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Irish Cognac & French Whiskey

First published in the Irish Times, March 11th, 2017

In the 18th century, Irish businessmen were very prominent in the Cognac region. Two houses are direct descendants of Irish families and many others had strong Irish connections. These are detailed by historian Louis Cullen in his book The Irish Brandy Houses of 18th-Century France (Lilliput Press).

Hennessy is well-known. The family has been involved in Cognac since 1724 and there are still several Hennessys involved. Maurice travels the world as brand ambassador, as well as selling grapes from his vineyard to Hennessy. His brother Frédéric lives in the original Hennessy homestead in Cork. The Hennessy three-star is very popular in this country. Richard Hennessy created the first XO for his friends. The current version is a real treat.

Delftware

The other “Irish” house is Delamain. Nicolas Delamain settled in Ireland in 1639. His descendent Henry was the first in Ireland to fire delftware with coals, examples of which can be seen in the National Museum, and were illustrated in a series of stamps. Henry’s nephew James Delamain moved from Dublin to France and, in 1759, formed a partnership with his father-in-law, proprietor of one of the oldest cognac houses. The company is still owned and run by two descendants of the original Delamain, and is one of the only family-owned companies in Cognac.

Delamain is unique amongst cognac houses in that it produces no three-star or VSOP cognac. The entry level is an XO, and that is made from 25-year-old spirits (XO or extra old needs only to be six years old). They do not add caramel or syrup to make it darker and sweeter, hence the name Pale & Dry. It is my favourite Cognac.

Method & Madness

Irish Distillers, by far the largest producer of Irish whiskey, is now owned by French company Pernod Ricard. They have just released four new whiskeys under the banner of Method & Madness. These are intended to be a blend of curiosity and intrigue (the madness), with the tradition and expertise at Midleton Distillery (the method).  Each is distilled or aged in a different way, giving it a unique flavour. Prices run from €49 to €79. Other new releases include Roe & Co, a new premium blended whiskey from Diageo, named after George Roe, who in the 19th century ran the largest distillery in Thomas Street. It is deliciously smooth, rich and concentrated. Down the road Teeling have released the third bottling of The Revival Single Malt, a 14-year-old whiskey aged in Pineau de Charentes casks priced at €120.

image-8Method & Madness Single Pot Still Whiskey French Chestnut Finish

46%

€69

Finished in French Chestnut barrels, this is a superb whiskey brimming with spice and subtle dried fruits ending with a lingering rich complex woody note.

Stockists: Specialist off-licences and Duty-free.

 

 

 

image-4Delamain Pale & Dry X.O. Grande Champagne Cognac

40%

€82

A slightly lighter (hence the name) and more delicate cognac, but certainly not lacking in flavour. Exquisite, smooth rounded and complex fruits.

Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Baggot Street Wines.

 

 

 

 

image-6Hennessy X.O. Cognac

40%

€140

Richer in style than the Delamain, but equally attractive – spice, leather, vanilla and oak. smooth

Stockists: widely available.

 

 

 

 

imageBargain Wine:

Craft 3 Chenin Blanc 2015, Stellenbosch, South Africa

12.5%

€15

Lightly floral nose with crisp apple fruits, a touch of honey, a hint of caramel, wand a dry finish. Plump and very moreish.

Stockists: Marks & Spencer

 

 

 

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Dão Ribeiro Santo 2014, Portugal

Dão Ribeiro Santo 2014, Portugal

dscf7315Dão Ribeiro Santo 2014, Portugal

A lovely harmonious medium-bodied wine with pure damson and dark cherry fruits.

Perfect with duck breast or pork dishes.

I have just finished a tasting of wines from the Dão region for a piece in the Irish Times. I suspect this will feature strongly. Dão is one of the best-known wine regions of Portugal, but until recently, often produced very average wines. This has changed over the last decade; if you enjoy light to medium-bodied wines, then this is well worth checking out.

€14.95 from Fresh Outlets, La Touche, Greystones; The Coachouse, Ballinteer; Power & Co, Lucan, D Six; Nectar, Sandyford; McGuinness Wines, Dundalk; Green Man Wines, Terenure; Corkscrew, Chatham Street.

 

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Pato Frio Selecçâo 2015, Alentejo, Portugal

Pato Frio Selecçâo 2015, Alentejo, Portugal

pato-frio-2015Pato Frio Selecçâo 2015, Alentejo, Portugal

This white, with its light tropical fruits and refreshing citrus edge tasted of summers and holidays past. Apparently it is a vegan wine.

Drink on its own, creamy cheeses or with light seafood dishes.

I am a big fan of Portuguese wines. We are probably more familiar with the red wines, but the whites can be excellent too. For wine nerds, the good news is they have a dazzling array of their own indigenous grape varieties too. This wine is made from a blend of Antão Vaz (50%), Arinto (25%) and Síria (25%).

€14.95 from La Touche, Greystones; O’Briens; Fresh Outlets; Corkscrew; Fallon & Byrne; D Six, Harold’s Cross; Deveney’s, Dundrum; Sweeney’s, Glasnevin; The Wine Well, Dunboyne.

 

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As Sortes 2014, Rafael Palacios, Valedorras

As Sortes 2014, Rafael Palacios, Valedorras

image-6As Sortes 2014, Rafael Palacios, Valedorras

An exhilarating, sophisticated mix of concentrated rounded red apple fruits that fill the mouth, a subtle nuttiness and an intense saline, mineral backbone that adds real verve and attack. The combination of rich fruit and bracing acidity is unusual but fascinating. Not cheap but it compares favourably with a top white Burgundy, and is every bit as good.

I would try this with crab, grilled black sole or a buttery salmon dish.

I have written about Bolo and Louro before; As Sortes is the next step up the ladder in the wines of Rafael Palacios. One of the key figures in reviving the fortunes of the near extinct Godello vines in Valdeorras, Palacios gave a short but excellent master class in Dublin this week. I hope to get around to writing a full blog some time soon. In the meantime this wonderful wine, tasted at the master class. It is made from six small Sortes or plots of Godello, planted in the 1970’s.

€51 from 64wines, Glasthule; Clontarf Wines; Green Man Wines, Terenure; The Corkscrew, Chatham St.

 

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Vidal Reserve Syrah 2013, Hawke’s Bay, Gimblett Gravels, New Zealand

Vidal Reserve Syrah 2013, Hawke’s Bay, Gimblett Gravels, New Zealand

vidal_res_syrahVidal Reserve Syrah 2013, Hawke’s Bay, Gimblett Gravels, New Zealand

Elegant savoury dark cherry fruits and spicy black peppers with a very attractive grainy texture and some drying tannins on the finish. An impressive almost European style of wine.

It was certainly much better with food, in my case a roast guinea fowl.

Gimblett Gravels has emerged as one of the best places in New Zealand to produce red grapes (leaving Pinot Noir aside). The deep gravel soils produce perfectly ripe wines with uniquely savoury flavours and balanced alcohol levels – this wine is 13.5%. They are well worth seeking out. At €17.35 this is something of a bargain, and should appeal to fans of the Northern Rhône. Available from Winesoftheworld.ie.

 

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My (alcohol free) Elixir of Life

My (alcohol free) Elixir of Life

New season extra virgin olive oil.

For the last couple of years I have been given, or bought, a few bottles of new season Tuscan extra virgin olive oil. It has become one of my favourite seasonings at this time of the year.

In the past, most wine producers in Chianti Classico and elsewhere in Tuscany produced both wine and olive oil. More recently David Gleave of wine importers Liberty encouraged a handful of top estates to make high quality oil; Liberty then release the new vintage every November or December (The River Café in London are huge fans, and even have their own bottling). In some ways, it is a pity that it cannot be released freshly pressed the following summer when the salad season is in full flow. However, it is a great addition to the store cupboard in winter and spring. I have been come quite addicted to it and drizzle it at the last minute on a variety of foods, from beans, pasta dishes with courgettes, cauliflower, peppers or on plain pasta with Parmesan, roast vegetables, steak and a host of other dishes. It brightens up just about everything, adding a slightly bitter peppery kick and a pure fruity richness. With a sprinkle of pepper and salt, it becomes a perfect dressing for any winter salad too. I am sure I remember reading that extra virgin live oil is full of anti-oxidants and all sorts of other good things, so it could be classified as the most delicious of all health foods.

DSCF7378

The oils are expensive – €20 or more for a bottle of half-bottle, but they last a while. Not too long though; they will last a year or more but I reckon they should be finished by early summer. Check the back label for a harvest date – 2016 is what you want.

Earlier this year, David Gleave of Liberty gave a group of us an olive oil tasting in Jamie’s Italian in Dundrum. The names included Alpha Zeta, Capezzana (delicious) Petrolo, Fèlsina, and Fontodi. My favourite was the Fontodi, an organic oil, and I have a ½ bottle of that in my kitchen, but to be honest I would have been happy to have a bottle of any of these.

They are available from Fallon & Byrne; Jamie’s Italian; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Lotts & Co, D4; Thomas’s ,Foxrock, Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; Clontarf Wines; Blackrock Cellars; Terroirs, Donnybrook; Green Man Wines, Terenure; Ballymaloe Garden Café; Red Island, Skerries; Grapevine, Dalkey; Sweeney’s, Glasnevin; Hole in the Wall, D7; Redmonds of Ranelagh; Cirillo’s, Baggot Street.

 

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Tasting Dao & Friends to Dinner – the weekend in wine

DSCF7366

Trimbach Reserve Riesling 2010 – this featured in my wine guide this year. A great mature waxy, nutty bone dry Riesling that retails for €23. Went very nicely with prawns and a Japanese cucumber and seaweed salad.

Four wines from Dão, part of a tasting for an Irish Times article. The region produces some lovely refreshing red and white wines.

Santenay 1er cru Clos Rousseau Les Fourneaux VV 2013, Bachey-Legros – around €30 from Le Caveau, this was quite closed with spicy dark cherries and a savoury edge. Good but not great – I suspect it will improve over the next year or two, and I probably should have decanted it. Nice wine though.

Castello di Fonterutoli 2004, Chianti Classico,  Mazzei – I bought six bottles of this ten years ago. You’d need 20/20 vision to read the vintage. It was very good, medium to full-bodied, with a good tannic backbone and dark chocolate and slightly earthy very ripe dark fruits. Went well with roast lamb.

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Enjoying Nebbiolo a rite of passage for wine nerds

“Do people really drink that?” a student asked me a few years ago on taking her first ever mouthful of Nebbiolo. This variety, from Piemonte in northeastern Italy, makes some of the country’s finest wines. But with its firm dark impenetrable fruit, high acidity and swingeing tannins, Nebbiolo can never be described as easy-drinking. These are wines for the aesthete rather than the hedonist .

Before you stop reading, two things: first of all, most Nebbiolo nowadays is made in a much more approachable style than in times past. Secondly, as with all wines, you need to drink it in the right setting. Arm yourself with a bowl of tajarín, the fine egg-rich pasta of the region, accompanied by wild mushrooms, white truffles, rabbit or a beef ragù, or maybe a risotto, or agnolotti del plin (little folds of pasta stuffed with meat), or maybe simply some roast game or aged parmesan, and Nebbiolo begins to make perfect sense. The food of Piemonte, centred on the towns of Alba and Asti, is amongst Italy’s finest. So are the wines.

Enjoying Nebbiolo is almost a rite of passage for real wine nerds. Tannic and alcoholic they may be, but really good Nebbiolo also has fleeting aromas of violets and perfume, an array of supremely elegant complex fruits that have you scrabbling for adjectives  – leather, truffles, black olives, tar, licorice, wood smoke and much more besides. Those tannins allow the wines to age and improve for decades in great vintages.

Patchwork of vineyards

The grape reaches its finest expression in the two small towns of Barolo and Barbaresco, both on the valley floor, surrounded by vineyards high up the slopes, peeking through a shroud of swirling mist. Often called the Burgundy of Italy, the region has a similar patchwork of tiny vineyards, with holdings scattered throughout. As in Burgundy, each sub-region, each vineyard, every change in height and exposure is reflected in the wines. Sadly, the prices are fairly Burgundian too.

In the past, many young men and women deserted the region for the two big local employers – Fiat in Turin and the massive Ferrero chocolate plant, manufacturers of Nutella and Ferrero Rocher, which gobbles up one of the region’s other great products, hazelnuts. Nowadays, farmers with a field or two in either town own a very valuable asset.

There are plenty of other wines produced in the region, including the more approachable Barbera and Dolcetto, as well as some good white wines, but Nebbiolo is the undoubted king, and Barolo and Barbaresco its finest expression. Langhe Nebbiolo is their Bourgogne Rouge: in the right hands it is much more approachable and often good value. Further north in Piemonte, Proprietà Sperino produces silkier wines with a lovely mineral streak.

Langhe Nebbiolo 2014, Massolino, 13.5%, €29.99
Fragrant violets and redcurrants; tangy, elegant, approachable wine with light tannins on the finish.
Stockists: Fresh Outlets, Dublin; Blackrock Cellar.

Proprieta Sperino Costa della Sesia Rosso
Uvaggio 2012, 12.5%, €39.99

A Nebbiolo blend. Scented, floral, laced with herbs; lingering fruits; an utter delight.
Stockists: Terroirs; Red Island; 64 Wine; Red Nose Wine

Massolino Barolo ‘Parafada’ 2012, 14%, €79.99
Beautifully aromatic, with intense structured robust dark fruits and a firm dark finish. Ideally keep it five years-plus.

Stockists: Corkscrew; Green Man Wines; Blackrock Cellar.

Posted in: Irish Times

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Selbach Riesling 2014, Mosel

Selbach Riesling 2014, Mosel

10WGER002-Selbach-Riesling-InclineSelbach Riesling 2014, Mosel

11.5%

€13.95 for March 2017

Fresh crisp green apple fruits, with a zesty citrus edge and a nicely rounded finish. Delicate and delectable wine.

By itself or with mildly spicy Asian fish dishes; that lemon and lime acidity works really well with many Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese dishes.

I am a big fan of Riesling and was very happy when a friend served me a glass of this before dinner recently. Low in alcohol and refreshing with a touch of sweetness (as with many white wines these days) it is the perfect aperitif wine.

Available from O’Briens

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Madregale 2015, Rosso Terre di Chieti

Madregale 2015, Rosso Terre di Chieti

DSCF7358Madregale 2015, Rosso Terre di Chieti

12.5%

€11.05

Light fresh juicy cherry fruits and no tannins. There isn’t really much more to say. Very good simple everyday drinking and great value for money.

Pizzas, lighter pasta dishes, and white meats. Or by itself.

This is made by Cantina Tollo, a well-regarded, large co-operative in the Abruzzo region. Chieti is the largest of the four provinces that produce Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.

Available from Avoca; Blackrock Cellars; Fallon & Byrne; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Listons, Camden Street; MacGuinness Wines, Dundalk; Green Man Wines, Terenure; World Wide Wines, Waterford.

 

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