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Protocolo 2013 VdT de Castilla, Spain

Protocolo 2013 VdT de Castilla, Spain

Image€9 from O’Briens

An inexpensive light red wine with light dark cherry fruits and a hint of vanilla.

With pizzas, tapas and lighter dinners, or just by itself. It would make a great party wine too.

A perennial favourite with O’Briens customers, this is  a sort of not-Rioja; made by a Rioja producer with Tempranillo grapes grown outside the borders for the wine or from younger vines within. The label, once black and circular, is now white and oval. I cannot pretend that the wine will taste like the finest Gran Reserva Rioja; it won’t. But for €9 a bottle on current promotion, you cannot ask for more.

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Fossil 2013, Vale de Capucha, VR Lisboa, Portugal

Fossil 2013, Vale de Capucha, VR Lisboa, Portugal

IMG_4469 €16.95 from Green Man Wines, Terenure; Baggot Street Wines; Gibney’s, Malahide.

A light herbal nose, textured on the palate with peaches and a strong saline mineral element.

Drink with all manner of seafood.

Located eight kilometres from the Atlantic coast, the Vale de Capucha vineyards are maritime and humid. Pedro Marques aims for wines that reflect both climate and the limestone soils. His white wines are fascinating; textured and broad, with complex fruits. They are a world away from the aromatic Sauvignon Blancs that are so prevalent.  Warning: stocks are being eeked out as the producer has run out. Also available in Heron & Grey, Bastible, L’Ecrivan, Black Pig Wine Bar and other restaurants. If you can’t find it, seek out his other excellent white wine as featured in my blog of 11th March last.

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Guardoilvento Etna Rosso 2014, Italy

Guardoilvento Etna Rosso 2014, Italy

DSCF6789€26 from Green Man Wines, Terenure; Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, Dublin, Galway and Meath; Mitchell & Son, chq, Sandycove and Avoca, Kilmacanogue; 64wine, Glasthule.

A wine with amazingly fragrant aromas (worth buying for the nose alone) wonderfully elegant savoury fresh dark fruits, and a powerful finish. It has a fine-grained tannic structure that would suggest keeping it a few years, but I would happily drink it now. Brilliant wine.

Grown on the slopes of the world’s most active volcano. 100% Nerello Mascalese. Author John Szabo, in his great new book ‘Volcanic Wines’ says that wines grown on volcanic soils share ‘a common mouthwatering quality and savoury character….a sort of weightless gravity, intense, heavy as a feather, firm but transparent, like an impenetrable force shield of flavour that comes out of nowhere but doesn’t impose itself’. Sounds a little pretentious, but try this wine and you’ll see what he means.

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Roka from Liam & Sinéad Cabot

Roka from Liam & Sinéad Cabot

Roka from Liam & Sinéad Cabot

Sinéad & Liam amongst the vines.

Sinéad & Liam amongst the vines.

I have been writing about Roka, the Slovenian wines made by Irish couple Sinéad & Liam Cabot, for the last year or so. Earlier this year, I visited the ‘winery’ – a the garage underneath their house. True garagistes! See my blog of 9th July. Their wines also feature in my latest wine guide Wilson on Wine 2017.

Good to see then that Tamlyn Currin, on jancisrobinson.com, gives two of their wines, the Furmint and Blaufränkisch, scores of 17/20, higher than many top Bordeaux, Burgundy and other fine wines. The Laski Riesling gets 16.5/20.

Her notes are as follows:

Roka Furmint 2015

Riesling-like elegance, focus and rapier intensity on the nose. Pickled lime and ginger. Such a stunning depth of flavour that the hair on my arms stood up when I first tasted this. Salty and lime and wax and lanolin with the sweet-tang vibrancy of apricots picked straight off the tree. A little hint of green fig, and the ginger-root warmth (but not alcoholic heat) prickling through the palate. Rounded but so precise and with razor-edge definition. Cardamom-spiked lime peel lingers on the finish for a long time. (TC)

Roka Blaufrankisch 2015

Beautifully soft black-cherry and pot-pourri nose, so soft and lovely that you want to rub your cheek against it – if red velvet has a smell, this is it. Wonderful juicy intensity that explodes in the mouth with just a smoky hint of star anise and clove. Then a little crescendo of real biting spiciness – chilli and ginger and Szechuan pepper. Fine, tight, glossy tannins that fit the fruit like a second skin. Absolutely delicious. (TC)

 

Hats off to Liam & Sinéad!  All this for a mere €16.99 a bottle from Cabot & Co, Westport; No.1 Pery Square, Limerick; Grapevine, Dalkey; 64wine, Glasthule.

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A weekend’s drinking December 2016

A weekend’s drinking December 2016

DSCF7113

Aldi Exquisite Limoux Chardonnay 2015

Limoux seems finally to have taken off as an appellation, with several of the multiples now offering inexpensive versions. You can also find some excellent smaller domaines, such as Begude in O’Briens. This wine, made by the ubiquitous Jean-Claude Mas, has pleasant rounded apple and pear fruits, good acidity and a very subtle toastiness. For €9.99, excellent value.

 

Sartarelli Tralivio 2014, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

Sophisticated textured apricot and apple fruits with a touch of honey, held together nicely by a cleansing citrus acidity. Charming, stylish wine. The less expensive Verdicchio is also worth trying. £12.99/€18.75 from jnwine.com.

 

Rara Avis, Raúl Pérez, VdT de la Tierra de Castilla y Léon

Raúl Pérez has been one of the driving forces behind the renaissance of indigenous grape varieties in Bierzo and Galicia. Most of his wines are individual and brilliant. This wine is made from Albarín, a very rare local grape variety from Léon in northwestern Spain. It is not to be confused with Albariño. Developed wine (no vintage that I can see) with textured grilled hazelnuts and soft stone fruits. I don’t think it is commercially available in Ireland – mine was a gift/sample from wine importers Vinostito.

 

Silice 2014, Ch. Les Croisille, Cahors

Time was when all Cahors was firm and tannic. How things have changed; you can now come across plenty of juicy ripe wines that are ready to drink in their youth. Fabien Jouves seems to be one of the prime exponents. You can find his wines in Terroirs, Donnybrook and elsewhere. Marks & Spencer had a wine from Ch. Les Croisille for a year or two. This is a different cuvée, available from O’Briens at €15.95. Light juicy and fresh with crunchy dark fruits. Delicious!

 

Bourgogne 2014 ‘Le Chapitre’ Marchard de Gramont

Light, floral Pinot Noir with elegant dark cherry fruits and a slight earthiness on the finish. Good value at €19.65 from Karwig Wines in Cork.

 

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2012, Domaine Anne Gros

I bought this in 64wine, for around €35 I think. Anne Gros is one of the top growers in the Côtes de Nuits, with holdings in some of the top sites, including Richebourg, Echezeaux and Clos Vougeot. This wine is from a single vineyard, Concoeur, situated just above the village of Vosne-Romanée. I was a little disappointed at first, but this opened up nicely after half an hour. Pure fresh dark fruits, good acidity and clean length. Nice wine.

 

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Hot to trot: Warm cocktails to cheer up the jaded Christmas palate

First Published in The Irish Times, Saturday 3rd December, 2016

If you are tiring of the traditional mulled wine at Christmas, why not spice things up with a few different warming seasonal drinks? Some are so simple I would hesitate to call them cocktails, but all are certain to add some cheer on a cold winter’s evening.

Hot chocolate and Irish cream liqueur

I am not a fan of cream liqueurs, but I once used up an unwanted gift by adding a splash to my mug of hot cocoa. It was delicious. You have to use unsweetened cocoa powder or dark chocolate; drinking chocolate is too sweet. Drink with your loved one in front of the fire on a cold night.

Egg Nog

Traditional on both sides of the Atlantic. It can be made with cognac, bourbon, sherry or rum, depending on where you live and what you like. In this country, whiskey seems the natural choice. Don’t use your finest bottle here; a good blended Irish whiskey will do very nicely. You can add more or less spirit, or even serve it without alcohol. Egg nog is a little fiddly to make, although you prepare it in advance. There are those who recommend ageing it in the fridge for up to a week, but this might raise safety issues. A luxurious creamy cocktail that can pack a punch.

One litre of full fat milk, 225 grams sugar, 12 large egg yolks, 225 ml Irish whiskey (or more to taste) 250 ml cream. Whisk milk and sugar over medium heat until sugar has dissolved. Whisk egg yolks in a large bowl, then add the hot mixture in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over a low heat, stirring frequently for around 20 minutes until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Do not allow to boil. Strain into a bowl and add whiskey and cold cream. Cool and then refrigerate. Serve cold, garnished with grated nutmeg and, if desired, the whipped leftover egg whites.

Whiskey Mac

One of the oldest cocktails, but one of the most satisfying, providing you use good quality whiskey and a decent ginger wine. If you want to take it a step further, use a ginger liqueur (the Celtic Whiskey Shop offer several). Otherwise mix equal quantities of whiskey and ginger wine, adding ice if you wish. It can also be served hot like a toddy, by boiling hot water.

Hot Buttered Rum

A delicious and warming drink, perfect on cold winter’s evenings. 125 grams softened butter, 125 grams brown sugar (or 2 tablespoons maple syrup) 2 teaspoons grated orange zest, ½ teaspoon nutmeg, 125ml dark or golden rum, a litre of boiling water. Beat the butter with orange zest, brown sugar (or maple syrup) and nutmeg. Combine 2 tablespoons of the butter mix with 3 tablespoons of rum in a glass. Pour over boiling water. Serve with a cinnamon stick.

A Mulled Apple Toddy

This is a mix of mulled cider and an apple brandy toddy that I came up with one evening, although I am sure I am not the first to think of it. Gently heat a litre of good, fairly dry Irish cider with a strip of orange zest, or a slice of orange, a few cloves and a good spoonful of honey. The sweeter your cider, the less honey you will need. Once it comes to the boil, remove from the heat and add a generous measure of Irish apple brandy (both Longueville and Highbank produce very good examples) to taste. Garnish with a stick of cinnamon.

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Aldi Lot 18 Baden Pinot Blanc 2015, Germany

Aldi Lot 18 Baden Pinot Blanc 2015, Germany

Image 9Aldi Lot 18 Baden Pinot Blanc 2015, Germany

Neither of the German supermarkets offer much in the way of native wine. Baden, tucked away in the south-west corner of Germany, opposite Alsace, specialises in the three Pinots – Noir, Gris and Blanc, the latter known as Weissburgunder in Germany. All three can be very good. This Pinot Blanc is completely dry, full of luscious peach fruits cut through with a fine crisp acidity. At €13.99, it is expensive for Aldi, but still offers very good value.

Drink solo, or with lightly spiced Asian prawns or chicken.

 

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Albizu Tempranillo 2015, Spain

Albizu Tempranillo 2015, Spain

DSCF7103Albizu Tempranillo 2015, Spain

Available for €11.95-€12.95 from Mitchell & Son; Avoca Rathcoole; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Baggot St Wines; Blackrock Cellar; Corkscrew; Fallon & Byrne; Listons; MacGuinness; Green Man; 64 Wines; World Wide Wines, Waterford.

I have a weakness for unoaked (or very lightly oaked) Rioja. I love the lively aroma, the pure cherry fruits and the refreshing acidity. They come to together to form an easy-drinking but sophisticated wine, great for sipping alone or for drinking with a variety or red and white meats. This example, made by a Rioja producer, from grapes grown within the region, doesn’t actually have the name Rioja on the label, but it certainly tastes like it. This is a perfect example of the style. Worth buying in quantity for the season ahead.

 

 

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Saint Aubin ‘Le Banc’ 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

Saint Aubin ‘Le Banc’ 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

St. Aubin Le BancSaint Aubin ‘Le Banc’ 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

€39 from Cabot & Co. (cabotandco.com), Westport; No. 1 Pery Square, Limerick; Grapevine, Dalkey.

Magnificent classic white Burgundy with grilled hazelnuts, toasty new oak and ripe green apple fruit, cut through by plenty of zesty mineral acidity.

This calls out for your finest fish; black sole or turbot swimming in butter sounds appropriately grand. Alternatively, this would go perfectly with a starter of smoked salmon with your Christmas dinner.

Pierre-Yves Morey recently installed himself in a large modern winery on the edge of Chassagne-Montrachet. I recently tasted his white wines from 2015, a vintage he predicts will be great. They were wonderfully precise and supremely elegant with complex rich fruits. In the meantime, we can enjoy the wine above, which features in Wilson on Wine 2017.

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G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2011

G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2011

Image 10G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 2011

€78.99 from Baggot St. Wines: Jus de Vin, Portmarnock; Terroirs, Donnybrook; Corkscrew, Chatham Street.

 

Fragrant aromas of rose petals and violets; an intense palate of firm, elegant dark damson and cherry fruits, a slight spiciness and a long elegant tannic finish. Relatively approachable, but will certainly keep another five years or more. Beautiful wine.

 

If you drink it now, decant before serving with robust dishes; steak, beef and mushroom stew, roast game or an aged Parmesan cheese.

 

Vajra is a fairly new enterprise, set up by the energetic Aldo Vajra in 1972, the worst vintage in the 20th century. He is now assisted by his daughter and two sons. Over the years, Vajra has assembled a relatively large sixty hectare estate that includes prime vineyards in all three sub-regions of Barolo. The wines are wonderfully aromatic, with all of the authentic pure flavours of the Nebbiolo grape. The Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo (around €30) is well worth seeking out for earlier drinking.

 

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