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Irish Gin & Irish Tonic Water

Irish Gin & Irish Tonic Water

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 18th June, 2016

First the gin, then the tonic. Oisín Davis is one of the leading lights of the cocktail business in Ireland. I bumped into him at the Ballymaloe Litfest, and for the first time I can remember, he had a soft drink in his hand. The liquid in question was Poacher’s Tonic, Ireland’s first tonic water. All of these new Irish gins obviously need something to mix with, and Davis thinks he has the answer. Until now, you could only buy an Irish-made tonic syrup from americanvillage.com. Fever-Tree and other premium tonic waters have been hugely successful in the UK, so it was only a matter of time before someone came up with an Irish version.

The Poacher’s Tonic certainly went down well at the Litfest – supplies ran out the first evening, and an emergency dash had to be made back to the warehouse. It is made by Davis and partner Vaughan Yates from spring water drawn from Litterberg House in Co Wexford and bottled in nearby Enniscorthy.

“We wanted to make is as Irish as we could,” says Davis. “We got 150 kilos of Irish rosemary and shipped it to a perfumer in the UK, who extracted the rosemary essence. We use cinchona bark to make a natural quinine and add Florida orange and sugar beet for sweetness. It was a year in the making with all sorts of complications and experiments.” According to Davis, Poacher’s pairs best with gins that don’t have too much spicy coriander and cumin, and is less sweet than standard tonics.

Gerry Scullion of The Chocolate Factory has come up with his own very unique tonic water. “I make it from scratch using cinchona bark and other spices and a small amount of Irish lavender. It is also a water kefir, and far less sweet than the standard tonic (2 calories a bottle). I create the fizz by the addition of organic honey and bottle-condition for approximately two weeks.” The result is a quite delicious adult tonic, great by itself or with gin.

I received another bottle of Irish gin just after going to press with my last article. Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin is the latest creation of Pat Rigney, the man who came up with Boru vodka and Sheridan’s Irish Cream Liqueur. Made in his new distillery in Drumshanbo, it is aimed primarily at the export market, but already has good distribution here in Ireland.

If you fancy trying out anIrish G&T, the Irish Gin & Tonic Fest runs from June 20th-25th, where pubs, restaurants and hotels will be serving one or more of eight Irish gins with a tonic of their choice. See greatirishbeverages.com for further details.

DSCF6621Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin
43%
€49

A very different gin with a distinctive spiciness and refreshing herbs alongside the juniper.

Stockists: Widely available including Dunnes, O’Briens, Mulloy’s, select SuperValu.

Image 2 Poacher’s Tonic Water
€1.55 for a 200ml bottle

Light and refreshing, with lovely subtle hints of rosemary. Great with or without the gin.

Stockists: Drinkstore, D7; Gibneys, Searsons; Donnybrook Fair; Bradleys.

DSCF6631Herbel Crest Irish Tonic Water
€2 for a 200ml bottle

A beautifully refreshing dry tonic with a subtle herby touch.

Stockists; Whelehan’s; The Chocolate Factory,D1; The Drinkstore, D7; L Mulligan Grocer.

Posted in: Beer & Whiskey, Irish Times

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Domaine de la Chauvinière, Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie 2014

<strong>Domaine de la Chauvinière, Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie 2014</strong>

DSCF5570Domaine de la Chauvinière, Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie 2014
€13.95 (2nd bottle ½ price) from O’Briens

Muscadet is so much more interesting than Picpoul de Pinet, often called the Muscadet of the south, and currently very fashionable. Picpoul is a good crisp dry white wine. In the hands of a clever winemaker, it can be a little better than that, but most of those on offer come from one large producer. Muscadet on the other hand, is also be light, crisp and dry, but it can offer so much more. The really good ones (which sadly cost over €15) have a depth and complexity you will never find in a Picpoul. The Chauvinière is made by one of the best growers in the region. It has a lovely leesy touch, some lemon zest, and delicious light apple fruits. Perfect summer drinking, and great value for money.

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Les Collines 2013, Faugères, Domaine Ollier Taillefer

<strong>Les Collines 2013, Faugères, Domaine Ollier Taillefer</strong>

DSCF6703Les Collines 2013, Faugères, Domaine Ollier Taillefer
€14.85 from Wines Direct, Mullingar & Arnott’s, Dublin

Faugères is one of the lesser-known parts of the Languedoc in the south of France. The secret to the wines here lies in the ground. Parts of the region have deep schist soils that produce wines with a seductive perfumed savoury fruit, accompanied by a freshness that makes you want to take another sip. The wines are typically a blend of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache. The Les Collines is a very well-priced accessible wine. Ripe savoury red supple fruits with an appealing freshness. Try with barbecued lamb.

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Umberta, Cantina Viticoltori del Monferrato

<strong>Umberta, Cantina Viticoltori del Monferrato</strong>

DSCF6598Umberta, Cantina Viticoltori del Monferrato
12.5%
€20 from Sheridan’s Cheesemongers.

Delicious refreshing sour damson fruits, with a lovely lively acidity and a strong mineral streak. Perfect served coolish with fatty pork dishes, or a medium-strength firm cheese.

The back label simply says Vino Rosso. There is no vintage either. This small cantina, founded in 1998 by a small group of like-minded growers and winemakers led by Fabrizio Iuli, is dedicated to making high-quality Barbera in the Monferrato commune in Piemonte. They decided to leave the DOC, arguing they the authorities simply support large producers of average quality wine. These wines are excellent.

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Langhe Arneis 2014, Cantina Ascheri, Piemonte

<strong>Langhe Arneis 2014, Cantina Ascheri, Piemonte</strong>

Image 10Langhe Arneis 2014, Cantina Ascheri, Piemonte
€19.49from Marks & Spencer

A classic of the style, with quince and yellow fruits, plenty firm mineral acidity, and a dry finish. Drink with charcuterie or rich seafood dishes.

Arneis is a local Piemontese grape variety, and the name of the wine. The sandy soils of Roero are said to produce the best wines. This wine is from the wider Langhe area. I am very fond of Arneis; it has a cool, mineral quality and makes a pleasant change from many of the better-known grape varieties.

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Slovenia

I was enchanted by my first visit to Slovenia a decade or more ago and have trying unsuccessfully to return ever since. This is a beautiful country making some seriously good wines; sadly we do not see nearly enough of them in Ireland.
I arrived last night in the Jerusalem-Ormuz region, in the Eastern corner of Slovenia, right on the border with Croatia, and a short drive from Hungary and Austria.

This morning the sun was shining, so I got up early and had a relaxing walk amongst the vines.

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Whiskey aged in stout barrels

Whiskey aged in stout barrels

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday, 11th June, 2016

Irish craft brewers are fond of ageing their beers, usually stout, in casks previously used to age whiskey. The resulting beers can be very good, sometimes gaining a percent or two in alcohol, as well as flavour, from the wood. But what happens if the barrel is returned to the distiller and used to further age whiskey?

First out of the blocks on this were Jameson and Cork craft brewer Franciscan Well. ‘It all started in 2013 it started when Shane Long of Franciscan Brewery asked us for a dozen used whiskey barrels to make a special Christmas brew’, says David Quinn, head of Whiskey Science at Jameson . ‘We tasted the results and thought it was fantastic. He did a second batch in 2014, and we got a call asking us to take the barrels back, as he didn’t have the space to keep them. More on a whim, we decided to refill them with mature Jameson and left them for 4-5 months. We had a taste and were blown away. It came across as discernably Jameson, spicy, fragrant and fruity, but with other characters through the interaction with stout – coffee, cocoa and chocolate and hints of hop. They were all there at a level of intensity that complemented instead of dominating. The taste had a different complexion; a texture, a creamy mouthfeel a coating sensation we found fascinating’.

Jameson ran a pilot scheme in Dublin and Cork, and as with the stout, the shelves were cleared in a couple of weeks. In 2015, they started to lay down enough barrels to launch Caskmates abroad. Apparently it has gone down very well in the U.S. So much so that Jameson linked up with craft brewers in London and Brooklyn, supplying them with whiskey barrels to create their own limited edition beer, and then releasing a local unique Caskmates.

Jameson are no longer alone; back in March, Galway Bay Brewery launched 200 Fathoms, an Imperial stout aged in whiskey casks borrowed from Dublin’s Teeling Whiskey. Now the favour has been returned with a single cask release from Teelings of 200 Fathoms whiskey, aged in the stout casks. Another distiller has plans in the pipeline. Glendalough Whiskey gave a couple of barrels to Five Lamps brewery for their barrel-aged porter. The barrels were returned and filled with 10 year-old single malt. 400 bottles will be produced, available later this year in Dublin Travel Retail. I tasted it on a visit to the distillery; it was rich and full of chocolate. Lastly O’Haras have been working with Tullamore Dew for their (delicious) Leann Folláin stout, aged in whiskey casks. It seems only a matter of time before the favour is returned. For the moment, Tullamore DEW offer a whiskey aged in cider casks.

ImageMuldoon Irish Whiskey Liqueur
25%
€30.99

Whiskey infused with hazelnuts and toffee. Delicious sweet caramel and toasted nuts.

Stockists Celtic Whiskey; World Wide Wines and other specialist off-licences.

Image 1Jameson Caskmates Irish Whiskey
40%
€38

Scented fruity and mildly spicy; long and sweet with coffee, chocolate and subtle hops. Superb whiskey.

Stockists: widely available.

Image 2Teeling Whiskey Single Cask 200 Fathoms Irish Whiskey
46%
€85

Stockists: Exclusively from Teelings Distillery, Dublin 8.

Posted in: Beer & Whiskey, Irish Times

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Bergerac Blanc 2015, Mayne de Beauregard.

<strong>Bergerac Blanc 2015, Mayne de Beauregard.</strong>

Image 13Bergerac Blanc 2015, Mayne de Beauregard.
€11.79 from Marks & Spencer

Clean waxy yellow apple fruit with plenty of aroma and verve. Great value at €11.79 too.

A good all-rounder to drink with fish, seafood and lighter pasta dishes, as well as white meats.

Down in southwest France, in a large area that includes Bordeaux and Bergerac, they have always done things slightly differently. Here Sauvignon Blanc is always blended with Sémillon, a lesser known and very underrated grape variety. Sauvignon is fresh and crisp, whereas Sémillon is lower in acidity and broader in the palate. Blend the two together and you get the perfect combination, often much more interesting than a plain Sauvignon. This week’s wine, from Marks & Spencer, is a mix of 80% Sauvignon and 20% Sémillon from Bergerac.

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Dominio del Plata Terroir Series Malbec Cabernet Franc 2015

<strong>Dominio del Plata Terroir Series Malbec Cabernet Franc 2015</strong>

Image 4Dominio del Plata Terroir Series Malbec Cabernet Franc 2015
€15.99 from Marks & Spencer

The addition of 14% Cabernet Franc gives this medium-bodied wine a lovely savoury, slightly tannic bite, a nice contrast to the ripe blackcurrant fruits.

Perfect with your steak, or any other grilled red meat.

Susana Balbo is one of the leading winemakers of Argentina. For this wine she used grapes grown in Tupungato, part of the cooler Uco Valley south of Mendoza. The wines tend to be a little more perfumed and elegant.

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Fossil 2013, Vale da Capucha, Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal

<strong>Fossil 2013, Vale da Capucha, Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal</strong>

IMG_4469Fossil 2013, Vale da Capucha, Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal
€16.95 from Green Man Wines, Terenure; Jus de Vin, Portmarnock; Morton’s Ranelagh; Drink Store, D7; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street.

Delicious cool minty herbal aromas, and lovely rich peach fruits, opening out beautifully on the long dry mineral finish. There is a sightly salty touch to it. Lovely wine.

Drink with all manner of fish. I can see myself drinking this alongside a bowl of mussels, clams and other shellfish with a handful of herbs thrown in at the last minute.

I have written about Pedro Marques of Vale da Capucha before; he is one of the rising young stars of Portuguese winemaking. His wines, both red and white are captivating, and certainly worth seeking out. For the moment they are very reasonably priced.

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