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Les Collines 2013, Faugères, Domaine Ollier Taillefer

<strong>Les Collines 2013, Faugères, Domaine Ollier Taillefer</strong>

DSCF6703Les Collines 2013, Faugères, Domaine Ollier Taillefer
€14.85 from Wines Direct, Mullingar & Arnott’s, Dublin

Faugères is one of the lesser-known parts of the Languedoc in the south of France. The secret to the wines here lies in the ground. Parts of the region have deep schist soils that produce wines with a seductive perfumed savoury fruit, accompanied by a freshness that makes you want to take another sip. The wines are typically a blend of Carignan, Syrah and Grenache. The Les Collines is a very well-priced accessible wine. Ripe savoury red supple fruits with an appealing freshness. Try with barbecued lamb.

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Umberta, Cantina Viticoltori del Monferrato

<strong>Umberta, Cantina Viticoltori del Monferrato</strong>

DSCF6598Umberta, Cantina Viticoltori del Monferrato
12.5%
€20 from Sheridan’s Cheesemongers.

Delicious refreshing sour damson fruits, with a lovely lively acidity and a strong mineral streak. Perfect served coolish with fatty pork dishes, or a medium-strength firm cheese.

The back label simply says Vino Rosso. There is no vintage either. This small cantina, founded in 1998 by a small group of like-minded growers and winemakers led by Fabrizio Iuli, is dedicated to making high-quality Barbera in the Monferrato commune in Piemonte. They decided to leave the DOC, arguing they the authorities simply support large producers of average quality wine. These wines are excellent.

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Langhe Arneis 2014, Cantina Ascheri, Piemonte

<strong>Langhe Arneis 2014, Cantina Ascheri, Piemonte</strong>

Image 10Langhe Arneis 2014, Cantina Ascheri, Piemonte
€19.49from Marks & Spencer

A classic of the style, with quince and yellow fruits, plenty firm mineral acidity, and a dry finish. Drink with charcuterie or rich seafood dishes.

Arneis is a local Piemontese grape variety, and the name of the wine. The sandy soils of Roero are said to produce the best wines. This wine is from the wider Langhe area. I am very fond of Arneis; it has a cool, mineral quality and makes a pleasant change from many of the better-known grape varieties.

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Slovenia

I was enchanted by my first visit to Slovenia a decade or more ago and have trying unsuccessfully to return ever since. This is a beautiful country making some seriously good wines; sadly we do not see nearly enough of them in Ireland.
I arrived last night in the Jerusalem-Ormuz region, in the Eastern corner of Slovenia, right on the border with Croatia, and a short drive from Hungary and Austria.

This morning the sun was shining, so I got up early and had a relaxing walk amongst the vines.

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Whiskey aged in stout barrels

Whiskey aged in stout barrels

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday, 11th June, 2016

Irish craft brewers are fond of ageing their beers, usually stout, in casks previously used to age whiskey. The resulting beers can be very good, sometimes gaining a percent or two in alcohol, as well as flavour, from the wood. But what happens if the barrel is returned to the distiller and used to further age whiskey?

First out of the blocks on this were Jameson and Cork craft brewer Franciscan Well. ‘It all started in 2013 it started when Shane Long of Franciscan Brewery asked us for a dozen used whiskey barrels to make a special Christmas brew’, says David Quinn, head of Whiskey Science at Jameson . ‘We tasted the results and thought it was fantastic. He did a second batch in 2014, and we got a call asking us to take the barrels back, as he didn’t have the space to keep them. More on a whim, we decided to refill them with mature Jameson and left them for 4-5 months. We had a taste and were blown away. It came across as discernably Jameson, spicy, fragrant and fruity, but with other characters through the interaction with stout – coffee, cocoa and chocolate and hints of hop. They were all there at a level of intensity that complemented instead of dominating. The taste had a different complexion; a texture, a creamy mouthfeel a coating sensation we found fascinating’.

Jameson ran a pilot scheme in Dublin and Cork, and as with the stout, the shelves were cleared in a couple of weeks. In 2015, they started to lay down enough barrels to launch Caskmates abroad. Apparently it has gone down very well in the U.S. So much so that Jameson linked up with craft brewers in London and Brooklyn, supplying them with whiskey barrels to create their own limited edition beer, and then releasing a local unique Caskmates.

Jameson are no longer alone; back in March, Galway Bay Brewery launched 200 Fathoms, an Imperial stout aged in whiskey casks borrowed from Dublin’s Teeling Whiskey. Now the favour has been returned with a single cask release from Teelings of 200 Fathoms whiskey, aged in the stout casks. Another distiller has plans in the pipeline. Glendalough Whiskey gave a couple of barrels to Five Lamps brewery for their barrel-aged porter. The barrels were returned and filled with 10 year-old single malt. 400 bottles will be produced, available later this year in Dublin Travel Retail. I tasted it on a visit to the distillery; it was rich and full of chocolate. Lastly O’Haras have been working with Tullamore Dew for their (delicious) Leann Folláin stout, aged in whiskey casks. It seems only a matter of time before the favour is returned. For the moment, Tullamore DEW offer a whiskey aged in cider casks.

ImageMuldoon Irish Whiskey Liqueur
25%
€30.99

Whiskey infused with hazelnuts and toffee. Delicious sweet caramel and toasted nuts.

Stockists Celtic Whiskey; World Wide Wines and other specialist off-licences.

Image 1Jameson Caskmates Irish Whiskey
40%
€38

Scented fruity and mildly spicy; long and sweet with coffee, chocolate and subtle hops. Superb whiskey.

Stockists: widely available.

Image 2Teeling Whiskey Single Cask 200 Fathoms Irish Whiskey
46%
€85

Stockists: Exclusively from Teelings Distillery, Dublin 8.

Posted in: Beer & Whiskey, Irish Times

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Bergerac Blanc 2015, Mayne de Beauregard.

<strong>Bergerac Blanc 2015, Mayne de Beauregard.</strong>

Image 13Bergerac Blanc 2015, Mayne de Beauregard.
€11.79 from Marks & Spencer

Clean waxy yellow apple fruit with plenty of aroma and verve. Great value at €11.79 too.

A good all-rounder to drink with fish, seafood and lighter pasta dishes, as well as white meats.

Down in southwest France, in a large area that includes Bordeaux and Bergerac, they have always done things slightly differently. Here Sauvignon Blanc is always blended with Sémillon, a lesser known and very underrated grape variety. Sauvignon is fresh and crisp, whereas Sémillon is lower in acidity and broader in the palate. Blend the two together and you get the perfect combination, often much more interesting than a plain Sauvignon. This week’s wine, from Marks & Spencer, is a mix of 80% Sauvignon and 20% Sémillon from Bergerac.

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Dominio del Plata Terroir Series Malbec Cabernet Franc 2015

<strong>Dominio del Plata Terroir Series Malbec Cabernet Franc 2015</strong>

Image 4Dominio del Plata Terroir Series Malbec Cabernet Franc 2015
€15.99 from Marks & Spencer

The addition of 14% Cabernet Franc gives this medium-bodied wine a lovely savoury, slightly tannic bite, a nice contrast to the ripe blackcurrant fruits.

Perfect with your steak, or any other grilled red meat.

Susana Balbo is one of the leading winemakers of Argentina. For this wine she used grapes grown in Tupungato, part of the cooler Uco Valley south of Mendoza. The wines tend to be a little more perfumed and elegant.

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Fossil 2013, Vale da Capucha, Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal

<strong>Fossil 2013, Vale da Capucha, Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal</strong>

IMG_4469Fossil 2013, Vale da Capucha, Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal
€16.95 from Green Man Wines, Terenure; Jus de Vin, Portmarnock; Morton’s Ranelagh; Drink Store, D7; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street.

Delicious cool minty herbal aromas, and lovely rich peach fruits, opening out beautifully on the long dry mineral finish. There is a sightly salty touch to it. Lovely wine.

Drink with all manner of fish. I can see myself drinking this alongside a bowl of mussels, clams and other shellfish with a handful of herbs thrown in at the last minute.

I have written about Pedro Marques of Vale da Capucha before; he is one of the rising young stars of Portuguese winemaking. His wines, both red and white are captivating, and certainly worth seeking out. For the moment they are very reasonably priced.

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Morgon ‘Les Charmes’ 2014, Bret Brothers

<strong>Morgon ‘Les Charmes’ 2014, Bret Brothers</strong>

DSCF6709Morgon ‘Les Charmes’ 2014, Bret Brothers
€35 from Wines Direct, Mullingar & Arnott’s, Dublin.

Superb wine; fragrant, forward aromas of strawberries with an earthiness; light on the palate with intense

I would drink this with a plate of really good charcuterie. Salami and Beaujolais make a great match. But a pâté en croute sounds perfect.

I had a memorable visit to the Bret Brothers a few years back. They make a range of excellent age worthy white wines from their vineyards in the Mâconnais. This is new to me however; a red wine from the Beaujolais region. As with many of their wines, it is made from biodynamically grown grapes. Morgon is one of the top ‘crus’ of the Beaujolais, producing wines that can taste very like Pinot Noir when aged; and it is worth ageing the wines of Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent. This wine is expensive, but well worth it.

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My Favourites from the Marks & Spencer Press Tasting

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Marks & Spencer hold press tastings twice a year, usually with about 80 wines on show. There is always an eclectic range. This year it included wines from Uruguay, Brazil and Bolivia along with all of the usual wine-producing countries. My take on M&S is you pay a little more and get a little more in return. Certainly the range is better than their supermarket rivals. There were some sub-€10 wines, and these were fine, but as argued many times before, pay a little more, and you will be rewarded with a much better glass of wine. Below a short selection that will provide plenty of options for summer drinking.

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Graham Beck The Rhona Brut Rosé, South Africa €22.50

A very stylish fresh crisp dry rosé with clean raspberry and redcurrant fruits. Nice wine.

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Langhe Arneis 2014, Cantina Ascheri, Piemonte €19.49

A classic of the style, with quince and yellow fruits, plenty firm mineral acidity, and a dry finish. Drink with charcuterie or rich seafood dishes. I see O’Briens advertise the same wine at €17.45 though.

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Thymiopoulos Malagouzia 2015, Greece €13.79

I have written about this wine before, but I like the plump rounded easy ripe peach fruits and subtle acidity. Try it with herby or lightly spicy fish and chicken dishes.

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Bourgogne Blanc Les Femelottes 2014 Domaine Chavy Chouet €22.50
Classic white Burgundy from a producer in Puligny-Montrachet, with crisp citrus acidity, subtle grilled nuts, and medium intensity yellow apple fruits. With white meats. Bubble Brothers offer the same wine for €28.50.

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Mayne de Beauregard Bergerac Blanc 2015 €11.79
This is the sort of inexpensive French wine that I love – the red is pretty good too. A blend of waxy Semillon (20%) and racy Sauvignon gives a wine that is so much more interesting than a pure Sauvignon. Fresh, crisp, dry with waxy green apples.

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Colinas del Itata Old Vine Field Blend Muscat Corinto €14.99

Made by de Martino from a mix of Muscat and Corinto grown in a 110 year-old vineyard. It has classic grapey Muscat aromas and fruit, good intensity and bone dry finish. A fascinating piece of history for €15.

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Amalaya Blanco de Corte 2015, Salta €13.99

Amalaya are the people who own Colomé, the world’s highest vineyard in the same region. This blend of Torrontés and Riesling has always been a favourite of mine. Fresh crisp and beautifully fruity, with a bone dry finish. A great all-purpose wine, and great value too.

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Mayne de Beauregard Rouge 2015 €11.79
The red version of this wine is possibly not quite as good as the white, but it still offers great value. Cool chunky plum fruits, with some dry tannins on the finish. Right up my street, and a perfect everyday wine to go with all sorts of red and white meats.

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Cornelia Swartland Red 2014 €14.99
Both red and white, made by Adi Badenhorst, one of the new stars of South African wine, offer great value. The red has lifted fragrant aromas, medium-bodied spicy dark fruits, and a rounded finish. Nice wine.

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Palataia Pinot Noir 2014, Pfalz €14.79
German Pinot tends to be very expensive, the Palataia being an exception. This is a light fragrant elegant Pinot with a touch of caramel, red cherry fruits and good acidity. Drink cool over the summer months with salmon or tuna.

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Craft 3 Malbec 2015, Uco Valley, Argentina €14.99
The Uco Valley produces a more elegant juicy style of Malbec and this is a good example of the genre; deep colour, fragrant nose and lively ripe blackcurrant and loganberry fruits.

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Dominio del Plata Terroir Series Malbec Cabernet Franc 2015 €15.99

This is made by Susana Balbo, one of the leading winemakers of Argentina. I loved the mix of ripe blackcurrant and savoury fruits with nice slightly grainy tannins. Perfect with your steak, or any other grilled red meat.

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