Dao Quinta de Saes « Wilson on Wines

Four Portuguese red wines to try this summer

Posted by John Wilson on September 9, 2022

First published in The Irish Times Saturday 30th July, 2022

Many of you will be heading off to Portugal on holiday this summer; some may even be reading this article on your digital Irish Times in Portugal. Either way, make sure you take time to explore the wonders of Portuguese wine. The quality and range have increased massively over the last decade, with some truly innovative producers and scores of unique wines. In most cases, growers have eschewed the well-known international grapes and instead relied on Portugal’s own impressive array of indigenous varieties. This all makes for a veritable feast of distinctly Portuguese wines.

The three best-known regions for red wine are Dão, Alentejo and the Douro. Broadly speaking Dão is cooler and produces more fragrant elegant wines, while Alentejo, in the hot interior, is a great source of full-bodied ripe reds, although there are exceptions. The Douro, famous for Port, has recently gained a reputation for some very exciting table wines. Wines from the hot, arid terraces tend to be concentrated and powerful, but some producers have sought out old vineyards in higher cooler vineyards and the resulting wines are lighter and fresher. I am a big fan of the wines of Dão. While serious at the top end, less expensive versions are often delightfully light and gloriously fruity.

Even if you can’t make it to Portugal, there is plenty of choice at every price here in Ireland. At entry level, Aldi and O’Briens have led the way with a variety of pretty good, well-made wines. Aldi has three white wines, the Arinto (€7.99), Vinho Verde (€6.99) and the Alvarinho (€8.99). The Alvarinho is worth the extra euro. As well as a rosé (€7.99), they have two pretty good reds; the Specially Selected Portuguese Douro Reserva below and the Animus Douro (€7.99). O’Briens has a good range, including the ever-popular Porta 6, often promoted down to less than €10. In addition to this, a number of Irish importers have sought out some of the best boutique wines, so good independent wine shops should have an interesting selection in the €15-25 range.

The three most important grapes for the Douro and Dão are Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Franca. The best-known is Touriga Nacional, which brings ripe dark fruits, spice and at times tannic structure to wines. Tinta Roriz (also known as Aragonez in Alentejo) is the same grape as Spain’s Tempranillo. Touriga Franca is lighter and more fragrant than the previous two and brings elegance to the blend.

Portuguese white wines are every bit as interesting as the red, but that is for another week. Today three great wines from Dão and a sub-€10 Douro from Aldi.

Aldi Specially Selected Mimo Moutinho Douro Reserva 2019

13.5%

€9.99

Medium to full-bodied with earthy plums and dark cherries. Some light tannins kick in on the finish. Try it with a gourmet burger, meat or vegetarian.

From Aldi

Rótulo Dão 2018, Niepoort

13%

€19

This charms with its delicious, sweet-sour plum fruits, freshly ground black pepper and lively acidity. Also available in a three-litre bag-in-box for €58 — equivalent to €14.50 a bottle. Try it with grilled belly of pork, or charred hispi cabbage.

From Liston’s, D2; Drinkstore, D7; Avoca, D4 and Rathcoole; Donnybrook Fair; Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown. Three-litre bag-in-a-box from Pinto Wines, D9; Redmonds, D6; Brindle, D8.

Quinta de Saes 2018, Dão, Alvaro Castro

13%

€19

Delectable light to medium-bodied smooth ripe dark fruits that glide effortlessly across the palate. Try this with a grilled pork chop or a cauliflower gratin.

From 64Wine, Glasthule; Kelly’s, D3; Green Man Wines, D6; Ardkeen, Waterford.

Quinta dos Carvalhais Dão Touriga Nacional 2018

13.5%

€29.99 — €31.99

Fragrant and supple with very seductive ripe dark forest fruits, thyme and subtle notes of wood. The finish is both smooth and refreshing. Try this with lamb cutlets or a herby tomato and bean stew.

From The Corkscrew, D2; Baggot Street Wines, D4; Martins Off Licence, D3; Ely Wine Store, Maynooth; Wineonline.ie.

Tags: Aldi Specially Selected Mimi Moutinho, Dao Quinta de Saes, Douro, Niepoort, Portuguese red wine, Quinta dos Carvalhais Dão Touriga Nacional 2018, Rótulo Dão 2018, Touriga Nacional

Posted in: Irish Times

Wine importers explore beyond the beaten track

Posted by admin on October 10, 2019

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 21st September, 2019

Over the next few months you can expect to see many new and interesting wines arrive on the shelves of your local wine shop.

Around this time of year, many importers refresh their portfolio, dropping non-performers and introducing new wines. Their enthusiasm and ability to ferret out new gems deserves recognition.

Over the next four months you can expect to see many new and interesting wines arrive on the shelves of your local wine shop. I would urge you to move off the beaten track a little and experiment. This week this space is dedicated to four very different wines; the only uniting theme is that they are made from lesser-known grapes.

Friulano has an interesting recent history; it was known as tocai friulano until the 2006 vintage. Then the Hungarian government won a legal battle in the European Court of Justice, which accepted that consumers might confuse the name with their legendary but unrelated dessert wine called tokaji. The Hungarians also managed to prevent Alsace wines being labelled tokay d’Alsace instead of pinot gris, and Australians from using the term tokay for their magnificent stickies.

A relative of sauvignon blanc, friulano is an underrated grape known as sauvignon vert or sauvignonasse elsewhere; the wines are generally less aromatic than sauvignon blanc but with more textured fruit. Chile has quite large plantings, but most are found in northeast Italy, including Friulli, from where it gets its name.

Ken Forrester is regarded by many as the king of chenin blanc in South Africa. He was one of one of the first to recognise the potential of this grape, the most widely planted variety in South Africa, to make high-quality wine. Since then, many have followed. South African chenin blanc is a completely different beast to those from the Loire, typically with richer-textured opulent fruits, and well worth trying out. They are great food wines with richer fish and chicken dishes.

Freisa is another lesser-known Italian variety, this time red and exclusively Piemontese. It is often described as “challenging”, a polite term for weird and sometimes undrinkable. It can be dry or sweet, still or fizzy. Traditional versions were often sweet to mask the tart acidity and swingeing tannins. Good modern versions such as the very enjoyable one below have light tannins and good acidity, balanced nicely by delicate sweet-sour fruit. I certainly enjoyed my bottle.

Dão is a region and not a grape. Once the source of inexpensive and fairly average wines, it now makes some of the best wines of Portugal, both red and white. The climate is temperate and the soils sandy over granite. Whatever the reason, I find the wines an ideal mix of ripe fruits, good acidity and light tannins; great to serve with all kinds of food, and usually very reasonably priced. Quinta de Saes is made from a blend of equal quantities of tinta roriz, touriga nacional, alfrocheiro and jaen, all indigenous Portuguese grapes.

Friulano 2018, Volpe Pasini, Friuli Colli Orientale

12.5 per cent, €15.50

Fresh and fruity, with textured rounded pears, bitter almonds and good clean acidity. A great aperitif, or with cold meats.

From: Wines on the Green, Dublin 2, celticwhiskeyshop.com; Blackrock Cellar, Co Dublin, blackrockcellar.com; Sweeneys, Dublin 3, sweeneysd3.ie

Freisa d’Asti Secco 2015, Tenuta Olim Bauda

13.5 per cent, €24.95

Lifted raspberry aromas and elegant raspberry and rosehip fruits, with light drying tannin and a pleasant tartness. Different and very delicious. Try it with a mushroom risotto.

From: Mitchell & Son, Dublin 1, and Sandycove, Co Dublin, and at Avoca, Kilmacanogue, Co Wicklow, and Dunboyne, Co Meath; mitchellandson.com

Old Vine Reserve chenin blanc 2018, Ken Forrester Vineyards, Stellenbosch

13.5 per cent, €17.95

Medium- to full-bodied with textured peaches and apricots, a touch of spice and good cleansing acidity. Great with mild creamy curries, chicken korma or Cape Malay chicken curry.

From: O’Briens, obrienswine.ie

Quinta de Saes Tinto 2016, Dão

13 per cent, €18.99

Classic Dão flavours of sweet-sour dark cherries, blackberries and damsons. A very moreish refreshing red wine with the acidity to cut through fatty foods. Try this one with porchetta or a roast of pork.

From: Kellys, Dublin 3, kellysofflicence.com; Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3, clontarfwines.ie; Deveneys, Dublin 14; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6, greenmanwines.ie; Crafted, Bennettsbridge, Co Kilkenny

Tags: Dao Quinta de Saes, Freisa d'Asti Olim Bauda, Friulano Volpe Pasini, Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc

Posted in: Irish Times