, Louro 2015, Mitchell & Son, Rafael Palacios, Sheridan's, Valdeorras, Yan Chave Crozes Hermitage

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Slow Dão with wines from Portugal’s answer to Burgundy

Posted by admin on April 2, 2017

For some Dão is Portugal’s finest wine region, yet few wine drinkers have a clear picture of what the wines are like. It is often mentioned as Portugal’s answer to Burgundy. There are certain similarities; both produce lighter wines with good acidity, low in tannin, and sometimes low in alcohol too. Both wines seduce gently with perfume, finesse and elegance rather than power. But whereas Pinot Noir often tastes sweet (although it is bone dry) to me Dão is more savoury and often spicy with damson fruits – more like a Syrah from the Northern Rhône if you want a comparison.

Either way, Dão certainly deserves much more of our attention. Not only does it offer some great red wines at reasonably prices, it also produces some excellent dry white wines too. Both red and white wines (it is 80 per cent red) are made from Portuguese grape varieties.

Dão is a largish region in central northern Portugal. Circled by mountains, and therefore protected from both the Atlantic rains and the blasting heat of the interior, it has relatively dry, warm summers, perfect for the slow ripening of grapes. The granitic soils give good acidity, and the altitude (200-600m) keeps things cool too.

Winemaking skills

For many years, the region, although well-known, was held back by a bizarre law that obliged growers to sell their grapes to the local co-op, which often lacked the necessary winemaking skills. The result was large quantities of very dull tannic wines. But in recent years, there has been a blossoming of local talent, as well as an influx of other Portuguese winemakers. Not only are the wines far better, they are very reasonably priced too.

Two red grapes are worth special mention. This is the home of touriga macional, one of Portugal’s greatest grape varieties. You will also come across jaen, known as mencía in Galicia, a variety with huge potential. Then there is tinta roriz (Tempranillo) and alfrocheiro. For white wines, there is encruzado, possibly Portugal’s greatest white variety. It all adds up to an area that offers real excitement. At the less expensive end, the wines can be fabulously perfumed and lightly fruity. If you like less heavy wines, there are some real bargains, but the more expensive wines are great value too.

There is a limited range on offer in our shops, but it includes some great wines. I have already featured Touriga Nacional Rui Reguinga 2013 (€24.50, Terroirs, Donnybrook) and Jardim da Estrela 2014, an amazing €13 from Quintessential Wines. Both are well worth trying, as are the excellent FP wines from Filipa Pato in next-door Bairrada. If you travel to Portugal on holiday, I suspect there might be greater availability over there. jwilson@irishtimes.com

Paço dos Cunhas de Santar Nature 2012 (organic), Dão

14%

Wonderful smooth elegant dark fruits with light tannins on the finish.

McHugh’s; Martins; Baggot St Wines; Corkscrew; Donnybrook Fair; Morton’s Galway; Sweeney’s.

Dâo Rótulo 2015, Niepoort, Portugal

12.5%

€16.95

Delicious refreshing light red with a savoury edge to the clean damson fruits.

Stockists: Grapevine; Morton’s Ranelagh; Drinkstore; Redmonds; Baggot St Wines; Martins.

Quinta dos Carvalhais Encruzado 2015

13%

€29.99

Softly spicy with vibrant citrus and pear fruits. Engaging and sophisticated wine.

Stockists: Baggot St. Wines; Redmonds; Corkscrew.

Bargain Wine

Ribeiro Santos 2014 Dão

13.5%

€14.95

Harmonious pure damson and dark cherry fruits. Perfect with duck breast or pork. Excellent value.

Stockists: Fresh Outlets, La Touche, The Coachouse; Power & Co; D Six; Nectar; McGuinness Wines; Green Man Wines, Corkscrew.

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A Suitcase of Claret

Posted by admin on March 30, 2017

½ bottles can be very useful if dining à deux. However they are not easy to find and you will usually be charged a hefty premium. From tomorrow until the 19th April, select Centra stores nationwide will offer a six-pack of ½ bottles of Bordeaux, in a handy wooden suitcase, for a reasonable €30. I haven’t tasted all the wines yet, but the first two, Chants de Faizeau 2015, Montage St.-Emilion and Ch. de Courteillac 2015 Bordeaux, were very decent wines and good value for money at €5 each. The pack would also make a very nice gift for someone.

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BIODYNAMIC BORDEAUX – THE DELICIOUS WINES OF CH FALFAS

Posted by admin on March 24, 2017

CH. FALFAS

Côtes de Bourg

I have been enjoying the wines of Ch. Falfas for a few years now, and was delighted to receive an email from Terroirs in Donnybrook, mentioning that proprietor and winemaker Véronique Cochran would be showing her wines in their shop.

Véronique is originally from Saumur in the Loire, where her father Francois Bouchet, was the very first biodynamic grower. Given her upbringing it is not surprising all of her wines are biodynamic as well. ‘I could never do it another way’, she says. Their 20-hectare holding is split into two holdings, the largest part surrounding the very attractive Château. She is based in the Côtes de Bourg on the right bank of Bordeaux, and an area that can offer excellent value for money. They have around 55% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon co-planted with 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec, all traditional in the area.

I tasted each of her three separate cuvées. The wines were of a very high quality, and well-priced too. Véronique was both charming and knowledgeable. A great way to get the weekend started.

Les Demoiselles de Falfas 2015 €23.50

Made with very little maceration, this is a delicious forward, extrovert wine with bright fresh ripe dark fruits and a good easy finish. Lovely wine and very good value. Vêronique suggests trying it with lighter foods, including tomato-based dishes. This is named in honour of her two daughters.

Ch. Falfas 2012 €29.50

Light elegant nose, refined blackcurrant and plum fruits, good acidity and a lightly tannic finish. Classic Bordeaux just starting to drink very well.

Ch. Falfas 2010 €39

Excellent maturing nose and palate with leafiness, developing sweet red and black fruits, good concentration and finish. Nice wine.

Ch. Falfas 1995 No longer available.

Made by her late husband in a more extracted style, this had a lighter nose, showing real development, a minty, herbal character, and light red fruits. Drinking nicely now, but unlikely to improve further.

Le Chevalier de Ch. Falfas 2011 €59

Made from 750-780 year old vines. Super wine, with everything you look for in a young Bordeaux. Concentrated blackcurrant fruits, a lovely backbone of acidity, structured and firm with excellent length. You could drink this now, preferably decanted, but I would love to try it again in another five years.

Tags: Bordeaux, Ch. Falfas, Cotes du Bourg, Les demoiselles de Falfas, Terroirs Donnybrook

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St. Patrick’s Day wine weekend

Posted by admin on March 19, 2017

Nothing green here, but a few nice wines.

Clos Windsbuhl Gewurztraminer 2000, Domaine Zind Humbrecht

This had been languishing in my stash for a long time, probably because I am not a huge fan of gewurz, nor of white wines that are 15% alcohol (unless its sherry of course). I took a coravined glass, and it was just as I imagined it would be; big, rich textured and sweetish, with plenty of length.

Alpha Zeta Corvina 2015

Light easy refreshing glugger, with dark cherry fruits.

Anthill Farms Tina Marie Pinot Noir 2014, Russian River, California

A present from my sister who lives in California. This might be part of the new wave of lighter more elegant Californian wines we read about. It was very good; light slightly candied ripe cherries, but with a good acidic core, and nice length. Opened out beautifully to reveal a good depth of damson fruit. 13%.

Crozes- Hermitage 2015 Yann Chave

One of my favourite wines for many years, and one that ages very well too. A bit riper and rounder than usual, probably the vintage, but very stylish elegant dark cherry and damson fruits. Will improve with time. €27.95 – will feature in the Irish Times soon.

Quinta dos Carvalhais Encruzado 2015 Dao, Portugal

An oaked aged Encruzado? It works really well, with subtle oak, lovely refreshing acidity and plenty of fruit. Not cheap at €29.99 but very nice wine.

Tags: Alpha Zeta, Anthill Farms, Corvina, Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Gewurztraminer, Quinta dos Carvalhais, Yann Chave

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Ten Places to find a Decent Glass of Wine in Ireland

Posted by admin on March 19, 2017

First published in the Irish Times Saturday 18th March, 2017

A few years ago, I got in touch with wine distributors around the country and asked them to name a few of their favourite haunts, places where they could order a glass of decent wine. It didn’t seem a big ask, just half a dozen or more interesting wines served in a proper wine glass, but privately the majority expressed a deep frustration with their local offering. Things have changed for the better.

Many hotels continue to serve industrial quality Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and other standard names at exorbitant prices, but it seems that some pubs at least are starting to see the light, and are now serving a small rotating range of interesting wines at reasonable prices. The big move over the last few years has come from wine shops. A number of them now morph into wine bars in the early evening, or have a separate mini-wine bar attached. It is all about the wine and not the food, which is usually pretty basic (cold meats or cheese) and mark-ups are a fraction of those in a full-blown restaurant.

Corkage fee

As well as having plenty of wines by the glass, many allow you to choose any wine from the shelves, adding a corkage fee of €5-€10. This makes it worthwhile buying a bottle of something really good. For the moment, most seem to be in the greater Dublin area, and include Grapevine in Dalkey, Green Man, Terenure, Baggot Street Wines, La Touche in Greystones, 64 Wine and Mitchell & Son in Glasthule, Whelehan’s in Loughlinstown and Fallon & Byrne on Exchequer Street. All of these are well worth trying out if you like wine.

My top 10 is regionally balanced. I haven’t been to every one of these, but I have fairly reliable spies in most corners of the country. Ely wine bars can claim to be daddy of them all, now celebrating 15 years of trading, offering a superb selection of 80 wines by the glass. They have now teamed up with 64 Wine in Glasthule; the outcome is awaited with interest.

Of the newer establishments in Dublin, Piglet, on Cows Lane in Temple Bar, is a wine bar or osteria. They offer a great range of wines by the glass, alongside some amazingly good food, and Green Man Wines in Terenure would be a regular haunt if I lived slightly nearer.

The place to go

Moving southwards, I hear great things about the wine selection in The Tannery wine bar in Dungarvan. L’Atitude51 is the place to go in Cork city. Lively and fun, there is always a great range of wines open. Likewise, The Black Pig in Kinsale. Galway has Cava Bodega and Martine’s but I love the fascinating wines offered by Sheridan’s Wine Bar– and of course the cheeses. Westport has the eclectic Gallery Wine Bar, although if you prefer a more traditional atmosphere, McGings offers five wines by the glass, alongside excellent pints and local beers. I have yet to make it to Hargadons in Sligo, but everyone tells me I should make the trip. In Belfast, Cave, part of the excellent Ox restaurant, is a lovely pared-down wine bar with an eclectic list of wines, and, as you might expect, some very nice nibbles too.

I have missed anyone out, feel free to send me an email.

The first readers to email/tweet me regarding omissions were fans of Stanley’s excellent wine bar & restaurant on Andrew Street in Dublin 2. It certainly has one of the best, most eclectic lists in the country, plus a great range of interesting sherry by the glass.

Posted in: Irish Times