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Sauvignon, but not as we know it.

Sauvignon, but not as we know it.

From the Irish Times, Saturday 23rd April, 2016

It has an unmistakable pungent aroma, making it one of the easiest grapes to recognise in blind tastings. We adore it in this country, but we are merely part of a worldwide love-in of Sauvignon Blanc. Whether it comes from Marlborough in New Zealand or Chile, we just cannot get enough of it. Plantings are spreading around the world to include many warm areas unsuited to this cool climate variety.

I suspect most wine drinkers like it as much for what it isn’t as for what it is; it isn’t too high in alcohol and it isn’t aged in new oak barrels. It is usually light, fresh and full of fruit. What is not to like? Nothing obviously.

However, drinking one wine all the time can get very dull. I have pointed out a few alternatives here before. My favourite would be Riesling, but every country offers their own version of crisp ’n’ dry.

But how do you make Sauvignon more interesting? One option is to plant it in a special place as they do, on chalky Kimmeridgian and Portlandian soils, in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé; the wines tend towards racy, flinty and mineral. A second possibility is to use a few tricks in the winery, such as wild yeasts, lees stirring and oak barrels, to add layers of complexity. If done well, as Greywacke and others have done in Marlborough, the wines are well worth trying.

There is plenty of Sauvignon in Bordeaux (where it is used for both dry and sweet wines such as Sauternes), Bergerac and other parts of southwest France. Here the tradition is to blend in some Sémillon and sometimes a dash of Muscadelle. The latter gives a lovely floral aroma and the Sémillon a plumpness that develops into a delicious toastiness with age.

All of the top white wines of Bordeaux, and there are some truly great wines, are made this way, with plenty of new oak barrels being used as well.

It is one of the only times where I enjoy Sauvignon in combination with new oak. Inexpensive Bordeaux Blanc, Bergerac Sec and other Sauv/Sem blends can offer fantastic value, and far more interest than many pure Sauvignon Blancs.

Western Australia also uses the same blend to great effect. A final alternative is to make it fizzy; there are now a number of sparkling Sauvignon Blancs available. I am not yet convinced.

I give one example of each style of Sauvignon; a lovely Bordeaux blend with 30% Sémillon, then a crisp mineral terroir-driven Sauvignon from Saint Bris (actually part of Burgundy) and a barrel-fermented, wild yeast wine from one of the new stars of South Africa, David Niewoudlt.

Image 3Ch Reynier Blanc 2013, Bordeaux
13%
€16-18

Nicely aromatic with lovely plump peach fruits.

Stockists: Baggot St. Wines; Corkscrew; Honest2Goodness.

goisot copyExogyra Virgula, Sauvignon de St. Bris 2013, Domaine Goisot
12.5%
€22-23

Stunning, energetic wine with a crisp minerality and cool refreshing green fruits.

Stockists: McCabes; Sheridan’s; Donnybrook Fair, Donnybrook; Jus de Vine; 64wine.

Image 2Ghost Corner Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Elim, South Africa
13.5%
€28

Delicious mouthwatering peach fruits, with a creamy texture.

Stockists: Blackrock Cellar; Donnybrook Fair, Malahide; On the Grapevine, Dalkey

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Anjou Chenin Blanc 2013, Lot12 small parcel, Aldi

Anjou Chenin Blanc 2013, Lot12 small parcel, Aldi

DSCF6495Anjou Chenin Blanc 2013, Lot12 small parcel, Aldi
13%
€12.99 from Aldi

I hesitated to make this a wine of the week, not because I didn’t enjoy it, but because I was afraid you wouldn’t. It is made by Ch. de Fesles, one of the top estates in this part of the Loire, and producers of some very good dry and sweet wines. You would expect to pay €20 and more for most of their wines. This wine is classic Loire Chenin Blanc, with a fragrant nose, followed by quince and green apples overlaid with honey and beeswax on the palate. It finishes bone dry. I enjoyed it, but it does have a fairly severe lean mineral streak and lots of citrus acidity. If you are used to off-dry Pinot Grigio, it may give you a jolt. But the price is great, so it is certainly worth trying, preferably with food; some kind of shellfish sounds good.

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Borsao Garnacha Seleccíon 2013, Campo de Borja

Borsao Garnacha Seleccíon 2013, Campo de Borja

DSCF6516Borsao Garnacha Seleccíon 2013, Campo de Borja
14.5%
€13.95 from Searsons, Monkstown

The label is fairly dazzling, and so is the wine. Campo de Borja produces large quantities of big ripe warming red wines, usually made from Garnacha. Along with Tempranillo from La Mancha, they represent some of the best value red wines available. Not just from Spain, but from anywhere. This is a classic of the style, with more fruit and intensity than most of the supermarket versions. Big, rounded and ripe with soft spicy strawberry fruits and a very decent supple finish. Great value for money, and perfect for barbecued meats.

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Cesconi Olivar, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Trentino 2012

<strong>Cesconi Olivar, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Trentino 2012</strong>

IMG_4684Cesconi Olivar, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Trentino 2012
13.5%
€32.99 from La Touche Wines, Greystones; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6; Wineonline.ie

The Cesconi wines generally combine rich almost opulent fruit with a lovely clean nervy acidity. It is a very attractive balanced style of wine that goes well with food but you can happily drink them solo. I tried this in La Touche Wines, my local wine shop. This wine is a single vineyard blend of Chardonnay (40%) Pinot Grigio (40%) and Pinot Bianco (20%). It has luscious apricot and peach fruits, some subtle spice and a fine crisp acidity. Nicely mature. Try it with chicken or possibly creamy white fish dishes.

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Capezzana Carmignano di Barco Reale 2014

<strong>Capezzana Carmignano di Barco Reale 2014</strong>

Image 1Capezzana Carmignano di Barco Reale 2014
13.5%
€22.99 from The Corkscrew; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock;
Sweeny’s, Dublin 11; Searsons, Blackrock; Grapevine, Dalkey;
Thomas’s, Foxrock.

This has been one of my favourite wines for many years; I love the clean refreshing note that makes it so easy to drink. Lovely vivid pure blackcurrants and dark cherry fruits. Captivating wine to serve with cold meats, pork and chicken dishes.

Capezzana is a lovely large family-owned and run estate in Tuscany. As well as producing some excellent wines and a great olive oil, there is a cookery school, a small hotel and a wine bar. If you go there on holiday, it is well worth a visit.

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A lighter weekend’s drinking

A lighter weekend’s drinking

Fewer bottles last weekend, mainly because I spent Saturday down at the West Waterford Food fest in Dungarvan. My first time, and a great event if you haven’t been.

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Simone Joseph Chardonnay Le Petit Moe 2014, Vin de France
12.5%
€13.99 from Searsons, Monkstown, The Drink Store, D7.

An attractive light refreshing crisp dry white, without any of those confected fruits you find in southern French Chardonnays. Nice well-priced wine, perfect by itself or with fish and seafood.

Ch. Sainte-Eulalie 2013 La Cantilene, Minervois La Livinière

14%
€21.70 from Karwig Wines, Carrigaline, Co. Cork.

Not cheap for a wine from the Languedoc, but still very good value. Delicious full-bodied wine crammed with swarthy dark fruit s, a touch of oak, and a long satisfying finish. Perfect with red meats.

Domaine Begude Esprit Pinot Noir 2014, VdP de Haut Vallée de l’Aude

12.5%

From down in Limoux, a lovely light piquant Pinot Noir. O’Briens usually bring it in, so hopefully it will appear over the next few months.

Givry 1er cru Servoisine 2013, Domaine Joblot
13%

I bought this, for around €35, from 64wine recently. Owner Gerard Maguire suggested I stash it away for a few years – advice I should have heeded. As he said, it is an excellent wine (imported by Burgundy Direct I think) but very closed and quite tannic for a Burgundy. It does however, have a wonderful unevolved nose, and masses of tight dark cherry fruits and good acidity on the palate. I decanted and enjoyed it.

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Sulphites in Wine

From The Irish Times, Saturday 16th April, 2016

Sulphur Dioxide & Wine

Look at the back label on any bottle of wine and you may be reassured by the lack of any added ingredients. Yet in a fascinating talk at last year’s Ballymaloe LitFest, wine writer Alice Feiring pointed out that there are no less than 70 permitted additives or treatments for wine. The only one that legally must be mentioned is sulphur dioxide, with the statement “contains sulphites”.

Sulphur dioxide (SO2) prevents oxidation in a wine and wards off harmful bacteria. All wines contain small amounts; it is a natural byproduct of fermentation. Most winemakers add further amounts either when crushing grapes or prior to bottling. White wines, which are more prone to oxidation, typically have more than red wines, and sweet wines, which can start refermenting, have the highest levels of all.

Medical science argues that SO2 does not cause most people any problems, but a small number will have a severe allergic reaction, hence the warning. Yet dried fruits typically contain far greater levels of sulphur and none of the bags in my local health-food shop carry any warning. Some argue it causes headaches but there is no evidence for this, although excess alcohol certainly does.

It is impossible to know if a wine is low in sulphur or not. Almost every wine will have natural levels above 10ppm and must carry the warning, including organic wines – SO2 is an organic compound and therefore permitted. So-called natural wines should have lower levels, but you cannot be sure. It is difficult for winemakers to measure levels of SO2 accurately, as some of it binds with other compounds and is harmless. It is only “free” sulphur that causes reactions.

Proponents of low sulphur wines argue that it dulls the natural terroir and flavour of a wine. Opponents say it prevents off-flavours and infection. In my experience it is young fruity red wines with good levels of acidity that work best with low sulphur winemaking.

Should we be concerned about sulphur? Probably not. Levels are far lower than in the recent past. Of greater interest are the levels of pesticides and fungicides used in producing grapes.

All of those lovely neatly manicured rows of vines, without a weed in sight, come at a cost. Last year I spoke to three growers whose fathers had died prematurely, due, they believe, to exposure to chemical sprays. All are now farming organically. This has been designated Natural Wine Month by importer Le Caveau. See realwinefair.com for details of events. This week, four low-sulphur wines.

DSCF6450Gran Cerdo 2014, Spain
13%
€14.50

Definitely on the funky side; barnyardy and earthy.

Stockists: 64wine; Baggot St Wines; Blackrock Cellar; Fallon & Byrne; Corkscrew; Le Caveau; Donnybrook Fair. Listons; World Wide Wines; Green Man.

DSCF58987 rue de la Pompe, Mas Coutelou, Vin de France
13.5%
€16.50

Full of dark cherry fruits with a very attractive earthiness.

Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; 64wine, Glasthule; Green Man, Terenure.

DSCF6461Kalkundkeisel 2014 Preisinger, Weinland, Austria
12%
€22.00

Fresh mineral nose and palate with light nuts and elderflowers. Bracing and refreshing.

Stockists: 64wine, Glasthule; Clontarf Wines; Green Man, Terenure.

DSCF6459Miro Fuga Mundi 2007, Jeruzalem, Slovenia
13%
€42

A sweet wine with nothing added at all, fermented for seven years in barrels. Nuts, figs and treacle in a fascinating delectable wine.

Stockists: Cabotandco.com

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A few snapshots from the Le Caveau tasting.

A Few Snapshots from the Le Caveau tasting.

Wine importer Le Caveau held a great tasting during the week. There were many, many highlights, including wines from Morocco, Georgia and England. Below a very brief look at three producers. More to follow.

IMG_4734
Wiston Estate & Sugrue Pierre, West Sussex

Dermot Sugrue makes some of the best sparkling wines in England; the Wiston Blanc de Blancs (€53) is a delight, complex with brioche, racy acidity and delicious plump fruit. The vintage Rosé 2011(€62) has matured very nicely showing lovely ripe raspberry fruits. Dermot’s own wine, the Pierre Sugrue ‘The Trouble with Dreams’ is a wonderful creamy complex wine, which made the Champagne next door seem a little ordinary, no mean feat as this was Philipponnat Royale Réserve Brut.

Ch. Turcaud, Bordeaux

Stéphane Le May makes that wonderful thing; inexpensive Bordeaux. I love his red wine (€14.95), a classic light juicy dry Bordeaux, but it was one of his white wines, the Cuvée Majeure that stood out; the 2014, a blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sauvignon Gris, the remainder Sémillon fermented in new oak is a superb balanced rich textured dry white. A bargain at around €19.
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Tour des Gendres, Bergerac

Guillaume de Conti, cousin of winemaker Luc de Conti was there to present these marvelous wines, amongst my all-time favourites. Both red and white offer great value. The Bergerac Rouge Classic 2014 (€15.15) was light fresh and fruity; the Cuvée des Contis Blanc fresh and textured, and the superb elegant Bordeaux lookalike, Gloire de Mon Père 2012, astounding value at around €22.

IMG_4715

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Haut Marin 2015, Côtes de Gascogne

<strong>Haut Marin 2015, Côtes de Gascogne</strong>

Image 1Haut Marin 2015, Côtes de Gascogne
11.5%
€13.95 from Searsons, Monkstown; La Touche, Greystones; The Drink Store, Manor St; Market 57, Clifden; Nolan’s, Clontarf; MacGuinness, Dundalk; Next Door, Kimmage.

Light, aromatic and bursting with crisp apple, exotic fruits and citrus. Great on its own or with white fish dishes.

We had this as an aperitif at a wine dinner hosted by La Touche Wines in Greystones last week. The event, in Theatre Lane restaurant, was great fun, and the food and wines both very good. The white wines of Côtes de Gascogne, generally a blend of Columbard, Ugni Blanc along with other varieties can smell and taste uncannily like a Sauvignon Blanc; aromatic, fresh and fruity. They can offer incredible value.

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Ch. Janoy Bellevue 2014, Bordeaux

<strong>Ch. Janoy Bellevue 2014, Bordeaux</strong>

Image 2Ch. Janoy Bellevue 2014, Bordeaux
€14.95 from Whelehan’s Wines, Loughlintstown

Very attractive modern Bordeaux with generous plum fruits and light soft tannins. With roast meats (red and white) or firm cheeses. Very good value.

I started out in the wine trade at a time when everyone drank red Bordeaux and have always retained a fondness for what I call ODC – ordinary decent claret; unpretentious, medium-bodied wine with plum and blackcurrant fruits and some drying tannins. They make for perfect everyday dinner wines. This is one such example.

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