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TWO TOP DROPS FOR THE WEEKEND

Posted by on March 6, 2016

Is spring here yet? I am never really a fan of bigger more alcoholic reds, but once the weather starts to warm up a little, I quickly switch to lighter wines. Last weekend I met up with one of my favourite producers of red wines, Matthieu Baudry of Domaine Baudry in Chinon. It was at a tasting organised by the Knockranny House Hotel and Cabot & Co, both based in Westport. It was a brilliant tasting, followed by an excellent dinner (Seamus Commons being one of the best chefs in the country). I also gorged myself on one of the best collections of Rieslings in the country (see www.cabotandco.com) including those of Klaus Peter Keller. The dry Riesling below is excellent, and the Kirchspiel is magnificent. Sadly it costs around €50 a bottle.

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Klaus Peter Keller Dry Riesling 2013, Rheinhessen
€20.99

Light and refreshing but with wonderful piercing concentrated lightly honeyed peach fruits. By itself or with plain shellfish.

Available from Cabot & Co. (www.cabotandc.com) ,On the Grapevine, Dalkey, and No1 Pery Square, Limerick.

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Domaine Baudry Chinon Les Granges 2014
€18.99

Crunchy free-flowing and fresh juicy redcurrant fruits in a lively but very enjoyable wine. Serve it cool, but not chilled, with charcuterie.

Available from Cabot & Co. (www.cabotandc.com) ,On the Grapevine, Dalkey, Listons, Camden St, Donnybrook Fair, Malahide, Red Island Wines, Skerries, Market 57, Westport and No1 Pery Square, Limerick.

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Graf Josef Grüner Veltliner 2013, Niederösterreich, Austria

Posted by on February 26, 2016
Graf Josef Grüner Veltliner 2013, Niederösterreich, Austria

IMG_1624Graf Josef Grüner Veltliner 2013, Niederösterreich, Austria
12.5%
€14.99

Available from Donnybrook Fair; Gibneys, Malahide; Hole in the Wall, D7; Market 57, Westport; No.21 Off licences; Coopers, Cahir; Shannon Knights, Limerick.

Light and refreshing with peaches and grapefruit zest, finishing bone dry. Great on its own or with fish and lighter white meats.

I was a little concerned by the vintage when I received this sample; however, the Graf Josef was showing no signs of fading away. In fact, I tried the 2009 vintage at a recent tasting and t was still very much together. This is, I think, the least expensive Grüner Veltliner on the market, and in most vintages, it offers great value.

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Brezo de Grégory Pérez 2014, Bierzo

Posted by on February 25, 2016
Brezo de Grégory Pérez 2014, Bierzo

IMG_1623Brezo de Grégory Pérez 2014, Bierzo
12.5%
€18.50

Available from 64wine, Glasthule, Sheridan’s Cheesemongers

This is an enchanting fruit-filled wine with plump melons and pears as well as a touch of the exotic. There is a lovely lanolin texture on the palate, underpinned by a refreshing mineral streak. Perfect with all kinds of seafood, white meats and salads, but I would fancy it with a few plump scallops. Brilliant wine.

This is made mainly from the Godello grape, with a dollop of Doña Blanca. Godello is the grape behind Valdeorras, another delicious wine from north-west Spain. It is every bit as good, if not better, than Albariño.

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Golden Valley Grasevina 2014 Pozega Valley, Slavonija, Croatia

Posted by on February 19, 2016
Golden Valley Grasevina 2014 Pozega Valley, Slavonija, Croatia

Image 3Golden Valley Grasevina 2014
Pozega Valley, Slavonija, Croatia
13%

€14.79 from Marks & Spencer

Floral, with unusual but attractive spicy melon fruits, good acidity and a clean finish. Interesting well-made wine. Drink on its own, or with herby fish dishes.

This wine is made from the Grasevina grape, the Croatian name for Welschriesling. You may not have heard of it, but it is widely grown across central Europe, the Balkans, and Italy. It is typically used to make sweet wine, but can make very gluggable dry white wines too.

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Crazy Creatures Gruner Veltliner 2014, Malat, Kremstal

Posted by on February 18, 2016
Crazy Creatures Gruner Veltliner 2014, Malat, Kremstal

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Crazy Creatures Grüner Veltliner 2014, Malat, Kremstal
12%
€18.95

Light, fresh, clean, lean green apple fruits with a touch of spice. Michael Malat suggests it as a breakfast wine; I would say lunch. Perfect sipped solo or with shellfish. There is a series of Crazy Creatures labels, signifying the fun ‘pop and go’ nature of the wines.

The Austrians were in town last week, and I tasted a fantastic array of scintillating white and red wines. The Austrians don’t really do cheap, but they don’t really do bad wine either; there was hardly a dud in the entire tasting. Grüner Veltliner is the national specialty; it ranges in style from crisp and dry to rich and textured. Either way, the wines are great to sip on their own, and are one of the most food-friendly wines of all.

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Prova Regia 2013, Arinto, VR Lisboa, Portugal

Posted by on February 12, 2016
Prova Regia 2013, Arinto, VR Lisboa, Portugal

IMG_1562Prova Regia 2013, Arinto, VR Lisboa, Portugal
13%
€13.95

Stocked by a large number of independent wine shops and off-licences.

I have been enjoying this wine on and off for many years. Plump tropical fruits with pineapples and peaches, and a good fine crisp acidity. If you are tiring a little of Sauvignon Blanc, this is the perfect replacement. Drink on its own, or with fish. Arinto is widely grown in various regions of Portugal. The grapes retain a good acidity even in hot climates.

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TOP DROP THIS WEEK – TWO WINES FROM TURKEY FLAT

Posted by on February 11, 2016
TOP DROP THIS WEEK – TWO WINES FROM TURKEY FLAT

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I have been enjoying the wines of Turkey Flat from time to time for twenty years now. In the 90’s, they always had a wonderful raw power and concentration, yet were never over the top. They seem to have been tamed a little these days, but they are still excellent classic Barossa Valley wines with real character and depth. The Shiraz is a benchmark Barossa, highly regarded, but also quite expensive at around €45. These two very tasty blends are more affordable.

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Butcher’s Block White 2013, Turkey Flat, Barossa Valley
14%

€21.99 from Ardkeen, Waterford; LaTouche, Greystones; Matson’s, Grange & Cork; Sweeneys, Glasnevin.

Made from a Southern Rhône-style blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, this wine has attractive plump nectarine and peach fruits; it is medium to full-bodied, but not too powerful, and has a refreshing crisp acidity. This would go nicely with grilled white fish, chicken (or turkey!) and lighter pork dishes.

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Butcher’s Block Red 2013, Turkey Flat, Barossa Valley
14.5%

€21.99 from Ardkeen, Waterford; LaTouche, Greystones; Matson’s, Grange & Bandon, Cork; Sweeneys, Glasnevin; Corkscrew, Chatham St.

As with the white above this is a Southern Rhône blend of red grapes; Shiraz, Grenache and Mataro. I am a big fan of Barossa reds provided they are not over-oaked or over-ripe. This wine manages to offer power and body without ever seeming overdone, A lovely rich full-bodied red with ripe dark plum and blackcurrant fruits that with a sprinkle of spice and a solid backbone. It stood up well to Fuchsia Dunlop’s recipe for Szechuan beef stew and grilled lamb chops the following night.

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A BIG FAT CHARDONNAY

Posted by on January 29, 2016
A BIG FAT CHARDONNAY

Image 29Bodegas Fabre Montmayour Reservado Chardonnay 2014, Mendoza, Argentina
14.5%
€14.95 from Whelehan’s Wines, Loughlinstown

I was bemoaning the lack of big rich buttery Chardonnays in my piece in the Irish Times last week, when this wine appeared. David Whelehan promised an old-style ‘Dolly Parton’ Chardonnay. He was half-right; it is a powerful full-bodied wine with lots of tropical fruits, some oak and a touch of butter too. But it is actually more than that; this is a well-made wine, with good acidity and balance. The oak is there but doesn’t overwhelm and the quality of the fruit is pretty good. I can see it going very nicely with chicken and richer fish dishes.

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Ma’d Tokaji Dry Furmint 2013

Posted by on August 28, 2015
Ma’d Tokaji Dry Furmint 2013

DSCF606113.5%
€19.95

Available from Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown

This is lovely; slightly bitter orange peel with plump peaches and a touch of honey, cut through with a strong mineral streak. Delicious dry wine.

I could see this working well with pork, possibly with fruit – either belly or a chop sounds about right.

Dry Tokaji tend to get overlooked in favour of the sweet versions, but they can be very good. The best often have a hint of Chenin Blanc with their honeyed note and mineral acidity, alongside some mouthwatering stone fruits.

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