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Teelings – A quick tour of Dublin’s Newest Whiskey Distillery.

The Liberties, close to the very heart of Dublin, was once known as a centre for distilling. The tradition died out over the last two centuries, but recently construction began on no less than four new distilleries within a four kilometre radius. I visited Teelings this morning. Two very dynamic brothers, sons of a very dynamic father, these guys are making some very good innovative whiskey. Some pics to get started with tasting notes on their produce to follow.

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The Rivals – just around the corner.

 

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 Last minute preparations.

 

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The first line-up, followed by…

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Thank you Alex Chasko for the tour.

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New World brings us back to Chardonnay

Did Chardonnay ever go away and, if so, is it now making a comeback? If the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) crowd were merely trying to get us to try out a few other grape varieties, they have certainly succeeded. In turn the BTC (Back to Chardonnay) party, of which I am a paid-up member, was merely pointing out that Chardonnay produces some of the world’s greatest white and sparkling wines. I hope we can all agree that good Chardonnay is great and the bad stuff is awful and move on a little in the debate.

Talking to importers of New World wine I get the distinct impression Chardonnay never really went away; there is a large swathe of wine drinkers who have continued to buy it even if all of the noise was about Sauvignon Blanc. At the bargain-basement end there are plenty of sickly-sweet wines with very pumped-up, confected flavours, but at €10-€15 you can find plenty of well-made, crisp, dry and fruity Chardonnay from every part of the globe.

If you need convincing, try Aldi’s Lot 2 Chardonnay (€12.99) from Tasmania, a fresh crisp dry wine, made by Wakefield, one of the leading estates of Australia. The New World has learned that masses of new oak and rich buttery wines are not always what the public wants. If anything the criticism is that some have gone too far the other direction, offering us wines stripped of all flavour and character.

Today I concentrate on Australia and New Zealand, which have had very different relationships with Chardonnay. Both now appear to be making world-beating wines made from this variety. At one time Australian Chardonnay was big and brash; how times have changed. Now the best wines come from the cooler regions: the Mornington Peninsula and the Yarra Valley, both near Melbourne, and Tasmania all produce some excellent wines as can the Adelaide Hills in South Australia and parts of Western Australia, the Margaret River in particular.

New Zealand has been hugely successful with Sauvignon Blanc, but we have seen precious little Chardonnay in Ireland. That may be about to change. New Zealand is making some excellent Chardonnay, often in regions responsible for the best Pinot Noir, such as Martinborough, Waipara and Central Otago, although Neudorf in Nelson and Kemeu River up north are two of the best.

The best Chardonnay I tasted on a visit to New Zealand earlier this year was the 2013 Ata Rangi Craighall Chardonnay. This will arrive in Ireland shortly. A close second was a Puligny-like Felton Road 2013. James Nicholson has something of an embarrassment of riches when it comes to Chardonnay; they are waiting for their allocation of Felton Road Chardonnay, but in the meantime customers can try the excellent Neudorf from Nelson and the Dog Point from Marlborough. I would also love to see Pegasus Bay return; they make some fantastic Chardonnay

What should you look for in a top Chardonnay? The best are nuanced yet sumptuous wines, medium-bodied with a lightly creamy texture, possibly with a hint of spicy oak, but never to the exclusion of fruits – green apple in cool climates moving through to pears and then peaches in warmer regions. Chardonnay coats the entire mouth with flavour. The three wines selected this week are all expensive. But then their equivalents from Burgundy would certainly match them for price, if not make them look reasonable.

I know some wine drinkers are reluctant to spend money on white wine, possibly because they see it as something to sip with a starter before moving on to the main course. I tend to save my best white wines, usually a Chardonnay or Riesling, for those times when I am cooking really good fish or chicken as a main course – black sole drenched in butter, turbot, and of course salmon paired with a top-notch Chardonnay will turn dinner into a real feast.

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Irish Cider: how d’you like them apples?

Ireland’s craft brewers received a deserved boost from the Minister for Finance a few years back when he granted them a 50 per cent rebate on excise duty. This allows smaller brewers to compete with the larger producers on a relatively even playing field. The results speak for themselves; the number of small craft breweries has shot up. However, our craft cider producers are currently excluded from this, and are therefore at a huge disadvantage to other similar drinks. Real cider is, like wine, fermented rather than brewed, and therein lies the problem.

Under EU law, the minister cannot simply lower the duty on fermented products. However cider is taxed in two bands, over 2.8 per cent alcohol and over 6 per cent alcohol. The Government could lower the current (extortionate) higher rate of duty; at the moment in a good vintage, such as 2014, a cider will ferment naturally to about 7 per cent. I would have thought this group was even more deserving than our craft brewers.

This is exactly the kind of business the Government should be helping; they are rurally based, use locally grown produce (genuine cider is made from 100 per cent Irish apples) and can substitute their cider for imported products. They may rescue many of our orchards with their unique stock of heritage apples. Let us hope the minister extends the lower duty rate in his next budget. In addition to this, while restaurants are permitted to serve bottled beer to those eating a meal, only those with a full on-licence can offer cider. Again it appears we are discriminating against our indigenous producers. Surely this too should be changed.

Changing tack, if you are getting married this summer, why not serve something Irish alongside, or instead of wine? Three of the more enterprising Irish producers now offer their ciders in very smart-looking 75cl bottles, perfectly suited for larger events. Throw in a few Irish beers and some genuine local apple juice for those not drinking alcohol, and you have a thoroughly Irish occasion. You could even finish off the evening by offering a glass of the excellent Longueville House apple brandy as well as whiskey.

James O’Donoghue of Longways produces an elderflower frizzante cider with summer celebrations in mind. James had been supplying a very large local cider producer with apples for 18 years before starting up his own cider-making business. His partner is John Maher, who worked as product development manager with C&C. Their aim, says James, was “to give it a taste profile similar to that of white wine”. They couldn’t get the flavours they were looking for from pure cider, but came across a locally produced elderflower extract. This was added to the cider once fermentation had finished. “It was quite amazing the change it brought to the product,” according to James. Craigies and Cockagee have been featured here before.

Angus Craigie and Simon Tyrrell started with the more traditionally styled Ballyhook Flyer, which has won many fans among more seasoned cider drinkers. The Dalliance is made in a very different style, lighter and fresher; the latest vintage is the best so far.

Mark Jenkinson has been producing his wonderful unique Cockagee for a few years, using traditional varieties grown in Meath. This keeved cider is naturally carbonated, unfiltered with a natural sweetness. I frequently enjoy cider with food but any of these three would make a very different and enjoyable drink to have at your wedding. Two craft cider producers also make other apple-based products. David Llewellyn makes a cider vinegar and an excellent balsamic cider vinegar, in addition of course to Irish wine – the current 2013 vintage is his best yet. Con Traas of The Apple Farm, who makes some of the best apple-based soft drinks, has a beautifully presented living culture Irish Cider Vinegar that tastes amazing.

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Days two and three in Burgenland

Days two and three in Burgenland

 

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Tasting in Burgenland

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Best label all day

 

 

Roman Baths in Carnuntum

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Carnuntum

 

Roman bedroom

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 And the sitting room

 

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Dorli Muhr introduces Carnuntum wines

 

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Moving on to the Gruner Veltliner tasting in a Viennese Palace

 

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 100 Gruner Veltliners including some stunning wines.


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Tasting Gruner in Vienna

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A day in Burgenland

UK journalist(O. Clarke esq.) and some very dodgy wine.

Tasting Zweigelt

 

New tasting room in Donnerskirchen

Out on the Neusiedlersee

 

 

Weingut Nehrer, Leithaberg

 

 

 

 A Pork Starter

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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MARKS & SPENCER SPRING TASTING MAY 2015

Following yesterday’s Aldi summer tasting, today Marks & Spencer held a far larger event (theirs entitled Spring tasting though), with around one hundred wines, beers, ciders and soft drinks on show. I tasted the majority, ignoring one or two categories. Are M&S different/better than the rest? Certainly in the UK they position themselves above all of the other supermarkets bar Waitrose (and Wholefoods I suppose). I am a fan of their foods generally (and some of their clothes) although occasionally you find yourself paying over the odds for something fairly ordinary. But overall I feel you pay a little more and receive a little more in return. Their wine selection is certainly eclectic and they put a huge amount of effort into sourcing well-made wines, advising producers through their team of experts, some of who are winemakers themselves.

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There are very few other tastings in Dublin that include wines from Greece, Turkey, Israel, India, Brazil, Macedonia, Uruguay as well as all the other usual wine-producing countries. M&S also offer a decent range of fine wines, their own label beers and ciders. I did not have time to taste the beer and cider yesterday. My comments on supermarket wines (see my post on Aldi) being made to a formula still apply to a certain extent here; I always think I detect a certain similarity of style throughout the M&S range. Having said that they certainly offer a greater diversity than any of their rivals. They tend to be a little more expensive, but overall I think the wines are better. They can offer also wines at very competitive prices and some of these are very good value for money. There were far too many wines to go through everything, but I am sure I will feature more in the Irish Times. In the meantime, here are ten of the most interesting wines.

 

Image 24Tikves 2013 Macedonia

12%

€10.99

 

When did you last taste a Macedonian wine? Or a blend of Smederevka and Rkaciteli? This has soft easy slghtly floppy melon and grape fruits and a dry finish. Interesting, decent value for money and a welcome change from all of those Pinot Grigios and Sauvignon Blancs.

 

 

Image 21Mâcon-Villages 2014 Domaine de Rochebin

12.5%

€14.29

 

A happy hunting ground for Burgundy lovers, the Mâconnais produces some great inexpensive Chardonnays. This is one such example, with its green apple fruits aligned nicely with some crisp fresh acidity and a good lingering finish. A great all-rounder for white meats and richer fishy dishes.

 

 

 

Image 20Réserve du Boulas Laudun Côtes du Rhône 2014

13.5%

€13.29

 

A delicious wine that could be mistaken for a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Aromatic and forward, with rich broad plump apricot fruits tempered with a wet-stone minerality. In need of food.

 

 

Image 2Charles Back Stonedance Roussanne 2014

14%

€15.49

 

Textured yet elegant with very attractive spicy nectarine fruits. A very interesting and enjoyable wine.

 

 

 

ImageLas Faleras Tinto 2014, Utiel-Requena

12.5%

€8.79

 

Made from the Bobal grape variety, this is a great value easy glugger with soft plum fruits and light tannins on the finish.

 

 

 

Image 1Palataia Pinot Noir 2013, Pfalz

13.5%

€14.79

 

Fragrant, with lovely soft light spicy cherry fruits with warming alcohol and no tannins. Dangerously easy to drink.

 

 

 

Image 19Les Voiles de Paulilles 2013 Collioure

13.5%

€17.49

 

A big powerful structured wine with masses of cool dark fruits, light spice and a long firm quite mineral finish. Good full-bodied wine to drink with red meats.

 

 

 

Image 22Syrah 2013 Vin de pays de l’Ardèche

12%

€11.99

 

From the ever reliable Cave de Saint Desirat in the northern Rhône, a very attractive light fragrant Syrah with tangy sweet/savoury fruits, good acidity and a tannin-free finish. Great value for money.

 

 

Image 23Primo de Conti Rouge 2012, Bergerac

13.5%

€13.99

 

From the excellent organic Tour des Gendres estate in Bergerac, this has very attractive blackcurrant fruits, overlaid with some toast and cedarwood, and light tannins on the finish.

 

 

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Here’s how to make your own G&T

With the right combinations of herbs, spices and alcohol, it’s possible to make a passable gin and tonic

The ingredients for making your own gin and tonic
The ingredients for making your own gin and tonic

Sat, May 23, 2015, 05:47

We all have a creative instinct and mine tends towards things that I can place in my mouth. Over the years, I have tried my hand at various cheeses, yoghurts, kefirs, sausages, hams, kimchis, preserved lemons, chutneys, marmalade, salt-pickled cucumbers, cabbage, radishes and various other edibles.

More recently, I have turned to drink. While researching Irish gin, I came across a blog in the Guardian by writer and forager Andy Hamilton that included recipes for gin and for tonic water. Hamilton began foraging at the age of eight, inspired by the Australian television series Bush Tucker Man, making chickweed salad, and then nettle soup for his parents. He started making alcoholic drinks as a student. “I made a load of elderflower champagne, 180 litres. It lasted a year and half and I ended up hating it. But it set me on the road to making my own booze.” Author of Booze for Free, and Brewing Britain, Hamilton is now experimenting with cocktails made from foraged herbs, flowers and weeds which will feature in his forthcoming book Wild Booze and Hedgerow Cocktails – you can help fund this through his fascinating blog, theotherandyhamilton.com.

Hamilton says that making your own booze is easy and great fun. “I start out with existing cocktails and ingredients and try to make my own versions, substituting with foraged stuff where possible. I wanted to make my own Campari, but there is one ingredient only grown in the Caribbean; I am currently looking for an alternative. I have been making my own vermouth for a while. It seems complicated, as you have to infuse about 10 different things, but actually it’s really easy. I’ll make it up by grabbing a bottle of wine and add a few infused spirits – I have at least 10 on the go at any time. It sounds pretentious, but it is my flavour library.”

His favourite drink at the moment is gin flavoured with foraged Alexanders, although he is also adding sage to a few things at the moment – “just put it in vodka for a real toffee flavour”, he suggests. He even made his own Buckfast recently, adding that it tasted just as bad as the genuine article.

I tried my hand at the two recipes on these pages. My own gin was easier and more successful than my tonic water. Both were a strange pale brown/yellow colour, as they had not been filtered the way commercial products are. The gin was very good, full of juniper, citrus, with a light herbal note, probably from the lavender and rosemary.

The tonic on the other hand was far too sweet for my taste. I crushed some of the allspice berries before adding them, making it too earthy and spicy. The next time I make it, I will cut down on the sugar and add less allspice.

I did, however, manage to find a very good homemade tonic. I came across Claire Davey of the America Village Apothecary (americanvillage.com) in Galway through an article by John McKenna in the health section of this paper.

Not only did Claire kindly supply me with a bottle of her tonic syrup, she also sent samples of her other syrups, bitters and cocktail mixes. These are foraged where possible and sometimes seasonal too, using herbs, flowers and vegetation. Her tonic and my gin made an excellent combination, full of lively, zesty citrus underpinned by complex notes of herbs.

I also recently came across Irish forager, chef and nature guide Mary Bulfin from Co Offaly. Otherwise known as Wild Food Mary (see wildfoodmary.com), she is responsible for the delicious wild beech leaf liqueur that three of Ireland’s Michelin star restaurants now serve or use in their desserts. I enjoyed it lightly chilled as a digestif.

Caught up with the spirit of the thing, I used my second bottle of vodka to create three of my own flavoured spirits. My lemon vodka is very good, and will make an interesting addition to cocktails. The cucumber and dill has very intense, heavy cucumber flavours, and could make an interesting ingredient in gravadlax. Strangely, the dill was less obvious – I was hoping for a Danish aquavit.

These two were simple to make. Simply add the desired ingredients to the vodka in a clean Kilner jar and leave for a week or two, tasting every now and again.

Chocolate vodka has quite an online following. There are plenty of recipes that include chocolate bars, Mars being the most popular. Some suggested dishwasher vodka, made by placing a sealed bottle with chocolate or boiled sweets in the dishwasher and running a full cycle. Apparently, the heat dissolves the chocolate or sweets into the vodka.

I melted my chocolate in a bain marie, gradually adding the vodka. As I am not a fan of sweet things, I used a dark chocolate with 72 per cent cocoa solids. It tasted a bit too bitter, so I added a few teaspoonfuls of Claire Davey’s Pine Syrup No. 1, which worked very well. The result was not unlike a boozed-up chocolate sauce. I suspect it would work very well with whiskey, as proven by Baileys and various other cream liqueurs. However, I am reluctant to waste a good bottle of whiskey on the experiment.

One website suggested that I freeze the vodka. It turned solid, and on defrosting, remained a gel-like substance, not unlike a very pumped-up chocolate mousse.

Most wine people look on homemade wine with a certain distain, usually with good reason. I strongly suspect distillers will frown on my efforts in a similar way. My gin was certainly not as complex or refined as the Irish gins I featured here a few weeks ago. However, it is a delicious drink and I find it more interesting than some of the cheaper gins on the market.

Homemade gin
750ml vodka (preferably 50% ABV)
2 tablespoons juniper berries (or more if you like lots of juniper flavour in your gin)
1/4 tsp fennel seeds
1/4 tsp whole allspice
1/4 tsp coriander seeds
4 cardamom pods
2 peppercorns
1 torn bay leaf
A small sprig of lavender
A larger sprig of rosemary
Small piece of dried grapefruit peel (no pith)
Small piece of dried lemon peel (no pith)

A Mason/Kilner jar
Muslin or cheesecloth

Tonic Syrup 
Whipping up a batch of tonic water is fairly easy. The hardest part is finding all the ingredients, but a trip to a herbalist or a quick online search should furnish you with all you need.

1lt water
500g sugar
Zest and juice of 2 limes
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Zest and juice of 1 orange
28g cinchoa bark
28g citric acid
1-4 sticks of lemongrass
2-4 cardamom pods
10 allspice berries
Soda water

You will need
An accurate small scales
A large saucepan
A wooden spoon
Funnel
Small sieve
Muslin/cheesecloth
A bottle or two

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My take on the Aldi summer tasting.

My take on the Aldi summer tasting.

I went to the Aldi summer tasting yesterday. Held in Coppa Café in the RHA Gallery, it was a very manageable event, made up primarily of a selection of their core year-round listings with a few once-off limited edition specials. According to Ed Kerrigan, Aldi Ireland wine buyer, they will be doing more of these in the future. For instance there were 30,000 bottles of their very good Lot 2 Australian Chardonnay to share between the UK and Ireland.

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I believe that most inexpensive supermarket wines (and most of the Aldi wines are amazingly cheap) these days are drinkable, but rarely exciting. Wine companies have the technical ability to manipulate grapes, grape juice and wine throughout the winemaking process, so the completely undrinkable gut-wrenching stuff of yesteryear has disappeared. It has been replaced by a host of soft rounded sweetish wines with confected fruit and little by the way of character or interest. Some are better than others, and they do offer something to drink over dinner at a very cheap price. But overall I would prefer to pay a little bit more for a better wine (and yes I do buy wine as well as receiving samples). It would be interesting to see how these wines would fare if minimum pricing is introduced. I also wonder what would happen if the EU does finally introduce mandatory ingredient labelling – according to wine writer Alice Feiring there are more than sixty additives and treatments permitted in winemaking. It is not only the cheap wines that receive manipulation, but it seems logical that they require more intervention.

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This is not a direct criticism of Aldi wines; I believe that they handle this end of the market quite well. Amongst the 35 odd wines tasted yesterday, I did come across a few that I thought were good value. In addition to those mentioned below, I have also praised the Lot 2 Tasmanian Chardonnay at €12.99.

 

WHITE WINES

Aldi EC GaviAldi The Exquisite Collection Gavi 2014

12%

€7.49

 

Decent fresh crisp dry wine with waxy green apple fruits.

 

 

 

 

Aldi Albarino Rias BaixasAldi The Exquisite Collection Rías Baixas Albariño 2014

12%

€9.49

 

Made by Martín Codax, one of the largest producers in the region, this has plenty of pear fruits with lemon curd and zest. It seems to finish quite sweet, but ok at the price.

 

 

 

 

Aldi EC Picpoul de PinetAldi The Exquisite Collection Picpoul de Pinet 2013

13%

€9.99

 

This is made by Jean Claude Mas, who supplies a huge range of wines to various supermarkets, as well as producing some quite up-market wines from the Languedoc. Quite plump and rich (as with many Picpouls these days – what happened to the lighter Muscadets of the South?) with clean pear and melon fruits.

 

 

 

Aldi EC Limestone Coast ChardonnayThe Exquisite Collection Limestone Coast Chardonnay 2013

13.5%

€8.49

 

Light ripe plump red apple and melon fruits, with no off-notes. Decent value.

 

 

 

RED WINES

 

Ch Marot Bellevue 2013, Bordeaux

12.5%

€7.99

 

The 2012 vintage was a little too light, but this is better. I have a weakness for slightly scrawny, dry Bordeaux (it all depends what you were brought up on) and this certainly fits into that category; it has very light blackcurrant fruits, good acidity and a slightly herby note. I would drink this cool over summer with cold meats and charcuterie.

 

Aldi EC Cabernet de CabernetThe Exquisite Collection Cabernet de Cabernet 2014

15.5%

€8.99

 

Another wine from Jean Claude Mas. Decent juicy blackcurrant fruits with some classic Cabernet pencil shavings and grainy tannins on the finish.

 

 

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Sheridan’s Irish Food Festival 2015

I spent a very pleasant few hours at the Sheridan’s Irish Food Festival in Meath yesterday. I would love to have stayed longer as there was a lot going on, but sadly, I had plenty of chores waiting for me back home.

 

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The highlight of the day was a raw milk tasting. We worked our way through four cow’s milks, made from different breeds, a sheep’s milk, a goat’s milk and even buffalo milk, all raw and untreated. The producers gave a quick talk about their milk and its attributes. For cheese it is all about fat levels apparently. Frank Shinnick of Fermoy Natural Cheese gave a great talk on the healthy attributes of raw milk – it is only a short time since the Government was trying to ban it. Apparently we need to drink milk with A2 beta casein that, some people believe, helps those with eczema, asthma and lactose intolerance. I enjoyed all of the milks – the goat’s milk was not early as ‘goaty’ as you would expect. Marion Roeleveld of Killeen cheese said that for some reason, pasteurized goat’s milk has a stronger flavour. Most of the producers do not generally produce raw milk, keeping it for the all-important business of cheese making.

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Once this was over, I headed off to buy some cheese. For the last twenty years, I have had a personal addiction to sheep’s cheese and Ossau-Iraty, a brebis from the Pyrenees in particular. I came across it at a wine and food fair in the UK, and have always bought it when possible since. In recent years it has become more popular; both M&S and Tesco sell it, and Sheridan’s generally have a selection. Yet I have only ever come across one Irish sheep’s cheese; strange given the number of sheep we have, and the popularity of sheep’s cheese in France, Spain Italy and Greece. Séan and Deirdre FitzGerald in Co. Clare have made Cratloe Hills for around two decades now. I hadn’t seen it for a while, so I was delighted to find a stand with Séan and his cheese there. I also came across Lorraine Cahalan who makes Cáis na Tíre in Terryglass. I bought a piece of each and conducted a taste test including a French raw milk cheese bought from Sheridan’s last week in the lineup. The competition was a bit unfair – I went for the lighter version of the Cratloe (they have a mature version too) but both Irish cheeses had that lovely firm sweetness you get in good sheep’s cheese. The French was still the best for me, but my wife and daughter both preferred the Irish cheeses, finding the brebis a little too powerful. I find sheep’s cheese a good match for most red wine – although this may be just an excuse I have made up to allow me indulge in my two favourite vices.

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I also bought some Boyne Valley Blue, made from goat’s cheese, the only Irish blue goat’s cheese? That was delicious, with a certain similarity to some of the Portuguese versions that I have tried. I also sampled the blue cheese spread from Cashel Blue – a great product (blue cheese and cream, can’t go wrong?) but some people might be put off by the grey/brown colour.

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I bumped into David Llewellyn, producer of all things wonderful from apples, including a cider, various apple juices, a syrup, a wonderful vinegar and a balsamic apple vinegar. He showed me his new Perry – a delicious fresh dry pear cider with about 6% alcohol. I also sampled Jane Russell’s bratwurst and sauerkraut – both very good.

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As well as the cheeses, I came home with a bottle of O’Cléirigh Virginja American Pale Ale, the first beer from a new local craft brewery, and only bottled that morning. It was very good, with a nice hoppy bite but well balanced. I also bought some Macroom flour, cakes for my mother, a collar of free-range Tamworth pork, some raw milk from Crawford’s Farm and a nice bag of salad.

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